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Few ? New rtek user. Base maps?

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Old 10-20-16, 08:39 PM
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Any help/comments welcome

First off car is:
88 Turbo
Stock turbo not ported
550/550 injectors
Stock fuel pump
Full emissions delete
Aftermarket Air filter
Cork sport downpipe to 3" midpipe/cat selfie with stock mufflers
WILL BE running 93 always.

Cold start? Currently with emissions removal the car likes to idle low when cold and not unless I press the throttle a little. I didn't get to go through the idle settings yet because the Palm wouldn't stay connected,but according to the manual it will be as if I'm adjusting the screw and resistor under the hood? But can I also adjust according to coolant temp? It also says I can use the old resistor for other sensors,any examples?

Also,obviously I have the preset to 550/550. With this tune can I get on the road and start making some logs? Or should I adjust my fuel and timing beforehand ?

Are there any links that aren't dead that will show me examples of adjusting my timing and fuel ? Thanks for reading
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Old 10-21-16, 08:40 PM
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Welcome to tuning an 80s car!

Biggest things I'd be concerned about are keeping boost in check (port the hot side), and knowing your AFR (put a wideband in your downpipe).

For idle, I don't think the RTEK will help stabilize it. The RTEK removes accelerated warmup entirely (high idle when cold). The settings it provides are:

A: The mixture screw (variable resistor), which only adjust fine steady state idle mixture and...
B: Cranking fuel, which only affects cranking. You can pull a lot of fuel here to get quick starts without flooding when the motor is hot.

Since the RTEK replaces the variable resistor, you can use it as an input. Best thing to use it for is +5V wideband input to log your AFR.

The RTEK only tweaks the stock fuel map, so you already have the "base map" for a stock 550/550 car. The car should drive pretty good without adjustments unless you are boosting like crazy. You really need a wideband to start making useful changes to the map.

The stock timing map is aggressive at high RPM. I like arghx's timing maps ( New boost-based timing maps - RX7Club.com ). Since its a boost-based map, you have to get in there and enter every value. It's a long tapping session.

Personally, I haven't deviated from these timing maps since I lack the instrumentation to make informed adjustments, and because boosted rotaries do not gain lots of power from aggressive timing.

For now, you can use the RTEK to log your boost to make sure it is controlled, and you can log your injector duty cycle to make sure you are not maxing out those injectors. And probably punch in a boost-based timing map, which won't hurt.
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Old 10-22-16, 08:20 AM
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Originally Posted by ColinShark View Post
Welcome to tuning an 80s car! Biggest things I'd be concerned about are keeping boost in check (port the hot side), and knowing your AFR (put a wideband in your downpipe). For idle, I don't think the RTEK will help stabilize it. The RTEK removes accelerated warmup entirely (high idle when cold). The settings it provides are: A: The mixture screw (variable resistor), which only adjust fine steady state idle mixture and... B: Cranking fuel, which only affects cranking. You can pull a lot of fuel here to get quick starts without flooding when the motor is hot. Since the RTEK replaces the variable resistor, you can use it as an input. Best thing to use it for is +5V wideband input to log your AFR. The RTEK only tweaks the stock fuel map, so you already have the "base map" for a stock 550/550 car. The car should drive pretty good without adjustments unless you are boosting like crazy. You really need a wideband to start making useful changes to the map. The stock timing map is aggressive at high RPM. I like arghx's timing maps ( New boost-based timing maps - RX7Club.com ). Since its a boost-based map, you have to get in there and enter every value. It's a long tapping session. Personally, I haven't deviated from these timing maps since I lack the instrumentation to make informed adjustments, and because boosted rotaries do not gain lots of power from aggressive timing. For now, you can use the RTEK to log your boost to make sure it is controlled, and you can log your injector duty cycle to make sure you are not maxing out those injectors. And probably punch in a boost-based timing map, which won't hurt.
Wideband/boost/water temp are the only gauges I have currently.The wideband has an output I wasn't sure how to wire it into the ecu correctly so I left it alone.

And thanks for answering I know how the factory idle worked and the accelerate warm up was already removed. I wasn't sure if there was a table for water tempvsrpm I could tweak with.

Also I'll be sure to check that map,even if i don't use its good to have a solid reference.

Edit: after checking out that thread on my pc I feel like an idiot haha. That's exactly what I was looking for,but the app on my phone wasn't showing all the images
Also another stupid question,how do I set the palm to view psi vs timing instead of load,does it have to be connected to the ecu first? Thanks

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Old 10-22-16, 04:33 PM
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Ok got the palm set to timing vs boost. Now one last question. Do I have to punch in all the numbers with it hooked up to the car or I can do it seperately then just load them in.
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Old 10-23-16, 02:10 PM
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I'm having issues with connecting because the cable. And searching online a serial cable for this Palm tx is impossible to find.
If I buy a usb to serial can I just use that to connect the palm to the ecu instead?
So it would be
palm>hotsync with male end usb>female to female usb>usb to serial.
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Old 10-23-16, 08:14 PM
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There isn't an easy way to do it off-car. Once you get the map punched in, back up the palm data to a PC for safe keeping. You'll be able to "reflash" later.
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Old 10-23-16, 08:29 PM
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Originally Posted by ColinShark View Post
There isn't an easy way to do it off-car. Once you get the map punched in, back up the palm data to a PC for safe keeping. You'll be able to "reflash" later.
Figured it out when I spent 2 hours entering in timing maps lol
But now the palm won't connect,ordered a entirely new one with a serial cable,when I get the new palm will I have to re enter maps or will the ecu send the data back to it? Also if battery is disconnected will the ecu lose its tune and go back to stock?
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Old 10-24-16, 09:09 PM
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The map is in the RTEKs EPROM chip, I believe, so your maps should persist through palm changes and battery disconnects.
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Old 10-25-16, 02:10 PM
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Originally Posted by ColinShark View Post
The map is in the RTEKs EPROM chip, I believe, so your maps should persist through palm changes and battery disconnects.
Good to know

Took it out for a test drive earlier,only hit maybe full throttle at most,boost didn't come close to 10 psi and wideband was close to 12-13. Having an issue with the brake system so I really had to pay attention to the road.
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Old 10-26-16, 11:39 AM
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If the cold idle is really annoying you, reinstall the thermowax and BAC valve. Those are not "emissions" items (even though they are sold in the blockoff plate kit), they help keep your engine from stalling when cold.

It's kind of a weird Rx-7 thing to delete an idle air control valve/BAC valve. You don't see people modding other older platforms doing it often. There is almost zero benefit to it. You can even put the BAC valve back on and eliminate the water hose to it if you don't want to deal with it.
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Old 10-26-16, 04:24 PM
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Originally Posted by arghx View Post
If the cold idle is really annoying you, reinstall the thermowax and BAC valve. Those are not "emissions" items (even though they are sold in the blockoff plate kit), they help keep your engine from stalling when cold. It's kind of a weird Rx-7 thing to delete an idle air control valve/BAC valve. You don't see people modding other older platforms doing it often. There is almost zero benefit to it. You can even put the BAC valve back on and eliminate the water hose to it if you don't want to deal with it.
If I had one laying around I would,car is going to be garaged for the winter anyways so cold starts shouldn't be much more of an issue for me.
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