Rtek 750 / 1680 question HELP
03-25-10, 01:50 AM
#26
Thats kinda what I was thinking.... if the correction is +/- 37%...
(1-.37) x 1680 = 1058 cc
So the even on the "720" setting you're getting 338 cc extra regardless . How could u do anything but run rich? If you need that much fuel up top, thats fine, but it looks like running pig rich everywhere else is just a fact of life w/ those injectors.
Also, how would switching to the 550/720 setting possibly help to overcome this problem?
What about adding additional injectors? like 4x720 w/ 2 550's ?
(1-.37) x 1680 = 1058 cc
So the even on the "720" setting you're getting 338 cc extra regardless . How could u do anything but run rich? If you need that much fuel up top, thats fine, but it looks like running pig rich everywhere else is just a fact of life w/ those injectors.
Also, how would switching to the 550/720 setting possibly help to overcome this problem?
What about adding additional injectors? like 4x720 w/ 2 550's ?
03-29-10, 10:14 AM
#28
where i live we have HUGE changed in barometric pressure because of the change in weather we get all the time. to my understanding if we get a huge storm system, a heat wave or a cold front, as we often do here. it would throw off my map, but by how much? i have no idea i dont drive in the crazy weather here heheheh
she only sees sunshine and warm weather.
either way. Rtek is awesome to play with and there are so many ways to use it. i just was posting about what i know.
please post up your findings!
03-30-10, 12:59 AM
#29
so i did a test and tune last night and my super rich spots are gone... my lowest fuel cuts are from 5600-6200 rpm or so at 6, 8, 10 psi... and are down to -34% and my afr's are all in the 11's now its time to rent the local dyno and start doing some 4th gear pulls... i really want to upgrade my wastegate tho... my ebay 60mm POS wastegate is varying my boost from 10-6-9-4-10-4-9 and so on.... really not steady at all, i want a tial or a cool name brand one for i know it really works and keeps my boost at a certain boost at WOT...
ps i increased my atp preset to be at 5600 feet altitude... and i live at 40ft altitude, in the san francisco bay area
ps i increased my atp preset to be at 5600 feet altitude... and i live at 40ft altitude, in the san francisco bay area
03-30-10, 03:06 PM
#30
has anyone had any experience with this throttle body???
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...WA%3AIT&ih=022
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...WA%3AIT&ih=022
03-30-10, 10:49 PM
#31
so i did a test and tune last night and my super rich spots are gone... my lowest fuel cuts are from 5600-6200 rpm or so at 6, 8, 10 psi... and are down to -34% and my afr's are all in the 11's now its time to rent the local dyno and start doing some 4th gear pulls... i really want to upgrade my wastegate tho... my ebay 60mm POS wastegate is varying my boost from 10-6-9-4-10-4-9 and so on.... really not steady at all, i want a tial or a cool name brand one for i know it really works and keeps my boost at a certain boost at WOT...
ps i increased my atp preset to be at 5600 feet altitude... and i live at 40ft altitude, in the san francisco bay area
ps i increased my atp preset to be at 5600 feet altitude... and i live at 40ft altitude, in the san francisco bay area
may i ask what you set the pressure sensor to manually? are you concerned with weather changes making fluctuation in your map?
03-30-10, 11:39 PM
#32
i am not concerned one bit... the worse that could happen is i could run rich.. then, i'd play with the "set altitude" and do a couple runs to get it right... i live at 40 feet above sea level... so i doubt it''l ever be a problem to me... and i set my manual altitude at 5600 feet above sea level... im glad i thought of that and didnt have to lower my gas pressure more.. whats the altitude in san antonio fc3schick87 ??
03-30-10, 11:55 PM
#33
It could run leaner if you have a high pressure weather system come through. Its not just elevation that affects barometric pressure. I would not suggest this for anyone that is not normally at or very near sea level. For people that are normally at a higher elevation, if you were to do this and then drive down to the coast, you would lean out the farther down you go. At least here he can only go up (assuming he doesn't drive to death valley) which would only make him richer.
03-31-10, 10:43 AM
#34
when you get storms and heat waves and cold fronts thats high and low berimetric pressure changing. when a hurricane hits the coast they watch the berimetric pressure either climb rapidly or drop ( iforget if it raises or falls)
when you get a heat wave the pressure changes, when you get a cold front it changes. when you see the news weather man talk about high and low fronts thats berimetric pressure changing.
you need to adapt and change and figure out which altitude means what pressure and then watch the weather and change your pressure accordingly or you may have issues.
you could have a day of weather that could equal 500 miles below sea level and pop!
now i have no evidence to back this up but its the reason your rtek manual says to use the variable resistor input first and recommends not using the other input.
when you get a heat wave the pressure changes, when you get a cold front it changes. when you see the news weather man talk about high and low fronts thats berimetric pressure changing.
you need to adapt and change and figure out which altitude means what pressure and then watch the weather and change your pressure accordingly or you may have issues.
you could have a day of weather that could equal 500 miles below sea level and pop!
now i have no evidence to back this up but its the reason your rtek manual says to use the variable resistor input first and recommends not using the other input.
04-01-10, 02:03 PM
#35
Since were on this discussion here, I have attached an image of a barometer reading for a month. I does appear to vary a lot, but the vaules are all around 30ish give or take. Would the amount of variations actually affect the overall pressure in a significant amount that would affect a tune where it would lean/richen out?
Current Barometer reading at the Oregon coast (sea level) is 30.15in (14.8083 psi)
http://www.wunderground.com/cgi-bin/...chType=WEATHER
Current reading at sandy Oregon near Mount hood (elev 1000ish?) 28.88 (14.1845 psi)
http://www.wunderground.com/cgi-bin/...chType=WEATHER
Difference of 0.6238 psi is this enough to throw off your tune. The Pressure sensor is reading it no matter the pressure, rather than the Atmo sensor that adjusts the map???
As long as your tune is on the rich side and you don't go too far down in elev I think you'd be perfectly fine, and I personally doubt that a storm could cause that much fluctuation where you would pop your motor, unless you were in the center of a Hurricane and your car was tuned on the ragged edge. But chaning elevations is more drastic and could cause issues, but if going up you'll just get richer.
I set my elevation up when I started to be close to elevation at my house, I've driven/boosted to the coast with no problems, but my tune is rich as I prefer it to be...
Current Barometer reading at the Oregon coast (sea level) is 30.15in (14.8083 psi)
http://www.wunderground.com/cgi-bin/...chType=WEATHER
Current reading at sandy Oregon near Mount hood (elev 1000ish?) 28.88 (14.1845 psi)
http://www.wunderground.com/cgi-bin/...chType=WEATHER
Difference of 0.6238 psi is this enough to throw off your tune. The Pressure sensor is reading it no matter the pressure, rather than the Atmo sensor that adjusts the map???
As long as your tune is on the rich side and you don't go too far down in elev I think you'd be perfectly fine, and I personally doubt that a storm could cause that much fluctuation where you would pop your motor, unless you were in the center of a Hurricane and your car was tuned on the ragged edge. But chaning elevations is more drastic and could cause issues, but if going up you'll just get richer.
I set my elevation up when I started to be close to elevation at my house, I've driven/boosted to the coast with no problems, but my tune is rich as I prefer it to be...
04-01-10, 03:06 PM
#36
one step further
The highest barometric pressure ever recorded on Earth was 32.01 inches (1084hPa), measured in Agata, U.S.S.R., on December 31, 1968. Agata is located in northern Siberia. The weather was clear and very cold at the time, with temperatures between -40° and -58°.
32.01 in = 15.71693 psi
The lowest pressure ever measured was 25.69 inches (870hPa), set on Oct. 12, 1979, during Typhoon Tip in the western Pacific Ocean. The measurement was based on an instrumental observation made from a reconnaissance aircraft.
25.69 in = 12.61775 psi
That's a pretty big difference, but those are historical high/low records.
Average sea-level pressure is 101.325 kPa (1013.25 mbar, or hPa) or 29.921 inches of mercury (inHg) or 760 millimeters (mmHg)
29.921 in = 14.69582 psi
At 18,000 ft the pressure is half or 7.3479 psi
So for every foot you go above zero you lose 0.00027778 psi, if I did it right, not scientifically correct per say as it's some complex formula... or 0.3 psi for every 1000ft. Unless there is huge +5,000 foot elevation changes in your drive I'd think you wouldn't have to worry about your tune, unless you go to the bottom of the ocean, and you'd have more problems than your tune being out of whack...
Based on the pressure of historical high/low, if given as an elevation difference it would be 11,157'.
I would say, storms affecting your tune: Plausable, although pretty unlikely... (I mean it does affect it, but in an amount to affect your tune in a noticable way)
Elevation change affecting your tune: not too drastic unless greater than 1000 ft where the correction comes in and the atp sensor...
This is all Hypothetical though, not actual real world testing or experience, a pilot would know more about this because they have to lean/richen the mixture when ascending/decending.
The highest barometric pressure ever recorded on Earth was 32.01 inches (1084hPa), measured in Agata, U.S.S.R., on December 31, 1968. Agata is located in northern Siberia. The weather was clear and very cold at the time, with temperatures between -40° and -58°.
32.01 in = 15.71693 psi
The lowest pressure ever measured was 25.69 inches (870hPa), set on Oct. 12, 1979, during Typhoon Tip in the western Pacific Ocean. The measurement was based on an instrumental observation made from a reconnaissance aircraft.
25.69 in = 12.61775 psi
That's a pretty big difference, but those are historical high/low records.
Average sea-level pressure is 101.325 kPa (1013.25 mbar, or hPa) or 29.921 inches of mercury (inHg) or 760 millimeters (mmHg)
29.921 in = 14.69582 psi
At 18,000 ft the pressure is half or 7.3479 psi
So for every foot you go above zero you lose 0.00027778 psi, if I did it right, not scientifically correct per say as it's some complex formula... or 0.3 psi for every 1000ft. Unless there is huge +5,000 foot elevation changes in your drive I'd think you wouldn't have to worry about your tune, unless you go to the bottom of the ocean, and you'd have more problems than your tune being out of whack...
Based on the pressure of historical high/low, if given as an elevation difference it would be 11,157'.
I would say, storms affecting your tune: Plausable, although pretty unlikely... (I mean it does affect it, but in an amount to affect your tune in a noticable way)
Elevation change affecting your tune: not too drastic unless greater than 1000 ft where the correction comes in and the atp sensor...
This is all Hypothetical though, not actual real world testing or experience, a pilot would know more about this because they have to lean/richen the mixture when ascending/decending.
04-03-10, 12:01 PM
#37
thanks for all the great info nick.. ya, as i said before, im not too concerned with my car leaning out because i do live on the coast, but me adjusting the atp up really helped me cut down some fuel off my map and my 7 is eating the pre-mixed gas a whole lot smoother lol.. how's your car doing out in oregon man?
04-03-10, 12:02 PM
#38
one more question .... on the DIAGNOSTICS page, i have an error with my "water temp sensor"... so my coolant temp is always stuck at 176 degrees... i opened up the passenger floor to get to the ECU and i found that the pin is "2I" and sure enough, that wire was cut before it went out to the engine to the firewall... (really shitty harness from previous owner).. now my question is, i have to connect that wire to the water thermosensor behind the water pump housing, but that sensor has a 2 pin plug to it (like an injector clip) HOW DO I GO ABOUT CONNECTING THESE 2 wires when only 1 is going to the ECU??
04-03-10, 07:01 PM
#39
Good here, running the 720x720 setting now seeing afrs ~13.5 Idle and cruise. Soo much less stinky and more better fuel mileage... Boost areas still needs more tuning, since the injector setting change...
Black goes to a bunch of black wires that go to the AFM according to the FSM wiring diagram...
Good luck
Black goes to a bunch of black wires that go to the AFM according to the FSM wiring diagram...
Good luck
04-04-10, 12:49 PM
#40
right on man, so when your car idles at 13.5... does it sound like its starving for some gas? mine does and almost dies... my idle is sitting on 12.5 ish but still real stinky, but running smooth and vacuum at -11...
as to the black wire, i connected it but it still doesnt read the signal!! this has turned out to be such a pain... now im guessing my actuall water thermosensor is faulty.. i'm goin to get a new one soon.
as to the black wire, i connected it but it still doesnt read the signal!! this has turned out to be such a pain... now im guessing my actuall water thermosensor is faulty.. i'm goin to get a new one soon.
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