I'm trying to get an idea of what I can use for my fuel correction settings. I will be using a BNR Stg. 4, Walbro 255, 750/1000cc injectors, Rtek 2.1, etc. I will preface this post by stating that I have already read the whole manual and as many relevant posts as possible.

I am planning on using the 550/720cc setting. The 550ccs are .76 the size of the 720ccs. Concurrently, the 750ccs are .75 the size of the 1000ccs. With both primaries and secondaries firing, the 550/720 setting is 2540cc fuel at 100% inj. duty cycle (I think?). My combination will be 3500cc. This is 138% more fuel. (x1.38 550/720) I will be using a innovative wideband to tune AFRs.

I only have experience tuning dsms with a pocketlogger/afc combination, so this is a new challenge for me.

What I need to know is this:

1.) Should I pull roughly 38% of fuel from when the secondaries transition up? I have a feeling that I should probably go 20% or so. I will be running 10psi or so until I feel safe.

2.) I am going to shoot for high 11/low 12 afrs under full boost. What afrs should I go for under non-boosted (vacuum and 0 map) conditions?

3.) What is a good tuning algorithm to follow. For example, should I tune WOT first, or part throttle, or foot off the gas first? I'm still a bit confused on this part.

4.) Would this be an ok timing map to start with? https://www.rx7club.com/showpost.php...8&postcount=15

 

Good job reading up first! You sound like you know where you want to go and how to get there. Basically I agree with everything you said although above 10psi I would shoot for ~11:1-11.5:1 afrs..
That's the timing map I used -1 degree or so across the board, no issues yet. I am running 680x1000cc inj on the 720x720 setting and things are going better(overall leaner/better running) than with the 550x550 (11-12 afr's cruising/idle and wierd lean issues from pulling lots of fuel in vac/low rpms) setting I started out with. Start rich and work toward lean, it took me quite some time and reviewing logs before my 7 started getting fun/fast.

Get a camera and run some logs with video and post them up! Have fun!

Any pics of setup/car?

 

In low load cruising you can do 14-15:1 like you would expect the car to do under normal closed loop operation. As for boost/WOT AFR, start by targeting 11.0-11.5:1 as was suggested. Then try leaning it out on the dyno. If it picks up a little power, consider keeping the leaner tune. If it doesn't do much, keep it on the richer side for the safety margin.

Drive around out of boost at first and make sure you don't have hesitations and driveability problems, or super rich AFR's under cruising for whatever reason. Then go part throttle boost, verifying that it doesn't go lean. Then go WOT. So I will go 1/3 throttle, check everything, then 1/2 throttle, then 2/3, then WOT. I don't do the final AFR tuning until I am going WOT. The part throttle boosting is just a sort of "check point." If I see it leaning out at say 10psi and half throttle then I know I've got some work to do before giving it more throttle. It's a little more work but it's also safer.

Also, this is 93 octane right?

 

I'll shoot for that range.

Seems like that is the way to go.

I have some pics of the car from when I bought it last fall. It has been garaged all winter and now it's time to build it up. I don't have the parts installed yet, I have a week vacation in a week. I'll definitely take some pics after it's all together!

Yeah, for starters. I'll be adding water/methanol injection later on, hopefully this summer. I'll follow your tuning procedure when I start.

 

 

meant to post this earlier. sorry about not replying to your PM.

use 720/720. No sense in screwing with the low range cause mazda already did the work for you.

Remember I am not responsible if this blows your car up. It worked for me and ran fine on 93 octane with 8.5 rotors and a fmic

 

Wow, thanks! This is so helpful, and actually far from what I expected my fuel table to be. I'm really surprised that you have to add fuel on the top end, even with the larger injectors. Better too rich than too lean.

Anyway, I'll probably work with your numbers. Do you think that it is a good idea to add +3-4 to all the values in boost for starters?

Thanks again, I would not be upset with you at all if the car blew. I'm actually really shocked that you would go out of your way to post these. I think that I have most of my bases covered, but like anything in life, you never know what will happen.

 

yeah adding +4 through all of the upper boost ranges like 6psi+ (except the negatives they are small enough it won't matter). No matter what I seemed to try the secondary staging always resulted in a rich spot.

The goal is to make the map smoothly transition throughout the ranges. Look at the 3d view in the palm and you'll be able to pick off peaks and valleys. Around peaks bring up the surrounding spots and around the valleys bring the values around it down to smooth it out.