So I have been thru some clutch units lately and want to find what others that drag race use. So if you are making decent power levels and launch it like a monster (high rpm's) let me here what you are using.

So far I have been thru:

ACT steet disk (lasted a long time on stock twins and numours drag passes)
SPEC stage 3+ (Just plain ..............CRAP!!!!!!!)
ACT 6 Puck (got 3-4k miles on the street and 20 or so passes on it but sliping now)

 

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/EXEDY...1%7C240%3A1318

Past a certain point you just have to spend the money!
I bought my hks twin for $800.00 and it great.

 

I here ya Busted.... Have you ever heard of a sintered iron disk? I was curious about that one. I have another 6 puck I am going to put in and hope I can get 20-30 passes on it. I will just limit the street use but I need to know what next.

 

F.. Exedy.. That **** sucks...

 

Enzo dont hold back tell us how you feel about exedy!

Im running the hks and like it pretty good but i posted the exedy becouse it was there, if you have a recomendation im sure he would like to know!

Thanks enzo.

I have heard of the iron disk but have no experience.

 

ok... so what you like?

 

Twin disc Tilton. It will be the last clutch you will ever buy!

 

Sounds interesting. Is there a certain combo or disks to use?

 

stock na clutch on turbo motor.. ill be running a ogura twin disc once i complete the swap. hopefully it works good.

 

i loooove my os giken twin disk

 

I'm running a stock NA clutch too. Its from a 86-88 FC.

 

Can you guys give me more info on this one. How long do they last? What HP level ?

Also were and how much are the Tilton ones?

 

I have about $800 in my Tilton. IIRC the breakaway torque on mine was 900 ft-lb so it will definitely hold! I bought a flywheel $500, a used clutch off eBay $200, and had the hubs replaced $100. If your interested i have an extra flywheel i will sell.

 

Ok, If I can source the other parts. Will this unit be ok on a stock tranny? I know some disk really are meant to be used with a g-force type tranny.

 

triple OS GIKEN disk flywheel setup with the yellow anodized billet cover(with the anodized cover you get 50 more horses)The kit comes with a adjustable slave cilinder,OS GIKEN throw out bearing(cant use the stock one)and if want to spend a little more order the master cilinder 2.

 

Any truly heavy duty clutch coupled with a high HP rotary and stock tranny are going to lead to disaster. It might be a better route to have a clutch that slips a little off the line and needs to be replaced often rather than one that really shocks the driveline. Another solution would be a orifice that goes inline on the slave line to soften the engagement, but then again the wear on the clutch will also go up. With the Tilton you can get different pressure plate springs to enable it to "slip" a little on the launch but sintered discs don't respond well to slippage. No matter what with a stock transmission it's going to be a balancing act. Ask Lee (tearbo2) he will tell you it's not that easy How much power are you making? What RPM are you launching at?

 

Thats kind of what I have been told from the shops I have spoken with. The car made 617 on 23-24psi. I have been launching as low as 7700 but closer to 8300. 1.56 60's with no 2 step. When I pull it apart and put in another disk I am going to try more tire presure. Maybe I am hooking too much and need a little spin. Been running 11.5psi then taking down to 10 thinking it was slight tire spin rather than clutch sliping. The video is in my sig with the sliping clutch. Also sounds like 4 gears but I had the rev limit set to 9k and hit it right out of the hole.

 

thanks for the info! I will research that one also..

 

There are also a few other tricks you can use. A lighter flywheel will ease the stress on everything but if you go too light you may have a problem with bogging. Depending on what ECM you are running you might be able to do boost by gear and come out of the hole with a little less power and then pour it on in the rest of the gears. It's just like anything else on these cars, it all about finding a combination that works well together

 

Thanks for the help! If I pull the clutch assembly out and its not to bad-reusable then I have no issue with putting in a new disk a couple times a year. Just wish they wouldnt have drilled my clutch cover for the balancing...

 

For drag racing, yes. But for everything else, they are pretty damn good.

-J

 

If the shop that balanced you assembly was smart they would have not balanced the pressure plate to the engine rather make sure it was balanced by itself (if that makes sense). As long as whatever pressure plate you use has a neutral balance than it should not effect the balance of the engine.

 

whats the normal area they drill when balancing? The guy I took it too is a rotary specific shop. But he weighed and balanced the rotors then had another shop do the entire spin balance..

 

I just bought a Spec clutch, their "Stage 5" specifically for drag racing. Says its rated to hold up to 598ft/lbs of Tq.

 

Best of luck to you. I will NEVER use there "CRAP" again. They are located 1.5hrs from me and pushed me on a stage 3+ that wouldnt hold. They did nothing for me but offered to rebuild the shitty package at my $$.. Long story. I confronted them at a drag event last year and gave them a ear full with about 20 potential customer's at the booth!