Weld RTS on FD: My Pics and Info!
08-27-12, 02:32 PM
#1
Weld RTS on FD: My Pics and Info!
Hey Guys,
I wanted to give some information on my recent project of fitting Weld RTS wheels on my FD. First I want to thank “sk8world” for giving me some helpful insight to how these wheels fit, which made my decision easier when deciding on backspacing. Do to the minimal amount of info I could find on fitting drag wheels on the FD, I hope to shed some more light on the subject, especially with the Weld RTS wheel.
Below are the wheel sizes, the backspacing, and the tire sizes that worked very well and required no fender rolling or trimming and only minor clearancing of the rear suspension and brake components. Also, I chose to run the Hoosier Quick Time Pro’s for tires, they are DOT approved and so far…hook extremely well. The QTP’s are not exactly intended for street use, but I have not had any issues on the street, they take some getting used to, they tend to sway a little with the soft sidewalls, and I’ve heard they suck in the rain, but I haven’t driven in the rain with them yet.
Front Wheel: 15x4 with 2.5” Backspace, (1mm Offset)
Front Tire: 25x5 (Hoosier QTP)
Rear Wheel: 15x8 with 6.5” Backspace, (47mm Offset)
Rear Tire: 26x11.50 (Hoosier QTP)
Fitting these wheels also required the use of spacers. Unfortunately Weld does not make the RTS with custom backspacing so spacers are a must. I wanted to avoid having to use extended studs so here is what I did. (Keep in mind, my car will not be racing in any form of sanctioned events, I just beat on my car at the local strip…so my method may not be legal).
Front Spacer: ¼” (Ordered through Summit: Billet Specialties WSG5L250)
Rear Spacer: ½” (Wheel adapter .com)
Weld and most other drag wheels require a shank type lug nut, so I had my ½” spacers for the rear made with ¾” stud holes, this would allow me to use extended shank lug nuts that would pass through the spacer, instead of bottoming out on the spacer. The extended shank allowed me to safely thread the lug nut through both the wheel and the spacer onto most of the threads of the factory studs. The front wheel with the ¼” spacer only required the standard length Weld shank lug nut because of the smaller spacer. (Although you could modify the spacer and use an extended shank lug nut if you want to).
Front Lug Nut: Weld (standard shank length)
Rear Lug Nut: McGard #62002, (extended shank length 0.946”)
Rear hubcentric 1/2" spacer with 3/4" stud holes:
The front wheels required nothing more than the ¼” spacer to fit.
The rear wheels required some grinding in addition to the ½” spacer. I also replaced the Toe Link bolt with a bolt that had a shorter head, giving me less grinding work to do. The areas that need grinding work are the Toe Link bolt area and part of the ribs on the Rear Caliper…its not much work, see below.
After having the wheels on for a couple days, the Weld center caps were really bugging the hell out of me, to me they looked like they belonged on an F-150. Weld does not sell a shorter center cap than what I had, so I decided to get my grinder back out, install a cutoff wheel and experiment…here is what I came up with. Looks way better!
Here are some shots to give you an idea of the backspacing:
The finished product!
I wanted to give some information on my recent project of fitting Weld RTS wheels on my FD. First I want to thank “sk8world” for giving me some helpful insight to how these wheels fit, which made my decision easier when deciding on backspacing. Do to the minimal amount of info I could find on fitting drag wheels on the FD, I hope to shed some more light on the subject, especially with the Weld RTS wheel.
Below are the wheel sizes, the backspacing, and the tire sizes that worked very well and required no fender rolling or trimming and only minor clearancing of the rear suspension and brake components. Also, I chose to run the Hoosier Quick Time Pro’s for tires, they are DOT approved and so far…hook extremely well. The QTP’s are not exactly intended for street use, but I have not had any issues on the street, they take some getting used to, they tend to sway a little with the soft sidewalls, and I’ve heard they suck in the rain, but I haven’t driven in the rain with them yet.
Front Wheel: 15x4 with 2.5” Backspace, (1mm Offset)
Front Tire: 25x5 (Hoosier QTP)
Rear Wheel: 15x8 with 6.5” Backspace, (47mm Offset)
Rear Tire: 26x11.50 (Hoosier QTP)
Fitting these wheels also required the use of spacers. Unfortunately Weld does not make the RTS with custom backspacing so spacers are a must. I wanted to avoid having to use extended studs so here is what I did. (Keep in mind, my car will not be racing in any form of sanctioned events, I just beat on my car at the local strip…so my method may not be legal).
Front Spacer: ¼” (Ordered through Summit: Billet Specialties WSG5L250)
Rear Spacer: ½” (Wheel adapter .com)
Weld and most other drag wheels require a shank type lug nut, so I had my ½” spacers for the rear made with ¾” stud holes, this would allow me to use extended shank lug nuts that would pass through the spacer, instead of bottoming out on the spacer. The extended shank allowed me to safely thread the lug nut through both the wheel and the spacer onto most of the threads of the factory studs. The front wheel with the ¼” spacer only required the standard length Weld shank lug nut because of the smaller spacer. (Although you could modify the spacer and use an extended shank lug nut if you want to).
Front Lug Nut: Weld (standard shank length)
Rear Lug Nut: McGard #62002, (extended shank length 0.946”)
Rear hubcentric 1/2" spacer with 3/4" stud holes:
The front wheels required nothing more than the ¼” spacer to fit.
The rear wheels required some grinding in addition to the ½” spacer. I also replaced the Toe Link bolt with a bolt that had a shorter head, giving me less grinding work to do. The areas that need grinding work are the Toe Link bolt area and part of the ribs on the Rear Caliper…its not much work, see below.
After having the wheels on for a couple days, the Weld center caps were really bugging the hell out of me, to me they looked like they belonged on an F-150. Weld does not sell a shorter center cap than what I had, so I decided to get my grinder back out, install a cutoff wheel and experiment…here is what I came up with. Looks way better!
Here are some shots to give you an idea of the backspacing:
The finished product!
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I was just looking at rts's last night trying to figure out tire/wheel size
08-27-12, 11:19 PM
#12
Couple things, first the wheel size you did on the rear is much better fittment than mine with 5.5 bs! 5.5 don't require a spacer but 10.5 tire is as wide as I could go with rolling the fender. I now might just buy another set in 6.5 so I can run a 11.5 tire. Second, those caps look great!
Good work man!
Good work man!
08-28-12, 06:39 AM
#13
Thanks guys!!!
I tried running the wheels without the caps and it just looked like they were missing something, so I was happy I could make the Weld caps fit better. I wish they did have some center cap options other than the standard old school cap.
I tried running the wheels without the caps and it just looked like they were missing something, so I was happy I could make the Weld caps fit better. I wish they did have some center cap options other than the standard old school cap.
08-28-12, 03:05 PM
#18
Rotary Enthusiast
Couple things, first the wheel size you did on the rear is much better fittment than mine with 5.5 bs! 5.5 don't require a spacer but 10.5 tire is as wide as I could go with rolling the fender. I now might just buy another set in 6.5 so I can run a 11.5 tire. Second, those caps look great!
Good work man!
Good work man!
08-28-12, 05:21 PM
#19
For anyone else interested in a set, send me over a PM and some details of your setup (wheel type and spacer dimensions) and I will be glad to discuss the options with you and we'll go from there. I could provide new center caps as I have access to Weld stuff at wholesale pricing, or I can modify yours.
