sk8world

iTrader: (5)

Only because I am considering going to a clutchless unit. I fooled myself thinking I would drive alot on the streets so I wanted something for street and track. The only street driving I do is on the way to the track..

My tranny has been great, no issues. Have 7 passes on it. Maybe 150 miles on it.

Its basically a brand new unit as I put in a new cluster-input shaft and chromoly out put shaft, face plated and treated. There were a few other things they replaced also. I have 3k in the work.

I also have a shift gate on the way so it locks out 5th and reverse. This will make the 2-3 shift a breeze.

I will be happy to keep running it but if someone is considering a race tranny and isnt ready for a 6-8k clutchless this is the next best thing.

PM me if serious and want a price.

AnthonyNYC

iTrader: (3)

Cats out of the bag!

I'll ask around locally, I have a few friends who might be interested. When you purchase through Liberty you will pay more and have to wait a few months, good deal!

sk8world

iTrader: (5)

Thanks for spreading the word and get me that info I asked about please!


I will video a inside shot of me shifting the gears next time out. Hopefully getting that 9.80 pass (just enough to up Roan).


Let me remind you a new input cluster set is about $900 and I am pretty sure Liberty does not have anymore Chormoly output shafts that were $500.

Someone could save a good bit on a tranny combo that maybe impossible to get!

I am going to post it around and I bet some PR guy or aussie will go crazy for it!

ultimatejay

iTrader: (1)

May I make a suggestion? Ok, thanks. hehe. You already have a good transmission that allows you to shift alot faster than a stock transmission. The clutchless will be a little quicker but not that much and you still have the crappy IRS suspension. If I were you, I would keep the current transmission and put my money in a nice 8.8 or 9" solid rearend. You will pick up more time by putting a solid rearend than you would a clutchless at this point and it would be alot cheaper. Espeicially if the car is going to be a full time drag car. That is unless you are trying to go for some IRS record?

Trots*88TII-AE*

iTrader: (11)

Was this built from a standard FD trans? Wondering if it would work on a T2 bellhousing for an FC...

blitzboy

good bargain!!!, as I contacted Liberty and they said they dont do the input cluster anymore for the FD transmission, so I am forced to take an input shaft to an engineering place to have one made in 300m

beefcake

i would have signed up one month ago , but seems we are all following the jay an enzo path

enzo250

beefcake

i got a miata donk in me workshop that i keep looking at

sk8world

iTrader: (5)

Just curious how much more can picked up on a solid rear with my set up? Maybe another .10th? If I were spraying it I am sure more or if I got the weight down.

I am willing to bet on the clutchless I would pick up atleast .2-3 more in the 1/8th alone. Then again I may end up doing both tranny and rear. Until I see a soild rear set up I like I would only go to the irs 8.8 like Anthony posted-did.

sk8world

iTrader: (5)

yes, standard fd case. No fitment change.

RoTaRyBoYz

x2

sk8world

iTrader: (5)

I am not to proud to take advise but can one of you show me a fd with a solid rear cutting much better than 1.36's? If it cut my 60 foots by .1 that would pick me up .2 in the 1/4. I would think a clutchless would go .4-.6 in the 1/4 min. quicker.. no?

justturbo2

iTrader: (4)

Ok... For the guys running the 8.8 rear end what is the advantage compared to
The factory rear with kazz and driveshaft axles, besides the
Ability to have a wider range of gear ratio?

enzo250

Both would be best of course..

Remember grip in 2nd and 3rd gear is also important besides 60ft...

At moderate power levels IRS will work ok. As power increases you will find it more and more difficult to get grip..

AnthonyNYC

iTrader: (3)

If you already have the Kaaz setup I would not change. I sold my Kaaz setup since I was going solid axle but that did not work out. The Kaaz setup works very well for a lot of people I don't know anyone that has broken a Kaaz unit with a Diff/cradle brace. In the end I knew I was going with an aftermarket tranny and was not sure about gear ratios etc so I ended up getting the cobra IRS. Ford Motorsports gears were $210 vs $500, parts are readily available everywhere and cheap! If you already have a Kaaz and you are happy with your gear ratio I see no reason to really change.

Jay, Rotaryboyz and I had the exact same conversation yesterday. With an aftermarket tranny upgrade, it takes an hour to go back to a stock setup, it's all bolt back. If you have the side linkages on the tranny, you will have to cut the tunnel but not by much, if you have the top linkages like you have, you will have to widen the tunnel. With a straight axle setup, there is no going back. I was told with a ladder bar setup, driving on the street (if you ever wanted to) would be very difficult. I had reputable chassis guy look at my setup and he says there's not much room back there, a 4 link would end up inside the car and a ladder bar would not be that streetable anymore. Also the cost was over $5 with parts and labor. I figured if the cobra IRS can handle what Enzo put it through, then it will last for the guys making a lot less power. BTW, thank you for the help with the clutch setup and advice.

enzo250

besides ability to change ratio's very easily it's stronger too..
I put mine thru hell and it was trouble free for me. I didn't have to cross my fingers when I dropped the clutch.

ultimatejay

iTrader: (1)

After you factor in how much the clutchless transmission costs and now you have to buy a trailer because you can't drive the car on the street you are talking between 6-15k+. And you still havent solved the breaking of the rearend components. You can install a solid 8.8 or 9" for under 3k and you will not have to worry about breaking the rearend. I thought the whole reason guys drag race and keep the IRS suspension is for street/strip- drive car home after racing and/or going for the IRS record? Unless you are going for the IRS record, I don't see the reason or need for a clutchless transmission. For me I would rather be able to drive my fd on the street after making a 9 second pass and waving to the guy that spent 8k on a clutchless tranmission that ran the same time towing his car back home.

enzo250

Just so you know the Liberty clutchless transmission is over 13" wide.
It's more then just widen the tunnel. It's cutting the complete tunnel out.. And Spreading it wider..

You'll basically be cutting up a perfect "rare" FD.
Not sure what's worse cutting it up or putting a piston motor in.

If your willing to cut up your car you might as well back half it with solid rear anyway.

So I would have to say I agree with the other guys and say do the solid rear before clutchless trans unless your doing both or trying to set a new IRS record.

enzo250

Oh yes thats a good feeling..

I'm sure you agree Jay that a liberty clutchless with all necessary parts will run you upwards of 10K.

AnthonyNYC

iTrader: (3)

You are right, when we spoke to Gforce with the linkages on the side it was not that bad, but with the linkages on the top, forget it! Like you said, it would mean cutting the entire tunnel off. My car will end up with a solid rear and half back eventually. Aaron has friend in CT that I will visit after the season is over. As for the IRS record, no time soon lol but I just want to get back into it and have some fun. Seeing Eddie take out La Otra will motivate anyone to get moving!

sk8world

iTrader: (5)

I race only for me. There is no title I am after. No class I need to make. I was just thinking for 3-4k over what I have in my other tranny I could go clutchless. If that would shave .4-.6 of the 1/4 then its a no brainer for me.

ultimatejay

iTrader: (1)

YES! My *** still hurts!

I don't think you can get into a clutchless trans for 3-4k. Even used ones are around 3-4k and most of the time the gearing is set up for v8 cars and are useless. Then you have to buy an adaptor plate, crossmember, cut a bunch of **** up and get a new yoke and driveshaft. Your looking at around 6k for a used setup by the time your done and around 8-10k for a new setup. And then you cant drive it on the street anymore and would need to buy a truck and trailer if you don't have one-I'm sure you have thought of that though.

If you are set on keeping your fd a full time drag car, then I would back half the car first like Enzo said and put a solid rearend in before putting a clutchless transmission. With practice, you should be able to shift your trans. that you have really fast. And then later if money permits put a clutchless in. If money is no object, then what are you waiting for? LOL You have to really ask yourself, do you want to cut up a perfectly good Fd, or keep the fd a street/strip car and build a first gen or something. At some point there's no turning back.

enzo250

It's a catch 22.
You will definitely pick up a few tenths over what you got.
Problem now is the IRS is now going to show it's weakness and the more power you throw at it the worse it's going to get. Plus your factory axles, diff, etc are going to break...

Why don't you focus on getting a bit more HP and that will get you into the single digits..
I know a guy who makes a turbo kit that should do it.

864angel112

iTrader: (7)

What's your build and engine set up, is it possible that you can get better times with more power rather than cutting up the car.