Thinking of selling my Liberty built tranny!
Only because I am considering going to a clutchless unit. I fooled myself thinking I would drive alot on the streets so I wanted something for street and track. The only street driving I do is on the way to the track.. :lol:
My tranny has been great, no issues. Have 7 passes on it. Maybe 150 miles on it. Its basically a brand new unit as I put in a new cluster-input shaft and chromoly out put shaft, face plated and treated. There were a few other things they replaced also. I have 3k in the work. I also have a shift gate on the way so it locks out 5th and reverse. This will make the 2-3 shift a breeze. I will be happy to keep running it but if someone is considering a race tranny and isnt ready for a 6-8k clutchless this is the next best thing. PM me if serious and want a price. |
Originally Posted by sk8world
(Post 10626142)
Only because I am considering going to a clutchless unit. I fooled myself thinking I would drive alot on the streets so I wanted something for street and track. The only street driving I do is on the way to the track.. :lol:
My tranny has been great, no issues. Have 7 passes on it. Maybe 150 miles on it. Its basically a brand new unit as I put in a new cluster-input shaft and chromoly out put shaft, face plated and treated. There were a few other things they replaced also. I have 3k in the work. I also have a shift gate on the way so it locks out 5th and reverse. This will make the 2-3 shift a breeze. I will be happy to keep running it but if someone is considering a race tranny and isnt ready for a 6-8k clutchless this is the next best thing. PM me if serious and want a price. I'll ask around locally, I have a few friends who might be interested. When you purchase through Liberty you will pay more and have to wait a few months, good deal! |
Originally Posted by AnthonyNYC
(Post 10626596)
Cats out of the bag! :)
I'll ask around locally, I have a few friends who might be interested. When you purchase through Liberty you will pay more and have to wait a few months, good deal! Thanks for spreading the word and get me that info I asked about please! I will video a inside shot of me shifting the gears next time out. Hopefully getting that 9.80 pass (just enough to up Roan). :lol: Let me remind you a new input cluster set is about $900 and I am pretty sure Liberty does not have anymore Chormoly output shafts that were $500. Someone could save a good bit on a tranny combo that maybe impossible to get! I am going to post it around and I bet some PR guy or aussie will go crazy for it! |
May I make a suggestion? Ok, thanks. hehe. You already have a good transmission that allows you to shift alot faster than a stock transmission. The clutchless will be a little quicker but not that much and you still have the crappy IRS suspension. If I were you, I would keep the current transmission and put my money in a nice 8.8 or 9" solid rearend. You will pick up more time by putting a solid rearend than you would a clutchless at this point and it would be alot cheaper. Espeicially if the car is going to be a full time drag car. That is unless you are trying to go for some IRS record?
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Was this built from a standard FD trans? Wondering if it would work on a T2 bellhousing for an FC...
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good bargain!!!, as I contacted Liberty and they said they dont do the input cluster anymore for the FD transmission, so I am forced to take an input shaft to an engineering place to have one made in 300m
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Originally Posted by sk8world
(Post 10626699)
Thanks for spreading the word and get me that info I asked about please!
I will video a inside shot of me shifting the gears next time out. Hopefully getting that 9.80 pass (just enough to up Roan). :lol: Let me remind you a new input cluster set is about $900 and I am pretty sure Liberty does not have anymore Chormoly output shafts that were $500. Someone could save a good bit on a tranny combo that maybe impossible to get! I am going to post it around and I bet some PR guy or aussie will go crazy for it! |
Originally Posted by beefcake
(Post 10627042)
but seems we are all following the jay an enzo path :icon_tup:
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:icon_tup::icon_tup: i got a miata donk in me workshop that i keep looking at :lol:
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Originally Posted by ultimatejay
(Post 10626746)
May I make a suggestion? Ok, thanks. hehe. You already have a good transmission that allows you to shift alot faster than a stock transmission. The clutchless will be a little quicker but not that much and you still have the crappy IRS suspension. If I were you, I would keep the current transmission and put my money in a nice 8.8 or 9" solid rearend. You will pick up more time by putting a solid rearend than you would a clutchless at this point and it would be alot cheaper. Espeicially if the car is going to be a full time drag car. That is unless you are trying to go for some IRS record?
Just curious how much more can picked up on a solid rear with my set up? Maybe another .10th? If I were spraying it I am sure more or if I got the weight down. I am willing to bet on the clutchless I would pick up atleast .2-3 more in the 1/8th alone. Then again I may end up doing both tranny and rear. Until I see a soild rear set up I like I would only go to the irs 8.8 like Anthony posted-did. |
Originally Posted by Trots*88TII-AE*
(Post 10626850)
Was this built from a standard FD trans? Wondering if it would work on a T2 bellhousing for an FC...
yes, standard fd case. No fitment change. |
Originally Posted by ultimatejay
(Post 10626746)
may i make a suggestion? Ok, thanks. Hehe. You already have a good transmission that allows you to shift alot faster than a stock transmission. The clutchless will be a little quicker but not that much and you still have the crappy irs suspension. If i were you, i would keep the current transmission and put my money in a nice 8.8 or 9" solid rearend. You will pick up more time by putting a solid rearend than you would a clutchless at this point and it would be alot cheaper. Espeicially if the car is going to be a full time drag car. That is unless you are trying to go for some irs record?
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Originally Posted by RoTaRyBoYz
(Post 10627738)
x2
I am not to proud to take advise but can one of you show me a fd with a solid rear cutting much better than 1.36's? If it cut my 60 foots by .1 that would pick me up .2 in the 1/4. I would think a clutchless would go .4-.6 in the 1/4 min. quicker.. no? |
Ok... For the guys running the 8.8 rear end what is the advantage compared to
The factory rear with kazz and driveshaft axles, besides the Ability to have a wider range of gear ratio? |
Originally Posted by sk8world
(Post 10627761)
I am not to proud to take advise but can one of you show me a fd with a solid rear cutting much better than 1.36's? If it cut my 60 foots by .1 that would pick me up .2 in the 1/4. I would think a clutchless would go .4-.6 in the 1/4 min. quicker.. no?
Remember grip in 2nd and 3rd gear is also important besides 60ft... At moderate power levels IRS will work ok. As power increases you will find it more and more difficult to get grip.. |
Originally Posted by justturbo2
(Post 10627826)
Ok... For the guys running the 8.8 rear end what is the advantage compared to
The factory rear with kazz and driveshaft axles, besides the Ability to have a wider range of gear ratio?
Originally Posted by ultimatejay
(Post 10626746)
May I make a suggestion? Ok, thanks. hehe. You already have a good transmission that allows you to shift alot faster than a stock transmission. The clutchless will be a little quicker but not that much and you still have the crappy IRS suspension. If I were you, I would keep the current transmission and put my money in a nice 8.8 or 9" solid rearend. You will pick up more time by putting a solid rearend than you would a clutchless at this point and it would be alot cheaper. Espeicially if the car is going to be a full time drag car. That is unless you are trying to go for some IRS record?
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Originally Posted by justturbo2
(Post 10627826)
Ok... For the guys running the 8.8 rear end what is the advantage compared to
The factory rear with kazz and driveshaft axles, besides the Ability to have a wider range of gear ratio? I put mine thru hell and it was trouble free for me. I didn't have to cross my fingers when I dropped the clutch. :) |
Originally Posted by sk8world
(Post 10627761)
I am not to proud to take advise but can one of you show me a fd with a solid rear cutting much better than 1.36's? If it cut my 60 foots by .1 that would pick me up .2 in the 1/4. I would think a clutchless would go .4-.6 in the 1/4 min. quicker.. no?
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Originally Posted by AnthonyNYC
(Post 10627958)
If you have the side linkages on the tranny, you will have to cut the tunnel but not by much, if you have the top linkages like you have, you will have to widen the tunnel.
It's more then just widen the tunnel. It's cutting the complete tunnel out.. And Spreading it wider.. You'll basically be cutting up a perfect "rare" FD. Not sure what's worse cutting it up or putting a piston motor in. :lol: If your willing to cut up your car you might as well back half it with solid rear anyway. So I would have to say I agree with the other guys and say do the solid rear before clutchless trans unless your doing both or trying to set a new IRS record. :) |
Originally Posted by ultimatejay
(Post 10627962)
For me I would rather be able to drive my fd on the street after making a 9 second pass and waving to the guy that spent 8k on a clutchless tranmission that ran the same time towing his car back home. :lol:
I'm sure you agree Jay that a liberty clutchless with all necessary parts will run you upwards of 10K. |
Originally Posted by enzo250
(Post 10627987)
Just so you know the Liberty clutchless transmission is over 13" wide.
It's more then just widen the tunnel. It's cutting the complete tunnel out.. And Spreading it wider.. You'll basically be cutting up a perfect "rare" FD. Not sure what's worse cutting it up or putting a piston motor in. :lol: If your willing to cut up your car you might as well back half it with solid rear anyway. So I would have to say I agree with the other guys and say do the solid rear before clutchless trans unless your doing both or trying to set a new IRS record. :) |
I race only for me. There is no title I am after. No class I need to make. I was just thinking for 3-4k over what I have in my other tranny I could go clutchless. If that would shave .4-.6 of the 1/4 then its a no brainer for me.
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Originally Posted by enzo250
(Post 10627987)
Just so you know the Liberty clutchless transmission is over 13" wide.
It's more then just widen the tunnel. It's cutting the complete tunnel out.. And Spreading it wider.. You'll basically be cutting up a perfect "rare" FD. Not sure what's worse cutting it up or putting a piston motor in. :lol: If your willing to cut up your car you might as well back half it with solid rear anyway. So I would have to say I agree with the other guys and say do the solid rear before clutchless trans unless your doing both or trying to set a new IRS record. :)
Originally Posted by enzo250
(Post 10628004)
Oh yes thats a good feeling.. :)
I'm sure you agree Jay that a liberty clutchless with all necessary parts will run you upwards of 10K.
Originally Posted by sk8world
(Post 10628116)
I race only for me. There is no title I am after. No class I need to make. I was just thinking for 3-4k over what I have in my other tranny I could go clutchless. If that would shave .4-.6 of the 1/4 then its a no brainer for me.
If you are set on keeping your fd a full time drag car, then I would back half the car first like Enzo said and put a solid rearend in before putting a clutchless transmission. With practice, you should be able to shift your trans. that you have really fast. And then later if money permits put a clutchless in. If money is no object, then what are you waiting for? LOL You have to really ask yourself, do you want to cut up a perfectly good Fd, or keep the fd a street/strip car and build a first gen or something. At some point there's no turning back. |
It's a catch 22.
You will definitely pick up a few tenths over what you got. Problem now is the IRS is now going to show it's weakness and the more power you throw at it the worse it's going to get. Plus your factory axles, diff, etc are going to break... Why don't you focus on getting a bit more HP and that will get you into the single digits.. :) I know a guy who makes a turbo kit that should do it. :lol: |
What's your build and engine set up, is it possible that you can get better times with more power rather than cutting up the car.
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