rod end/DOM tubing size for 4-link
#1
rod end/DOM tubing size for 4-link
I am planning to use 3/4 rod ends with 1.25 od x .125 wall DOM chromoly tubing. But I think this might be over kill. My car should weigh in at 1700-1800 lbs or less when completed and is an all motor car.
Could 1/2 or 5/8 rod ends be more than enough with 1.00 od x .125 wall chromolly tubing?
This is both a weight and cost choice. I know it will only be ounces saved here and there. But if I keep that mind set when choosing every single part for the car, it will all add up. And cost is always an issue...
Also, are chromolly end link really needed? or are the mild steel versions good enough with a car as light as mine?
For comparison:
5/8 mild steel rod end: Ult. Static Radial Load: 13,540
5/8 chromo rod end: Ult. Static Radial Load: 17,995
3/4 mild steel rod end: Ult. Static Radial Load: 18,810
3/4 chromo rod end: Ult. Static Radial Load: 28,081
Could 1/2 or 5/8 rod ends be more than enough with 1.00 od x .125 wall chromolly tubing?
This is both a weight and cost choice. I know it will only be ounces saved here and there. But if I keep that mind set when choosing every single part for the car, it will all add up. And cost is always an issue...
Also, are chromolly end link really needed? or are the mild steel versions good enough with a car as light as mine?
For comparison:
5/8 mild steel rod end: Ult. Static Radial Load: 13,540
5/8 chromo rod end: Ult. Static Radial Load: 17,995
3/4 mild steel rod end: Ult. Static Radial Load: 18,810
3/4 chromo rod end: Ult. Static Radial Load: 28,081
#3
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3/4 chromo rod end: Ult. Static Radial Load: 28,081 is what I used. 1 inch OD and 3/4 ID mild steel tube for the rods. Bought a left and right hand die and made my own links.
Guys at the hot rod store suggested 5/8 stuff but went bigger just for the piece of
mind.
I bet the bottom one could have been built with 5/8 stuff since the rear of the diff is pushed forward. The top link are the ones that are being push apart and felt they needed to be the strongest
I remember once I broke a stock lower link on my 1st gen. Mostly stock turbo stuff. Took some metal stock, coat hanger and duct tape and continued drag racing. it was bent slightly from being used as jack point.
Guys at the hot rod store suggested 5/8 stuff but went bigger just for the piece of
mind.
I bet the bottom one could have been built with 5/8 stuff since the rear of the diff is pushed forward. The top link are the ones that are being push apart and felt they needed to be the strongest
I remember once I broke a stock lower link on my 1st gen. Mostly stock turbo stuff. Took some metal stock, coat hanger and duct tape and continued drag racing. it was bent slightly from being used as jack point.
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