sk8world

iTrader: (5)

So I have a race in 2 weeks (King of the streets) KOTS. I want to run K1 class 6.00-6.50. Last year I only had time to make 2 passes with the new tranny and running more psi. 6.49 and 6.44 with no flat shifting.
I think to have a shot , I not only need to cut some good lights (pro tree) but be able to run low 6.2's to high 6.1's. I think the flat shifting will pick up .1 per shift (per Enzo) so thats .2 already. Got to find another .05. I know weight is the anwser but havent had time to put it on a lift and take a few items off. Was wondering about front and rear sway bar's and rear tower bar.? Should I remove them?

Also 3rd season on beating the crap out of this motor with no refreshing so fingers crossed.

So spill the secrets.... If you got any!

Bacon

iTrader: (12)

keep the rear sway bar, toss the front for racing

sk8world

iTrader: (5)

I had it off a couple years back and didn't tell a difference but I wasn't launching like I am now. I wonder if that divers side tire will finally come up like some of Dan s. Old pics?

sk8world

iTrader: (5)

I also wonder if I should try the 11.5's instead of the 10.5's out on the et streets. I have both mounted and ready, Just that the 11.5's are older and don't feel as soft compound wise.

sk8world

iTrader: (5)

Maybe I just need to throw on a 50 shot. Lol

beefcake

you can gain wheel speed buy throwing on old slicks, its a old school trick that one, even we didit last weekend and got a new PB , 7.18 from a 7.25 , year old slicks that were on the shelf is all we changed .

Ditch the bars , all of them except the tower bar, gotta do anything to stop flex in rear causing shitty camber, its questionable to me if they work, but why not .

Polish the **** off the car, get it cut back and shined , have it cutting the wind slick az bru , **** noes if its gonna work but it will look good ahaha

sk8world

iTrader: (5)

Cant run slicks in this class. Only DOT tires. Always keep the car slick to the touch!

Think I am going to take both sets of tires and make qualifying runs on both. May try and up the 2 step or add more fuel in those cells.

Doc Holiday

iTrader: (2)

radial or DOT? Two very different animals. ET streets are DOT

sk8world

iTrader: (5)

DOT. No slicks. So my et streets are fine.

Indian

iTrader: (1)

I have an Idea Sk, Lets kill two birds with one stone here. Tell us everything you do from the time you start your burn out to finishing the 1/4..

EG.. :

1 roll through water (miss the front) just guessing
2.. Do a burnout for 10 secs... or until I see the smoke pass the front of my car...

That way, people who know can critique what you do and how you can do it better, and novices like myself can learn from you and your critique-rs.

I ssee so many awesome builds but not enough knowledge on how to properly apply the new found power to the track...

I too have a car that should have the same potential, but how to drive it at the track to get that potential is another story..

So.....this way everyone wins... no?

sk8world

iTrader: (5)

I have been running this set up for 3 years and and getting quicker each season with little change, just learning the car. I feel I have maximized the car in its current state. I now need to start making changes to get quicker. I want to make those changes to other parts not the driveline sinces its doing so well.

1. Weight.

2. some suspension, sway bars, tower bar, alignment, etc.. (btw my alignment is so bad right now). I think the perfect spring strut combo for me would be a tad stiffer spring, with same strut rate but double adjustable so I could make it stay down and not bounce around so much. I bottom out on the launch's.

3. and then more weight.

The above is were I believe more et can be picked up.

I made a post for AnthonyNYC a few weeks back on how I stage and such. I will dig that up for you.


Here ya go.

Hey Anthony,

I dont set the line lock full on, just a tap on the brake as I set the 2 step-line lock. That way I can still slip the clutch a tad to stage. I use the ebrake in conjunction just to be safe on not rolling to far and keeping all tight. Once 2nd bulb is lite I drop the ebrake and bring rev's up just below 2 step rpms so I am not banging on it too long. Soon as I feel the tree is going to light I go pedal down!

My 2step and line lock are set up on 2 three way switches and 3 relay. (relay for line lock, relay for 2 step and relay to cut trailings) #1 switch controls line lock and #2 for 2 step. I have a push button the activates all when switch (s) are on.

In burn out box #1 switch is on and #2 off (so I dont use 2 step). After burn out I turn #2 on (2 step). Clutch has to be in and push the button that activates both line lock and 2step, soft pump on brake, pull ebrake and slip clutch to stage, once I release the clutch everything is disarmed.
__________________


As far as the burn out goes I bang off the limiter until I feel its ready to go. Watch the video here and it shows it all: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uqgamvEwT1U

Indian

iTrader: (1)

what suspension /spring rates are you currently running? Granted... if your getting 1.4 60ft I think your fine in that department..then again you said your bumping around the track..

sk8world

iTrader: (5)

I have played with a few differant combo's.

Koni/eibach
JIC coilovers
Stock Touring combo

Best 60 so far was on the stock ones.

Problem you run into is either hitting the bottom or stiff ones unloading your tires. The perfect drag shock isnt out there yet for our car. A 90/10 trut or a true double adjustable strut would be the ticket. Set it to rise slow so the car stays planted and comes up oh so slow.

Indian

iTrader: (1)

well there's the hks drag, though koni had something a while back....
I know Ari was working on something too.

It would be nice is someone did do a 90/10 or 70/30 setup with lakewoods, but none yet..

the setup i settled on was tein flex with QA1 springs.. 8k front and 6K in the rear.. I could have went 6K and 4K like the hks drag but I was thinking about driving on the road(lots of corners) my best 60ft so far was 1.74 on e.t streets with 12psi in the tires... street high mph runs the rear would kind of float though... hope this helps somehow

Indian

iTrader: (1)

honestly, if you dont want to raise boost, lighten up or spend gobs more power... then Id just put a 50 shot on it and call it a day(depends on if your allowed to run two power adders in your class)... you could go over the e85/98 or Q16 too