Jumping ship
Perfection. 
...go get a red neck mobile...
Some of you people are just silly! Get over it.
Full Member
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 112
Likes: 0
From: ???
Atrevida Toyota Starlet never used. that car was one of the fastest in P.R.
Do you balance the engine before?
Rotary Enthusiast
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 991
Likes: 1
From: Los Angeles
Back on the days rotary race cars don't use mid plate or oil cooler. Example La
Atrevida Toyota Starlet never used. that car was one of the fastest in P.R.
Atrevida Toyota Starlet never used. that car was one of the fastest in P.R.
The cars in PR did not weigh anything even today....some of those cars tip the scales 1700-1900 lbs with driver....with that much weight and steeper gearing there is not much stress on the engine compared to a 2000+ car and running heavier street gears,makes the engine flex at the rear plate to the front plate.
Its all down to setups and tuning also power to weight ratio......
Going fast isn't cheap. The faster you go the more it costs. Look at the new rules for the safety wear. There like 1000 bucks! Once you get down below mid 9's things add up real fast. Then when you get into the 6-7 second zone you better have won the lottery.
One thing that alot of people do that get them in trouble is skimp out on the parts. This usually ends up costing more in the long run because of failures. If they just took a little time and saved up your money and bought a really good quality parts and setup, this will help dramastically.
Full Member
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 112
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From: ???
In my country said " porque el legartigo trepan palo ya se creen electricistas"
yellow rx3
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 114
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From: herethereeverywhere
Chris,
Invest in a good fuel pump, non electric the better. Add more injector to lower the 90 duty cycle of your injector. The max duty I believe,to run an injector is 80% max to be sufficient. I not 100% sure, but I would talk to RC engineering about it. Or get a injector calculator. By doing this you will save yourself a lot of headache. Then get an experience tuner that is knowledgeable with the ecu you have.
I am almost sure you keep your tune with the right timing, with a good pump and extra injector to tailor your e85 fuel need, I most certainly sure that you wouldn't have that kind of failure... Good luck...
Invest in a good fuel pump, non electric the better. Add more injector to lower the 90 duty cycle of your injector. The max duty I believe,to run an injector is 80% max to be sufficient. I not 100% sure, but I would talk to RC engineering about it. Or get a injector calculator. By doing this you will save yourself a lot of headache. Then get an experience tuner that is knowledgeable with the ecu you have.
I am almost sure you keep your tune with the right timing, with a good pump and extra injector to tailor your e85 fuel need, I most certainly sure that you wouldn't have that kind of failure... Good luck...
Rotary Enthusiast
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 1,216
Likes: 10
From: Melbourne FL/San Antonio TX/Okinawa Japan
Chris,
Invest in a good fuel pump, non electric the better. Add more injector to lower the 90 duty cycle of your injector. The max duty I believe,to run an injector is 80% max to be sufficient. I not 100% sure, but I would talk to RC engineering about it. Or get a injector calculator. By doing this you will save yourself a lot of headache. Then get an experience tuner that is knowledgeable with the ecu you have.
I am almost sure you keep your tune with the right timing, with a good pump and extra injector to tailor your e85 fuel need, I most certainly sure that you wouldn't have that kind of failure... Good luck...
Invest in a good fuel pump, non electric the better. Add more injector to lower the 90 duty cycle of your injector. The max duty I believe,to run an injector is 80% max to be sufficient. I not 100% sure, but I would talk to RC engineering about it. Or get a injector calculator. By doing this you will save yourself a lot of headache. Then get an experience tuner that is knowledgeable with the ecu you have.
I am almost sure you keep your tune with the right timing, with a good pump and extra injector to tailor your e85 fuel need, I most certainly sure that you wouldn't have that kind of failure... Good luck...
EGTs and reading your plugs after every pull or run is your best freind IMO
Full Member
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 181
Likes: 0
From: miami
Also i try to keep rotating assembly stock all from same motor o.k 9.7.rotors are 90,91 don't use a 95 shaft same goes with gears keep it all the same also remember this is all used stuff that has x amount of mile's with x amount of wear way the pic of shaft looks like wrong bearings go to mazdatrix and see different bearings for different years i think there's 3 . And no at 400hp no mid plate needed just get turbo2 oil cooler and imo like dowels verse studs 4 more 2 at 12 and 2 at 10 with oil pan brace,also this car is not meant for a 14 mile joy ride tune-it and keep-it 1/4mile
I wouldnt want to use much out of that old motor. I would be looking for a pullout to use. Or buy a new (not reman) motor. Japan2la has a RE motor forsale. Around 1600 I think. Nice large ports!
Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 4,152
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From: Pittsburg, KS.
eight.0.eight
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 36
Likes: 0
From: hawaii
cool 675to the fly would be about 700 to the wheel or close. i am trying to look for the same et. also but im trying to do it with a little less hp. to save the motor were figuring it to take about 485 to 500 at the wheel. good luck with it. its a nice ride!
Correction, 675 to the flywheel would be about 580 give or take to the wheel. Also, it depends on chassis setup. He has a full tube chassis cutting 1.2x 60fts, so he doesn't need as much horsepower to run the numbers as lets say a stock chassis or IRS car.
eight.0.eight
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 36
Likes: 0
From: hawaii
thanks for the correction,sorry about the mix up had it backwards. i can only wish for 1.2x 60fts if i could id be that much closer.
Thread Starter
Full Member
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 219
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From: riverside ca
Well I am going to put a twin turbo SBC in something it's just going to be the rx2!!I have an 85 mustang hooked up with all UPR products!he wants to trade me a a 383 hooked up with above average parts,as for a car after the 85 (smog required)mustang is gone,I was just told Monday that someone I had worked with had a 72 (no smog required)nova he will let go cheap!$500 no engine!so there it is my "MAZDA BLUES PROJECT"
United Kingdom
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 53
Likes: 0
From: United Kingdom
Well I am going to put a twin turbo SBC in something it's just going to be the rx2!!I have an 85 mustang hooked up with all UPR products!he wants to trade me a a 383 hooked up with above average parts,as for a car after the 85 (smog required)mustang is gone,I was just told Monday that someone I had worked with had a 72 (no smog required)nova he will let go cheap!$500 no engine!so there it is my "MAZDA BLUES PROJECT"
Junior Member
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 24
Likes: 0
From: brisvegas/aus
The first thing i would do is get rid of the electric pump and replace it with a Waterman mechanical pump.Second would be to have at least 8x 1600lb injectors.
I struggled for ages with 2x Weldon 2025 pumps, on paper they should have been heaps but in real world they were overated pieces of ****.I hate electric fuel pumps!!
I'm currently running 8x 1600lb indy blues(and 2x smaller pre turbo injectors) with the waterman pump at 38psi with 100% methanol . I don't know how much power i've got but the engine is very reliable.
I also think alot of guys run too much ignition timing, at above 20 psi try running 10 deg or less.
If the combo is right and the engine is happy your motors should last. At worst you should only have small issues like the occasional stuck side seal and **** like that.
Keep your chin up dude!!
I struggled for ages with 2x Weldon 2025 pumps, on paper they should have been heaps but in real world they were overated pieces of ****.I hate electric fuel pumps!!
I'm currently running 8x 1600lb indy blues(and 2x smaller pre turbo injectors) with the waterman pump at 38psi with 100% methanol . I don't know how much power i've got but the engine is very reliable.
I also think alot of guys run too much ignition timing, at above 20 psi try running 10 deg or less.
If the combo is right and the engine is happy your motors should last. At worst you should only have small issues like the occasional stuck side seal and **** like that.
Keep your chin up dude!!
IRS Champion
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 2,038
Likes: 1
From: NY
right around 750hp they were done.. Made the switch to Mech pump and have never looked back. it is the only way to go.
Well I am going to put a twin turbo SBC in something it's just going to be the rx2!!I have an 85 mustang hooked up with all UPR products!he wants to trade me a a 383 hooked up with above average parts,as for a car after the 85 (smog required)mustang is gone,I was just told Monday that someone I had worked with had a 72 (no smog required)nova he will let go cheap!$500 no engine!so there it is my "MAZDA BLUES PROJECT"
Let me know if you still want the bearings and regulator. The guy that is hooking me up is off this week too. I misunderstood him.
Full Member
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 60
Likes: 1
From: New Zealand
600whp in a skinny tyre 2350lb car should gow easy high 8's and motor go for ever,just wear the thing out over a few seasons racing,these little motors are bullet proof if built and tuned proper.
doesnt matter what engine you got,shitty V8 or rotary if it aint setup rite it will still **** its pants.
doesnt matter what engine you got,shitty V8 or rotary if it aint setup rite it will still **** its pants.
sorry, trying to read this the way you wrote it was starting to pull on my eyes a bit. this makes it a little better.
okay, let me ask one more time, was the assembly balanced? i know i've seen the same question asked directly and indirectly a few times in this thread, but i don't recall seeing an answer more than "i'm using the counterweights for my rotors" (i paraphrased). if i recall, i think Ultimatejay had said earlier that you and he confirmed it was not an oil issue. so i tend to think your faith in the factory balance (just because the parts match) might be misplaced.
my logic may be overly simple, and i understand that i don't drag race like you guys, but all i'm seeing is a 400+ HP turbo-streetport that doesn't seem to be running more than 8000 RPM (based on your post) with main bearing failures. i'm not sure it's time to be talking about shaft and housing flex yet - unless i'm missing something.
the car is a full chassis,
chris alston chassis works;four link;
fab 9 rear end;
mustang two front suspension;
c4 transmission PA super comp with a low 2.92 first gear;ring and pinion is a 3.50;
it weight of the car with me in it is 2250.1010 pounds on the front axle 1130 on the rear axle;
the fuel system has an aeromotive eliminator pump -10 fuel line to the injectors;-6 return;
lower XS intake manifold;
4 160 pound injectors;
the turbo i use started life as a 60-1 high flow;i had my turbo guy install a 72mm compressor wheel;the hot side is a P trim with a 1.05;
i am running LS1 coils;
the engine management is a heltech E8;
the ports are a RB street intake port with the exhaust port ported to the RB race port lowered to create no more over lap as the stock exhaust port would;timing verification goes as fallows;
i have a RB duel shiv lower pulley;
i installed the pulley made my marks on the flex plate and found out i was about 8 degrees advanced;
counter weights are for the rotors used;
i am running a reactor aluminium flex plate with the FD rear counter weight;
ignition timing is 25 degrees at 8000 rpm at 30 pounds of boost;
on the vacuum side of the map i go from about 25 degrees at idle and advance it to 40 degrees by 3000 rpm;
i take timing away in a straight line from 40 degrees at 8000 rpm to 25 degrees at30 pounds of boost at 8000 rpm;
the e-shaft in this engine was a gsl-se;
the bearings are FD mains and
stock rotor bearings for the 9.7 to 1 rotors
chris alston chassis works;four link;
fab 9 rear end;
mustang two front suspension;
c4 transmission PA super comp with a low 2.92 first gear;ring and pinion is a 3.50;
it weight of the car with me in it is 2250.1010 pounds on the front axle 1130 on the rear axle;
the fuel system has an aeromotive eliminator pump -10 fuel line to the injectors;-6 return;
lower XS intake manifold;
4 160 pound injectors;
the turbo i use started life as a 60-1 high flow;i had my turbo guy install a 72mm compressor wheel;the hot side is a P trim with a 1.05;
i am running LS1 coils;
the engine management is a heltech E8;
the ports are a RB street intake port with the exhaust port ported to the RB race port lowered to create no more over lap as the stock exhaust port would;timing verification goes as fallows;
i have a RB duel shiv lower pulley;
i installed the pulley made my marks on the flex plate and found out i was about 8 degrees advanced;
counter weights are for the rotors used;
i am running a reactor aluminium flex plate with the FD rear counter weight;
ignition timing is 25 degrees at 8000 rpm at 30 pounds of boost;
on the vacuum side of the map i go from about 25 degrees at idle and advance it to 40 degrees by 3000 rpm;
i take timing away in a straight line from 40 degrees at 8000 rpm to 25 degrees at30 pounds of boost at 8000 rpm;
the e-shaft in this engine was a gsl-se;
the bearings are FD mains and
stock rotor bearings for the 9.7 to 1 rotors
my logic may be overly simple, and i understand that i don't drag race like you guys, but all i'm seeing is a 400+ HP turbo-streetport that doesn't seem to be running more than 8000 RPM (based on your post) with main bearing failures. i'm not sure it's time to be talking about shaft and housing flex yet - unless i'm missing something.