installed 2-step,t2 coil + msd6al, did something very wrong
#1
installed 2-step,t2 coil + msd6al, did something very wrong
Today I switched from a hks twin power to the msd6al T2 coil and two step. The car was running perfectly before making the switch, now as soon as I start the car it revs to 8K and stays there. I followed the instructions from this thread https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...highlight=step. I am unsure where I went wrong. I called MSD, what a waste of time that was. The only thing I did that I wasn't sure of was on the T2 coil there was a white dot , I hooked up the front rotor the the left side and the rear rotor to the right side which is the one with the dot. Also i cut the red + blue wires on the msd to set it up for 4 cylinders because the way it came was set up for 8. I unhooked the 2-step and the car still does the same thing. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks
#5
Installing the msd6al and coil was very easy, the two step and relay's needed to make it work on the other hand I think was a little complicated. I disconnected the throttle cable and the car still went to 8k, so I removed the upper intake manifold and checked everything and didn't see anything wrong. While re-installing the intercooler pipe I noticed that the coupler that comes directly off the intercooler and the throttle body side had a gash. Would this be my problem? Thanks for the help
#6
Chasing numbers
iTrader: (5)
Thats not it either. You can take your IC piping out and its not going to rev like that. Could a piece of the couple have come loose and got stuck in the TB? Like they said above nothing is going to make your car rev to 8k but the throttle being open. Its whats got your throttle open you are looking for.
#7
I removed the elbow and the plates were closed and also removed the throttle cable and still had the same result. I am at a loss where to look next? I was thinking that somewhere I wired the two step to be on constantly? Does the msd have to have a rpm pill in the side? Sorry if I'm being a pain just that I'm trying to make it to Englishtown this weekend for Summer Slam. Thanks
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#9
Eats, Sleeps, Dreams Rotary
iTrader: (1)
I removed the elbow and the plates were closed and also removed the throttle cable and still had the same result. I am at a loss where to look next? I was thinking that somewhere I wired the two step to be on constantly? Does the msd have to have a rpm pill in the side? Sorry if I'm being a pain just that I'm trying to make it to Englishtown this weekend for Summer Slam. Thanks
Like we have said, the only way an engine can rev up is to have air/fuel and ignition. Like Ludwig said either you have a throttle blade open or stuck open- past idle position- in your throttle body or a huge vacuum leak. Those are the only two ways for the engine to rev up like this. If you have a problem in your igniton setup, the engine would either not fire up or run like dog ****.
#10
www.lms-efi.com
iTrader: (27)
Ok, lets be real clear here. Is the engine and tach reving up to 8k or just the tachometer reading 8k at idle? If it is the engine, does it rev up real fast or real slow? If it's just the tachometer than you probably set the msd box to 6 or 8 cylinder.
Like we have said, the only way an engine can rev up is to have air/fuel and ignition. Like Ludwig said either you have a throttle blade open or stuck open- past idle position- in your throttle body or a huge vacuum leak. Those are the only two ways for the engine to rev up like this. If you have a problem in your igniton setup, the engine would either not fire up or run like dog ****.
Like we have said, the only way an engine can rev up is to have air/fuel and ignition. Like Ludwig said either you have a throttle blade open or stuck open- past idle position- in your throttle body or a huge vacuum leak. Those are the only two ways for the engine to rev up like this. If you have a problem in your igniton setup, the engine would either not fire up or run like dog ****.
The tach in the FD is driven by the ECU. Changing the ignition box settings should effect it. If the throttle blades are closed then look for a vacuum leak. Did you know the PCV valve hose off the intake while working on it?
#11
its not just the tach the engine is at full throttle and it gets there pretty fast after the car is started. I did take the pcv valve off but I'm sure its reconnected. I will look again for a leak when I get out of work but its single turbo not to many places to check. The map sensor is connected, so is the bov + boost gauge vacuumn line, the vacumn line to the fuel pressure regulator and the pcv valve. I did have to move the oil filler neck? maybe my problem is there? also i did a sensor check in the power fc and everything is good. Thanks again for all the ideas.
#14
Eats, Sleeps, Dreams Rotary
iTrader: (1)
Yep, it will be something easy. Your throttle has to be open partially or maybe you have a massive vacuum leak somewhere around the intake. I would bet it's something to do with your throttle cable or throttle body because in order for it to shoot up to 8k, even the massive vacuum leak is pretty far fetched. A big vacuum leak usually will cause the idle to raise up a little and run rough or not run at all if its big enough. But in order to rev to 8k you have to have added fuel with the added air and this is control by the angle of how much your throttle blades are open, TPS sensor and Map sensor and computer that controls the injectors.
#16
Brake vacume hose is on, I took off the throttle body and noticed that thr turbo 2 coil is hitting the throttle boddy and upper intake manifold. When I cut the bracket thhat holds the coil I didn't cut enough and the coil is not sitting far enough down which is not letting the upper and lower intake manifolds seal completely. There's not a huge gap maybe enough for jusdt the tip of a flat head to fit in but I'll fix it today and see. Thanks again for all the suggestions
#17
Rotary Freak
iTrader: (12)
Brake vacume hose is on, I took off the throttle body and noticed that thr turbo 2 coil is hitting the throttle boddy and upper intake manifold. When I cut the bracket thhat holds the coil I didn't cut enough and the coil is not sitting far enough down which is not letting the upper and lower intake manifolds seal completely. There's not a huge gap maybe enough for jusdt the tip of a flat head to fit in but I'll fix it today and see. Thanks again for all the suggestions
#18
Today I took the upper intake manifold off and cut the coil bracket so that the leading coil sits lower reinstalled everything and no more 8k idle but before I could celebrate the car's idle was at 550 rpms sounding like crap about to die. I checked for spark and the trailing plugs are firing but not the leading. I referred to the msd manual to test for spark it said to tap the white wire to ground with the key in the on position when I did i saw spark jump between the two connectors on the leading coil. After that theres really nothing else in the manual to check. Before today when the car was started it sounded good just instantly jumped to 8k so the leading plugs had to be firing. This is how my wires are connected : The MSD Black wire connects to the TII Coil side (Negative Terminal). The MSD White wire connects to the ignitor side Yellow/Blue. The MSD Orange wire connects to the TII Coil (Positive Terminal). The MSD Red wire connects to the ignitor side Black/Red. Big black wire to ground and big red to 12v source. If the ground from the factory harness that connects to the coil post bracket wasn't good would the trailing coils still give a strong spark? I don't know how I messed this up. Thanks for all the help , on the good side atleast the car isn't at 8k anymore.
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01-30-16 05:50 AM