K just got another PM for some help with this. I made one last diagram without using the horn button and simplifying the clutch switch. For this to work make sure your clutch uses a +12V signal, otherwise you'll need to use a relay to make +12V on clutch depression. Hope this makes more sense, it's been a while since I've worked on my FC so let me know if this jives.



Also re-did the original using the horn button to activate the circuit:

 

I use my cruise control clutch switch for launch control. Mainly because it is used for flatshifting too. gotta have a bit of time for the engine to lose revs when shifting.

 

HELP!
I'm working on the wiring using the push button diagram and I have a couple of questions regarding the clutch switch (starter interlock switch).

The factory wires feeding the S.I.S. are, one blue/white which has 12v when key is turned.
the second wire is black/red, this wire receives the 12v once the S.I.S. pin closes the connection, then that allows the 12v to continue to feed the starter solenoid which starts car.

So I have every thing wired like the diagram and when I try to start the car I get nothing, but if I activate the 2 step switch and press button the car starts!!!
can someone help verify if the drawing is correct?

I cut the S.I.S. on the black/red wire side. I took the wire coming from the S.I.S. and ran wire to #86 pin on the relay, there is also the clutch signal wire on this pin that comes from the 2 step relay.
Pin #85 I have a ground
Pin #30 is to 12v ign. source
Pin #87 is the opposite end of the cut wire from S.I.S., this feeds the black/red

do I need to rearrange the order for one of these??
if I am looking at this correctly it seems that I could use a jumper wire from pin#86 to pin#87 ??

someone please help???

 

Bump for boostedfd3s

 

I PM'ed a mod a while back about changing the first post to reflect the last diagrams, they make a lot more sense...

Sorry I'm a little late. I don't follow what you're saying exactly, but all you need is to route +12V when the clutch is depressed (sounds like the black/red wire you mentioned?) as per diagram to pin 30 on the "2-step relay". Make sure to splice only though, so you don't disrupt the normal flow to the relay for your starter circuit.

Now as for the car starting when the push-button is engaged. YES. If you turn the key while you have the momentary switch pushed down (and the "staging switch" allowing flow through), the jumper wire that is keeping the "2-step relay" circuit open will allow the 12v push-switch to power the starter relay without the clutch. If the clutch is not powering the same relay to allow it to start, then you did something wrong, because that connection in green should be simply a splice/tee in the wiring. Nothing else in the Starter interlock circuits should be touched except for teeing into that +12V after pushing the clutch.

 

My god, this thread went into ignition wiring pretty heavily...

I came here looking for where/how to connect a line locker hydraulically under the rear of the FD...

 

thanks Trot... I was able to figure this out awhile back. I ended up bypassing the clutch pedal, for some strange reason the car does not start when connected to the relay. So when I bypass the relay the car starts fine...
the two step and line lock work great!

 

sk8world, why dont you use the built-in 2-step that comes with the Adaptronic?

 

Why are you trying to install a line lock under the rear?

You need to lock the front wheels.

 

Installing the linelock on the rear brakes allows you to use the brake pedal for control. You can modulate instead of have it on/off like on the fronts.

 

I will, I just sold my msd kit I made and bumped this thread fir that guy. I havent installed the adaptronic yet

 

My line look is on the rear brakes. So when I do a burn out no brake pressure goes to the rear brakes. This allows me to modulate the front brakes as the car goes through the water area. Makes doing a burn out smooth IMO. left foot brake.

 

With the linelock on the front brakes you can apply the lock and pre-load your driveline though. Kinda hard to do that without 3 feet when it's on the rears

That was one of the points for me drawing these up anyways, to have the fronts release with the clutch so you can pre-load without creeping, and not have to time it or anything, just focus on the lights...

 

With it on the rear, you also have to hold the brake pedal to do a burnout. Much easier to work two pedals and a button than three pedals.

 

100% disagree. I guess it comes done to coordination.

 

Anyone using the msd launch master? Its for two coils. I'm switching to 4 aem smart coils. Thought this might work.

 

Sorry it's the 4351 version

 

Bump

 

Great thread. I am selling a brand new-in-box line lock real cheap.