Big88chevy

iTrader: (5)

I couple days ago i made the decision to change direction with my fc. I got very lucky and now have a DD so the 7 is now uninsured and going to be a dedicated race car. I originally built it to drift and it was great but i need to get back to my roots lol. >>> I need to know if there is anything i should attend to that is a weak point on the Fc for Drag racing.

The car has a 13bt and is currently tuned for about 400 but will be re-tuned for about 550whp.


The car currently has the stock T2 trans, ive read conflicting reports that this trans is fairly strong and can take some power, then some say 400whp is the max. Will the trans be a weak point?

Im going with the Grannys solid rear with a ford 8.8, i spoke to them and i know the kit is not %100 for drag racing but does anyone know about any wheel hop problems or body roll problems with this kit?

I know there are a lot of opinions but is there a suspension you guys recommend? i was looking at Qa1's but that is going to be a custom job and im trying to keep costs somewhat bearable

beefcake

id use the tranny till you bust it up a few times, untill you or we get to see your driving style then know one will know if the factory box will be good enough for what you need .
Mines ok so far for stupid 10 sec passes , i shift soft an gay though
an im sure the rear end will be good enough as plenty of the V8 brigade use them fine .

Id do my best in gutting the car though, get it down to 2100 pounds or less and your driveline is going to be helped buy not lugging the weight

Big88chevy

iTrader: (5)

2100lbs!! wow thats gonna take a ton of stripping

levelzero

iTrader: (1)

It can be done. Especially in a dedicated drag car that never sees the street. In mine I'm aiming for 1950 wet, so just under 2200 with driver.

beefcake

yep its a call you gotta make, drag car or street car, if you dont have plates/tags on it any more, then cut out any ****** that going for a free ride, no interior, no dash no nothing , bare metal **** everywhere, and replace anything you can with lightweight options if avail .
If your keeping it licenced, then you'll have to spend money in a tough driveline

a few pics to give you a idea

ultimatejay

iTrader: (1)

I see a heavy window motor that can be removed.
Lexan windows all around saves alot of weight too. Remove all the door innners and even the support bars. Remove all the insulation pad/mat from the floor/underbody. It all adds up.

Hey Beefcake, that rust on the roll bars is adding weight.

beefcake

haha yeh that was just before i got it painted, damn didnt know moly pipe would do that so quick , its all painted now, and yeh that elec window is going now as well, is got plexi side glass tha tfits the factoey runners so thats the only reason i left in the motor an cables, but now im gonna screw it in and be done with the rest of the junk

ultimatejay

iTrader: (1)

Hehehe. Hey, what do you have the rear view mirror for when everyone is in front of you?

Big88chevy

iTrader: (5)

I dont know if i want to completely gut it, simply because i think it would be kinda different to have almost a full interior car. But, if i can shave off a couple 100lbs it might be worth it. Also i talked to grannys about my rear setup and somehow the kit jumped to $1735 with out the rear so its gonna take me a little longer to get it now.

beefcake

yeh i know , but its in there for helping reverse me up, so i dont need someone to run out infront of me and back me up , also i can see if me chute is deployed, as im not going fast enough to tell if its out yet

ultimatejay

iTrader: (1)

Haha, I'm just playing. I like your car alot. I think if I were to build a street car it would be a second gen. I love the bodystyle.

wjk0817

iTrader: (3)

soon all the dd fc will extict and become gutted out race cars

beefcake

sweet
And i know Mr Ultimatejay , i love a good stir, understood totally where you were coming from But funny thing is all of the other rota racers in my state are usually infront of me during the race , i only got past them when they had issues

Big88chevy

iTrader: (5)

Im not completely gutting, im going to keep the option of insuring at another time

levelzero

iTrader: (1)

In street trim you're going to have a really hard time getting it below 2500. My s5 in street trim is 1650. I could go with lighter wheels, racing seats, light weight batter and a few small things but all of those wouldn't add up to more then maybe 120 lbs.

Personally I made the decision a while ago to just get a second fc and have a nice streetable car and a dedicated track car. I'm lucky though and have the space for it.

sen2two

iTrader: (10)

It's pretty easy to get below 2500lbs... Weights range a a little here and there between model and years, but an average weight is about 2700lbs stock.

You lose a ton of weight from a nice exhaust alone. Fuel cell, AC/PS, smog, and all associated parts will drop a lot more. If you have a base model or a model with no power options, you should be at about 2500 with just that done alone.

ultimatejay

iTrader: (1)

^ that has to be a typo. No way your car weighs 1650lbs

sen2two

iTrader: (10)

I was guessing he meant 2650.

levelzero

iTrader: (1)

Yeah thats a typo. 2650 on the scales at the track. It's a gxl so the power options weight it down, but that was with no passenger seat, no PS/AC, Aluminium hood and a few other minor weight reductions as well as only a 1/8th of a tank of gas. A sports model would be a lot easier to get sub 2500, but for a gxl it's going to be hard if you still want it to appear like a street car.

sen2two

iTrader: (10)

When you removed the AC. Is that all the stuff under the hood including the condenser, and everything under the dash including the heater core, blower motor, ect? That stuff adds up also.

Removing the AC is a lot of weight. But the best weight loss by far is the exhaust. Go single exhaust for sure. I have just a downpipe then a muffler. It's not really any louder than having all the extra piping to exit out the rear of the car. Big weight savings, and helped spool like you wouldnt believe.

beefcake

for now if your keeping the irs, get the stiffest rear springs an shocks in the back you possibly can, you don't want to get massive squat with the irs, its gonna help try and keep the back end simple .
Also chuck a camber link in it, wind it to max positive you can, they wont be able to achieve positive camber but it will get close .
Slap in some dts eliminators in the rear as well, but apart from that leave the rest stock as it comes, If i was you and its now a track car, id just run a exhaust pipe out under the drivers door, if you need to road it later then just make a new exhaust.
A set of front runners with real mans slicks down back, and seriously you only need a set of 26x8.5 to have fun, chucking in wider rear tyres is just going to load up your stock rear end way too much .\\

Most importantly get up some skid vids, we all crave skids and launches

Big88chevy

iTrader: (5)

the car has absolutely no options lol. i already got rid of ac and stock exhaust plus it doesnt have Ps. I drove the car on the street with the irs and i hated it, ive driven trucks and muscle cars mostly and i just want to go back to the solid rear. I dont plan on tubing it, i dont plan on lexan anywhere and i also dont plan on the car going faster than a high 9.

beefcake

that shouldnt be too hard a task then especially with the solid rear end, i wouldnt worry about the box untill you try it a few times, and there is also the possibility of putting a c4 auto behind it or a tricked up and trans braked mazda auto, at least that will fit with no mods

Big88chevy

iTrader: (5)

I may be able to get my hands on a blown T56 but i dont know if its worth the trouble.

sen2two

iTrader: (10)

T5 is a much cheaper and easier option. The Problem is those trannies do not like to be shifted where these motors need to be taken. I have looked into the T5, T56, T45, all supra/toyota trannies, and a few others. A few of those are stronger than the TII, up to 7k rpm though. Anything after that, they get real weak.

After everything, it still seems that the TII tranny is the best option for stock transmissions.