I thought the Kaaz diff was indestructable as long as you were within about 600hp. I think my car is about 500 hp and launched at the track today with MT street ET's with a burnout of 180 degrees. I did pretty much drop the clutch from 7500 rpms like I normally do but this time the track was a little stickier then I have ever seen it.


Anyways, I blew it so whats the next step? Anything a little stronger I can go with? Anyone know what the guys who run 9's use?

 

You need someone to build you a diff. cage. If you can call up Ray Wilson(www.PFSupercars.com), he may be able to tell you more about it. Kaaz diffs are fine.

Dee E.

 

cobra rear ?

 

What do you guys think about just welding the diff so it's a solid rear axel. I very rarely drive the car unless its a car show or a race. How bad is it to drive the car then?

Can I weld the Kaaz diff or do I need the stock diff parts?

 

Weve had great success with the Carbonetic (ATS) diffs, the metal 2 way is the best for drag racing.

 

did you blow up the kaaz diff itself or break the mazda R/E housing??? do you have a pic?

 

I'm curious about this as well.

 

I will find out in the next day or so....I jacked up the car and everything looked ok.....I have to work today...but tomorrow we will pull it apart. Thanks for responding Ari, I was going to call you tomorrow once I figured out what I did too see how I can prevent it next time.

 

With out oil pouring out it sounds more like axle broke. I find it hard to belive the kazz broke before anything else!

 

Well, I do have Chromoly Axels from the driveshaft shop.....plus the diff doesn't make the clicking noise when you turn corners anymore.......

Here's a video of the run..

http://videos.streetfire.net/video/e...4400f0b50d.htm

 

Any updates?

You should have your head checked for completing that pass at anything more than a crawl. You could've put your life in jeopardy.

 

I will have updates tomorrow.

The thought of me being in danger didn't occur until right about the finish line where it was very hard to control it. All I could think about is trying to qualify and fix it before first round!

 

It looks like axel you were pulling hard off center but it still was pulling maybe half the diff let go. Any way hope its not too bad to fix!

 

That is most likely the inner stub of the axle that broke and part is in the rear still. It's not the rear or the shaft of the chromoly axle. You are not hearing any noise since only one side of the rear is turning.

Anthony

 

Any news Mike?

 

We (Precision Import Repair) didn't tear it apart since I had a huge car show to go to this weekend. So I drove it there on one wheel! Took best "Tuner" and got a 5 ft trophy which was cool! So, now I'm about to get off my lazy *** and take the car over there and check it out. Will update as soon as I find out.

 

Here's the damage......

Looks like I did break the Chromoly Axel. We spend hours trying to get the axel to come out and looks like we tried a little too hard cuz we ended up accidently breaking the pumkin too trying to get it out. Tried to press the axel out of the Kaaz but it ain't budging. Was told the Kaaz is no good.......so


Does this look like I'm buying

New Axel?
New Pumpkin?
New Kaaz?


Starting to look like this is going to cost at least $2000 and who knows if this will happen again. Any ideas?

Here's the pic's
http://s2.photobucket.com/albums/y34...roken%20Parts/

 

Looks like a melted them!

 

No axle just the inner CV stub plus the diff.

 

Is this pretty common? What else could I have done? I guessing I'm only about 500hp....what are the 650+ hp guys doing?

 

Try using a press to push it out from the other side. And i dont think the stub axle is molly. What kind of 60's do you pull, i have been pulling 1.52 on stock stuff, it will break some day but i dont just slip my foot of the clutch and wait to see what happens. Any way good luck on getting it back in one piece.

 

What are you using for a two step?

 

Ahhh, see... I thought you broke the axle. You seem to have had some fun taking it apart, , J.K.
It shouldn't cost you that much to repair, although that depends on the Kaaz. You can't get the stub out of the center plate? If you can, check the splines in the Kaaz for wear or burrs. And clean all the floating debris out of the clutches. It looks pretty bad, so you may have to replace the Kaaz. You can find a used diff case on this forum for a couple hundred bucks, usually. That will give you the case, ring and pinion, and bearings, etc...(as long as the diff is in good shape). Then you just need a Kaaz (maybe, depending on previous), and here's how you keep this from happening again....

Buy some NEW inner cups from Mazdaspeed motorsports (these are few and far between, Ari and I have had trouble finding them in the past due to availability. You may have to buy the whole axle to get them). Send them to a company called "300 Below" in Illinois (or comprable place) to get cryo treated properly(it's not that expensive), and then install them. Do not swap sides once you have installed them, or cryo used ones, they WILL break again. This will fix your problem, guarunteed. Give me a call if you need.
I feel ya...been there .

 

Since my 2 step on my datalogit sucks *** and always freezes....I have been launching off of Rev limiter. I set the Rev limiter to 7500 rpms and pretty much drop the clutch with 16 lbs of air in the tire (trying to be safe) By doing this I usually get a 1.55 60ft as long as I get the tires pretty warm. The tire temp was exactly 180 degrees.


After breaking this....I will have to rethink my launching technique to something thats not so hard on the poor car!

 

The problem with that type of limiter is that it's not like the two step or soft touch limiter as it's known on the popular ignition boxes. The limiters on most ecu's are exactly what they are supposed to be, just limiters. They are too harsh by going in and out at such a slow sequence in that it's a hit and miss when you release the clutch. Depending on the release time of the clutch the rpm can be droping at the same time which results in the same effect as what would happen when you do what's call a neutral drop on an auto tranny vechicle.
Do your pocket and drivetrain a huge favor and get a proper two step installed.