Ok, so another silly question...If wheel/axle hop is what mainly causes the diff to break (seems to be the general consensus), is there a way to stop/minimize wheel hop? What about trailing arms and new rear diff bushings?

 

Trailing arms, toe links, and diff bushings will all help reduce wheel hop.

 

Thanks.

 

A bias ply tire will make the biggest difference for wheel hop.

 

Also keep ride height as stock as possible not to low

 

Remove ALL slack from the entire drive train. Solid mounts throughout the entire drive train (motor, tranny, diff) and a pinion snubber. This will only cost a little over $100 to do and save you 10 times that in broken parts...


EDIT: Noticed this was a FD not an FC. I am unsrure if you can put a pinion snubber for the FD diff? A diff brace helps a lot also... Banzai you still making those?

 

^ He has our diff brace installed in his car, it is listed in the very first post

 

Thanks guys. Yep, I do have the diff brace, and my solid diff bushings are on the way along with rear trailing arms. I'll do toe links as well, and am looking into motor mounts/tranny bushings.

 

There are no trans bushings on the FD, we did just release a trans brace however. http://banzai-racing.com/store/FD_trans_brace.html

Motor mounts http://banzai-racing.com/store/FD_po...or_mounts.html

 

Great information, thanks!!

 

i can't seem to find that sweet spot on my car. I havn't had the diff break but i'm on my third tranny. Each time it breaks the output shaft. Maybe i just really suck at driving lol

 

Oh really? I haven't broken a tranny (or rear diff) yet. Maybe I'm just lucky?

 

I broke the input shaft at the track a couple of weeks ago, was in 4th gear when the power piled on, but then again it has be royally abused in 4 years not bad going for a stock box, I launch off the handbrake at 7K with MT streets,Kazz diff. I broke and replaced the left axle bar a couple of runs before the gearbox broke. If you aint breaking it you dont have enough power lol

 

i'm still running the stock twins lol. I think my biggest problem is the drag radials.

 

LOL! Yep, that'll do it! :P So you ran the time in your sig with 470RWHP? If so, damn nice time and trap speed man!! I'm hoping to get to the quarter mile track a week from tomorrow and get my 10 second slip, so we shall see.

I know I've got the power...Now I just need to pray that it all holds together!

 

I'd start from ten, and count down to zero.

 

yip thats right with 470rwhp , the power was recorded on a dyna dynamics which records lower figures then a dynojet

 

Ahh, ok. So a Mustang dyno as we say? :P Either way, very nice times!! I’m just hoping to get anywhere in the 10s, which I know I’m going to have to launch the hell out of the car to do it. So you were probably closer to my power level as opposed to 470RWHP.

 

You guys know that a set of real shocks built for drag will help control wheel hop, and I am not talking about crap like tein, koni, HKS and all that crap. A high quality set custom built specifically for a drag/your setup. Alot of people will spend all kind of money on motor and everything else but always seem to go cheap on the one part that everything goes thru to put power down. Weight transfer and control are huge but always seems to get over looked.

 

^ LOL...I'm going to guess that you are the guy that I ran into down @ KDR either last year (or maybe the year before) that works for Penske racing and makes those shocks. :P

If you are the same individual, you seemed to think that those were the be all, end all answer to RX-7 suspension...Nothing wrong with that, but you have a vested interest in that specific suspension, so naturally you are going to call everything else "cheap." It's all relative...

IIRC, the Penske suspension setup costs something ridiculous like ~5k, or in that ballpark (maybe more, I can't recall to be honest. I just remember that it was VERY expensive). I'm not at all saying that it's not worth it, just that *most* people aren't ready/willing to drop that kind of cash on suspension.

Nevertheless, I do agree with you that suspension and weight distribution are 2 critical aspects, and are often overlooked.

 

Actually they have a new double adjustable setup that is around 2800. I dont think that is really ridiculas considering its the same technology, components and quality that is used in all professional motorsports including F1, IRL, NASCAR, ROLEX NHRA, ADRL and IHRA ETC, ETC. I never said it the end all be all however it would be a huge part. Most people dont think twice about money spent on other items such as diffs/engines, clutches, wheels, tires etc. and dampers are always overlooked.All I am saying is that you can achieve huge gains with a properly built set of dampers and can control a level of wheel hop with a proper amount of LS Rebound damping.

 

^^^^ Dude I dont have wheel hop, I spent good money on HKS Drag Coilover setup with petit launch kit (toe links , bars), hence my 1.4 60fts

What causing my breakages is a lot of power and traction, the gearbox is the weak link on my setup

 

I agree that suspension is EXTREMELY important, and very often overlooked...$2800 is a bit more reasonable than 5+k. For some reason, I was thinking the cost was significantly higher for the Penske suspension. :P

 

im with blitzy , my choice of hks may seem cheap in some peoples circles but my 1.32 60ft is not to shabby for now. Just got no power for now to drive it home for the low 9s i want

Also Mr gilesr6 is spot on in saying that correct selection and application of suspension will reap more rewards than chucking in more boost , thats my assumption of what im thinking you are saying

 

Hey beefcake, how much power are you making @ 21 psi? Judging by your ET and trap speed you're probably somewhere up around 650RWHP?