http://www.devcon.com =) Plenty to read there. Interesting products !

B

 

http://www.devcon.com =)

B

 

After reading this thread It made me go out and hog out my TB. Now it looks like Kurgans

 

Why does everyone stay with the mazda divided upper and TB instead of making and upper using an aftermarket single butterfly TB. Maybe some work to it, but I would like to do it to see the difference. You guys have to remember the old Jay tech manifolds right?

Patrick

 

[QUOTE]Originally posted by BDC
[B]It'll work fine for an NA. As far as removing the thermowax and the coolant lines, you can either route a new hose directly from the back of the water pump to the rear iron housing or you can plug both ends and be done with it (preferred).

What do you suggest to plug the two ends? JB Weld?

 

i tend to side w/ anthony on this one, the porting itself doesn't seem to do much when the bottleneck is on the lower manifold. i can see how taking off the secondary butterflies would help flow, but the porting would seem to make minimal gain in that the tb's themselves are the same size. i don't see how it affects intake velocity much as the original design is actually quite good and blends pretty well. just my opinion

 

I don't think it's done to gain lots of hp, just to gain throttle responce.

 

BDC? I have an 89GXL with agressive ported manifolds all the way down to the engine block matched to the engine ports. I also have filter intake anc streight pipe exaust. Well My ? is will this TB porting give me anymore TOP END. Because thats what im after? even 3 flywheel horsepower would justify it. I was thinking about getting the FC3S.org ones for 135

 

s

 

[QUOTE]Originally posted by silverrotor
[B]What can I do for the above?

 

Its probly easier to reroute the pump line from the engine to the pump using the bac as the route. Works great. for me. I left the thermowax on but just disconected.

 

If I choose to re-route the water hose I will take It from the rear rotor housing all the way to the water pump bypassing the BAC Valve. However, I want to plug It up. Has anybody done what I want to do?

 

Well your blocking radiator flow that may be bad for it or cause the pump to work harder. Hell I dont know but it just seems like it. And if you have you bac on still I think it would look better to just route it through thier. It like passes right by it anyways so why not? Also I think the bac needs to warm up or something to function properly. But this could be BS from mazdatrix. Some girl ansewered the phone.

Does anyone know if blocking the BAC off wile using the airpump will cause idle problems??? I dont have A/C or PS. Mazdatrix told me this would be bad

 

To my understanding, the one and only reason why the hose, the one leading from thermowax to the Bac Valve, Is there Is to warm It up the Bac Valve quicker, under Icy conditions, providing you live In such a climate. So, In your case, living In sunny California, that Is completely Irrelivant to you. Heck, so Is the Sub Zero Start. I'd remove both If I were you.

Also, the Bac Valve Is no good to you again b'c of the removal of the A/C and P/S. Looks to me you have lots of work ahead of you.

 

RRRR ( mazdatrix told me that with an airpump the BAC would give me crap idle??? I wish I took that thing off years ago. And Im only using the BAC as a way to route my coolant. Thiers no difference between that and passing it. BUT I do wish that bac wasnt thier...I think my cold start is gone but I dont know. I have the thermowax disconected, The 3k start up disconected , cruised control A/C P/S but still have Air Pump with a working ACV system.

 

i doubt it's gonna give you any hp cause the tb's aren't a bottleneck.