Spool Up vs. Peak Power
Hey Guys,
First off this is my first post. I'm brand new to RX7's, rotaries and, well for the most part, turbos. However, I have been "hotrodding" cars since I was 10. I've got a 1997 Dodge Stratus with a swapped motor (2.4L), close ratio tranny, boltons and a 75 shot. I also own a autoX/roadcourse prepared 95 Accord. I do all the work on my cars and have finally decided to jump into the rotary world with both feet.
The more and more I researched about the FC3S, the more and more I was impressed. After being a silent member on this board for awhile and researching the FC3S, I found a decent example for a couple hundred dollars, bones or clams or whatever you want to call them.
The car has the TII drivetrain with no motor, no hood, barely any rust and a crappy interior. However, I plan to rip out the interior completely (save the dash) and will be installing either a CF or AL N/A hood.
Here are the prerequisites,
- I want a FC to rip up the backroads of GA (this will not be a 1/4 mile car)
- I prefer for it to have quick spoolup
- I also would prefer for it to push 300+hp
- The FCwill utilize a standalone EMS
- The 13BT will also utilize an Air to Liquid intercooler (I know it's complex but I like complex)
- I will be running a larger radiator, and possibly twin oil coolers (still contemplating different cooling ideas)
- The car will not be a daily driver but rather a weekend warrior capable of 100+ mile runs from Macon to Athens
Here are my questions that I haven't found definitive answers for yet, despite the search "option."
-Is there a turbo, which spools early (3000rpm) and smoothly/progressively but will push the motor past the 300hp mark?
- Is the 60-1 HiFi that turbo?
- Is it possible that a twin turbo setup will make for a better car in the turns? (This is a last resort....I don't like this idea)
I think these are my only questions for now.....
Thanks for any future help,
Will
ps. the car is still on the drawing board for the most part, the only definite things are the air to liquid, standalone and the fact that it won't "live life one 1/4 mile at a time."
First off this is my first post. I'm brand new to RX7's, rotaries and, well for the most part, turbos. However, I have been "hotrodding" cars since I was 10. I've got a 1997 Dodge Stratus with a swapped motor (2.4L), close ratio tranny, boltons and a 75 shot. I also own a autoX/roadcourse prepared 95 Accord. I do all the work on my cars and have finally decided to jump into the rotary world with both feet.
The more and more I researched about the FC3S, the more and more I was impressed. After being a silent member on this board for awhile and researching the FC3S, I found a decent example for a couple hundred dollars, bones or clams or whatever you want to call them.
The car has the TII drivetrain with no motor, no hood, barely any rust and a crappy interior. However, I plan to rip out the interior completely (save the dash) and will be installing either a CF or AL N/A hood.
Here are the prerequisites,
- I want a FC to rip up the backroads of GA (this will not be a 1/4 mile car)
- I prefer for it to have quick spoolup
- I also would prefer for it to push 300+hp
- The FCwill utilize a standalone EMS
- The 13BT will also utilize an Air to Liquid intercooler (I know it's complex but I like complex)
- I will be running a larger radiator, and possibly twin oil coolers (still contemplating different cooling ideas)
- The car will not be a daily driver but rather a weekend warrior capable of 100+ mile runs from Macon to Athens
Here are my questions that I haven't found definitive answers for yet, despite the search "option."
-Is there a turbo, which spools early (3000rpm) and smoothly/progressively but will push the motor past the 300hp mark?
- Is the 60-1 HiFi that turbo?
- Is it possible that a twin turbo setup will make for a better car in the turns? (This is a last resort....I don't like this idea)
I think these are my only questions for now.....
Thanks for any future help,
Will
ps. the car is still on the drawing board for the most part, the only definite things are the air to liquid, standalone and the fact that it won't "live life one 1/4 mile at a time."
A mild or large street port, and a T04E 60 trim is what your after (and all the mods that go along with it, fuel, ems, plumbing etc.).
get a T04e 60 trim compressor in a .6 A/R front housing and a P-Trim turbine with either a .84 or 1.00 A/R dvided turbine housing with a divided manifold, or cheaper (but less boost response and top end) get the .96a/r non divided turbine with the HKS non divided manifold.
the water to air in my opinion is a HUGE waste of money, time and weight penalty with NO gains except when you run an ice tank, and the ice last a matter of minutes before it goes to ambient temps. its only good for strip action were you can keep it cold by constantly replenishing the ice between runs. With water to air with a heat exchanger your not going to see any thing even close to ambient temps (neither will you with a air to air) so whats the point in it
~Mike..............
get a T04e 60 trim compressor in a .6 A/R front housing and a P-Trim turbine with either a .84 or 1.00 A/R dvided turbine housing with a divided manifold, or cheaper (but less boost response and top end) get the .96a/r non divided turbine with the HKS non divided manifold.
the water to air in my opinion is a HUGE waste of money, time and weight penalty with NO gains except when you run an ice tank, and the ice last a matter of minutes before it goes to ambient temps. its only good for strip action were you can keep it cold by constantly replenishing the ice between runs. With water to air with a heat exchanger your not going to see any thing even close to ambient temps (neither will you with a air to air) so whats the point in it
~Mike..............
The air to liquid is more or less a theory I want to prove.....I've always been intrigued by the idea of an air to liquid design for periods of use longer than a 1/4mile.
But here are the plus sides that I see
- other than complexity, I can't find too many reasons to go with an air to air design over the liquid
- depending on where I decide to mount the system's radiator, I could possibly leave the engine's radiator the entire flow of air from the nose.
- this system will need to work somewhat efficiently for only 1 hr. to 1.5hrs. (which can also be argued the other way)
The main reason is I just want to make sure the engine runs a cool as possible. Thanks for the reply as to the size of the turbo, I am still learning the why and how of porting rotaries........ Still unsure as to what the gains and tradeoffs are when porting them.
Oh and last thing, With an optimum street port and the "T04e 60 trim compressor in a .6 A/R front housing and a P-Trim turbine with either a .84 or 1.00 A/R dvided turbine housing with a divided manifold" turbo setup (upgraded manifold, ballbearing turbo, large exhaust and downpipe, w good ems tuning) How early and progressively would the boost come?
THanks for the help guys. I really appreciate all constructive criticism since I'm totally new to this animal,
Will
ps. I fully understand that I will need a supporting cast of parts (fuel system upgrade, clutch etc etc...). Right now I'm just stripping the car down to the unibody.
But here are the plus sides that I see
- other than complexity, I can't find too many reasons to go with an air to air design over the liquid
- depending on where I decide to mount the system's radiator, I could possibly leave the engine's radiator the entire flow of air from the nose.
- this system will need to work somewhat efficiently for only 1 hr. to 1.5hrs. (which can also be argued the other way)
The main reason is I just want to make sure the engine runs a cool as possible. Thanks for the reply as to the size of the turbo, I am still learning the why and how of porting rotaries........ Still unsure as to what the gains and tradeoffs are when porting them.
Oh and last thing, With an optimum street port and the "T04e 60 trim compressor in a .6 A/R front housing and a P-Trim turbine with either a .84 or 1.00 A/R dvided turbine housing with a divided manifold" turbo setup (upgraded manifold, ballbearing turbo, large exhaust and downpipe, w good ems tuning) How early and progressively would the boost come?
THanks for the help guys. I really appreciate all constructive criticism since I'm totally new to this animal,
Will
ps. I fully understand that I will need a supporting cast of parts (fuel system upgrade, clutch etc etc...). Right now I'm just stripping the car down to the unibody.
Last edited by JunkyardFC; Jan 20, 2004 at 06:50 PM.
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I think you should go with a hybrid TII turbo and a street port. Use the stock exhaust side with some type of T04 compressor. It'll have full boost by 3000rpm and the turbo will max out around 350rwhp. You can use the stock TII manifold and use a ported stock wastegate. It's easily the cheapest option, and will give you exactly what you were asking for. Also, since you aren't spending as much $ on that, you can put a lot more into suspension.




