I really wish that someone would try this with a TB eqipped IDA manifold, or liek the one that I am designing.
And get rid of the actuating rods and put in something like a throttle stop controlled by a servo or something like that.
Maybe I will build this before I go turbo

 

Thank you Adam. The visual aid helped me out quite a bit.

 

The ports DO close completely w/ the sleeves in the pre-actuation position, correct adam?

 

Justin,

I am planning doing something with FBW throttles at some point. Maybe 12months maybe several years.

Depends if I decide to do a servo wastegate first and when funds to rebuild my 6-port appear.

Oh and if I can find a tame fabricator.

 

https://www.rx7club.com/forum/showth...hreadid=232394

With the new info... I'm thinking 4-port.

 

Im selling my aux bridge motor to someone who is doign just that. Weber carb, 12A dizzy, and its going in an SA. If it all works out, that car is gonna scream.

Liquid, I dont think a SP 4 port will make the power of a SP 6 port. The stock n/a manifolds arent good for power, and I strongly believe the manifold is the reason we see VERY few n/a's break the 200 rwhp mark. Im awaiting dyno tests of 2 SP 6 port motors with standalones, and the TWM TB and manifold(basically a weber using fuel injectin instead of carb). I feel confident theyre goign to see over 200 rwhp, and Im hoping to see WELL over 200 rwhp with mine.

At this point, I must ask why stay n/a? If power is all youre going after, you are goign the wrong direction. If you have something to prove, stand in line and if you just prefer the way n/a's drive over turbos, be prepared to spend more money for a slower car.

 

bridgeporting a 6port engine using the stock ecu with some mods works really well.

 

Are you referring to the full bridge one you built?

My aux bridge did not work well on my S5. Im sure it didnt help that the AFM was maxed by 5K rpm...

 

It won't STAY N/A... I want 13's N/A... then it's nitrous time.

Ito, I'd really like to hear more about your 6-Port BP's; Spacifically the S5

 

Thats all I needed to hear. You will want to use an exhaust port like mine, unless you have to pass emissions. Nitrous needs good exhaust flow. With good exhaust flow, rotaries like nitrous a lot. My current motor could take a 300 shot without blinking(with the fuel to support it). But Im going a different route.

I talked to scathcart a lot about building a motor for lots of nitrous, so I definately know what im talkign about here. Big porting on the exhaust is necessary for a large shot, but helps considerably with any amount of nitrous. You will also want hardened stat gears(S5 ones are factory hardened), cryogenic treatment would be a good idea to prolong their life. Race bearings are a must, as are high oil pressure. Im running a TII oil pump, FD rear regulator, and the front regulator shimmed for 105-110 PSI, along with modded oil jets, type 2 main bearings, grooved S5 stat gears. I see 65 psi at idle, and 110 psi by 2000 rpm. Thats the main priorities aside from fuel for running lots of nitrous. Youll need to retard your timing, but thats standard for nitrous.

In this case, a 4 port would probably work well for you. Go as big as you can on the intake porting, and youll shouldnt have a problem hitting 13's n/a.

 

Which Race Bearings? Also, after further investigation; S5 can't use S6 rotor bearings.

Is there anywhere to buy the MFR bearings for cheaper than the... what... $100+ a pop Mazdatrix wants for them?

 

I only need 250HP to get into the low 11's so NA is good for me :-)

 

Any dynoed HP numbers?
Any 1/4 trap speed?

Just curious on 6 port.

 

Ito (and Adam); the problem would be solved by putting a bridge on both endplate ports... correct?

 

That removes the issue with the difference in port timing causing interference in the runner, but the n/a manifolds do NOT flow well enough to properly support that sort of port. Especially the S5 manifold. Thats not sayign it wont make better power than a SP(because it will), but it will be nowhere near the potential of that port.

An example would be using a stock FC turbo on a full bridge 13B. It would run, and it would make more power than a milder motor, but the turbo will be limiting power.

On a side note, a guy Rotarygod knows/knew built a motor like that for a drag car. Its power peak was somewhere around 11K, and he shifted at 12K. You definately cannot do that with a street car, without some MAJOR work. The loss of low end would cause problems with every day drivability.

 

One more thing. The car I mentioned was running on a carb, and the short manifold, so that had somethign to do with its power peak. With an optomized manifold, you could definately get the power peak to be usable. But you already said youre limited to stock manifolds. If youre considering a half bridge motor, I would recommend a 4 port for that reason. But all this is beside the point if you only want to run 13's. A SP 6 port with the right supporting mods will do it all day long.