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View Poll Results: best short shifter
C's
11
9.91%
Pettit
6
5.41%
Mazdatrix
29
26.13%
Mazdaspeed
32
28.83%
B & M
33
29.73%
Voters: 111. You may not vote on this poll

Which short shifter works best

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Old 01-25-02, 08:46 PM
  #26  
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Originally posted by peejay


I stopped having that problem altogether when I put in an engine brace! With the stock floppy engine mounts the engine and transmission can move around a lot when you accelerate or let off, so you have no idea where the shifter is going to slot in when you shift. Once it's locked down with a brace, it ain't moving!
How much did it cost you to put in the engine brace?

1FAST7
Old 01-25-02, 09:28 PM
  #27  
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Well I did it backyard engineering style on my SA. I bought a 3' or so length of steel cable (I think it was 3/16", might have been 1/8")and a couple cable clamps, made a loop at one end and bolted it behind the lift eye at the front housing, then made a loop at the other end and bolted it to one of the left side strut studs. I put a good amount of preload on it so the engine wouldn't torque over on acceleration, but the cable stretched over a couple drag nights so I had to make the cable shorter again. Total cost - $2. RB will sell you a torque brace for something like $50-80 (not sure at all) but this does the same thing.

Another side-effect it had was reducing GREATLY tirespin on the 1-2 shift. Since the engine doesn't bounce side to side anymore when you let off and get on it again, it doesn't shock the tires as much.

Before you do any of that though, try relaxing and focusing on shifting quickly and smoothly instead of jamming it in gear. (the best description I heard was "The shift **** is a raw egg, don't break it!") A lot of the problem is the way the shift rails and forks are designed in the transmission, too, but if you shift cleanly you'll go through OK.
Old 01-26-02, 12:56 AM
  #28  
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I stopped having that problem altogether when I put in an engine brace! With the stock floppy engine mounts the engine and transmission can move around a lot when you accelerate or let off, so you have no idea where the shifter is going to slot in when you shift. Once it's locked down with a brace, it ain't moving!
Thanks for that. I had plans to get a brace/strut bar from Mazdatrix sooner or later, but that just bumped it higher on the list. Makes sense to me, never really thought about that. RX-7s (mine, my roomate's, and an '89 TII) are the only cars I've driven, that I've had problems with shifting. They all seem somewhat notchy, and have a certain timing you have to get used to for optimal shifting.

On topic, I use the Mazdatrix shifter (shortened a bit further), and I love the feel of it. Throw is very short. I'll also have to see if shifting is somewhat smooth now that my clutch is back together... as it was getting harder and harder as the release bearing got worse...
Old 01-26-02, 03:34 PM
  #29  
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I have the Mazdatrix and I think its decent but there has to be a better one out there. I has the Hurst Comp Plus in my Mustang and that thing was the best shifter I ever used. If there was a Hurst for the FD I would buy it. Even if it was 400 bucks. The Hurst was just THAT GOOD! When I saw B&M made one I was interested but already had the mazdatrix unit.
Old 01-28-02, 12:35 AM
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I have the C's and LOVE it! It is sooo smooth and crisp! Noone else has this one?
Old 02-06-02, 04:43 PM
  #31  
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I have Guru one from gurumotorsports (Australia), the guys over here rave about them!
Old 02-08-02, 12:19 AM
  #32  
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Just got my B&M installed - very tight and crisp - no rattle! You have to take the rubber/plastic bushing on the end of the old shifter and pop onto the new one - no rattle. 2nd to 3rd is amazing - feels about like a 30% shorter throw.
Old 02-09-02, 10:26 PM
  #33  
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https://www.rx7club.com/forum/showth...threadid=51405

I took a pic of the stuff that comes in the B & M kit it is at this link. The box says 25% shorter shift. 160$ shipped.
Old 02-10-02, 04:51 PM
  #34  
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i also have the mazdatrix shifter. works great! installed in about 25 mins. i had to chuckle when i read the post about the shortness of the stock shifter so he didnt want to get a short throw shifter. hehe they are the same lenghts just the throw has been reduced due to repositioning of the pivot
Old 02-21-02, 09:05 PM
  #35  
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Thumbs up Mazdatrix

I have a Mazdatrix one for my TII. My FD never had a short shifter......
No problems with the install, no rattle, and it's the best $200 I have spent on my TII. I think the FD has a decent stock shifter.....
Old 02-22-02, 02:09 PM
  #36  
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Originally posted by kwikrx7
Just got my B&M installed - very tight and crisp - no rattle! You have to take the rubber/plastic bushing on the end of the old shifter and pop onto the new one - no rattle. 2nd to 3rd is amazing - feels about like a 30% shorter throw.
I just installed the b&m this morning... unfortunately, I get the very annoying rattle at anything over mid-throttle. I'm going to try a couple small circles of dynamat on the metal base to see if that helps...

The reduce in throw is amazing though....

-Matt
'93 Touring
Old 02-22-02, 03:58 PM
  #37  
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Originally posted by matt_ledbetter


I just installed the b&m this morning... unfortunately, I get the very annoying rattle at anything over mid-throttle. I'm going to try a couple small circles of dynamat on the metal base to see if that helps...

The reduce in throw is amazing though....

-Matt
'93 Touring
I used 3 small strips of dynamat on the shifter base and it completely eliminated the rattle.

So far seems to be a good investment for $170.

-Matt
Old 02-24-02, 01:04 PM
  #38  
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Originally posted by matt_ledbetter


I used 3 small strips of dynamat on the shifter base and it completely eliminated the rattle.

So far seems to be a good investment for $170.

-Matt
you have any pictures of the dynomat, and do you mind explaining were you put it and how big the strips were.
Old 02-24-02, 01:11 PM
  #39  
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Originally posted by Node

you have any pictures of the dynomat, and do you mind explaining were you put it and how big the strips were.
Sorry, no pictures without taking my car back apart.

You can get a couple small sheets of dynamat for nothing from Crutchfield:

http://www.crutchfield.com/cgi-bin/S...890&I=15410115

The base of the B&M shifter is about an inch tall perhaps... I used a small ( 1/2" tall by 2" wide ) strip on each side. It would be easier to do it before you mount it in the car.

-Matt
Old 02-27-02, 09:54 PM
  #40  
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Just read this thread and thought I would throw out a picture of the engine brace (aka torque arm) that I have sold to about a half dozen FD owners. The response to the brace has been very positive ... zero side-to-side shifter movement and less mis-shifts, improved driveability and reduced drivetrain jerking/lurching especially at low speeds, improved throttle response, quick install, and it looks cool too. The down side is the need to tune the length of the arm to prevent chassis resonance (this brace is stiff, that's why a bushing is used to mitigate fatigue). Each end of the arm has an adjustable rod end with threaded male end, just loosen the lock nuts on each rod end and rotate the internally threaded aluminum arm, one direction lengthens the arm the other direction shortens.

I have parts for three more engine braces if I can get three confirmed orders, just PM me. Oh, the punch line, I charge $170 delivered (to mainland US).
Old 02-28-02, 12:29 AM
  #41  
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I have the Pettit short shifter and it's the best short throw I've ever had for any of my cars. It is really short though (60% shorter). It took a while to get used to at first, I almost couldn't tell if I had upshited from 4th to 5th or 3rd. It's tight though. Now I love it, anything is better then stock. My friends stock shifter feels like you're shifting through tar or bubblegum, it's horrible. whatever you get, you'll like it.
Old 05-28-02, 08:08 AM
  #42  
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You guys looking for an engine torque brace for the FD? Jason is selling these items through the RX-7 store.
Details can be found at:
https://www.rx7club.com/forum/showth...threadid=76319

And more pics on my homepage:
http://reganrotaryracing.tripod.com/powrbar.htm
If it goes down due to excessive bandwidth (sorry) keep trying or check it agan later when it comes back up...Thanks
Crispy
Old 07-15-02, 03:26 AM
  #43  
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If you want to make your own engine brace, go to a go kart shop and get a steering rod with the rose joints on each end cost about $20 and then bolt it on and away you go, cost less than $30 by the time you buy the bolts and stuff,
or do what i did and make solid engine mounts.
Old 09-16-03, 11:36 AM
  #44  
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Go with hIGGI's. It's definately the best for the money. I've tried several short throw shifters.
Old 09-16-03, 12:59 PM
  #45  
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I've driven cars with both the C's and Gotham Racing short shifter. The c's ended up biting the bullet b/c of a bad installation. The Gotham racing shifter seems to be a very well made piece. Short shifts and pretty quiet. The best part is it's only $140.00 at GothamRacing.com.

Gotham Racing Short Shifter.
Old 10-13-03, 08:02 PM
  #46  
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dude, the mazdatrix is best for your money, shorter throws and you dont have to fight to install the screws, people with the b&m know what im talking about.

spend the extra 40 for the mazdatrix so you dont have to spend 400 for two like i did.
Old 10-26-03, 07:12 PM
  #47  
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I skpped the second page all toghether but I have the mazdaracing short shifte in my FC and it rox! It shortens the throw over 60% from what their add says.


Santiago

It was 169 plus ~8 dollars for shipping.
Old 11-02-03, 09:18 AM
  #48  
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I got one from hIGGI...and i love it
Old 11-02-03, 05:24 PM
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How would I find out what type of trans is in my repu. It’s a 5 speed out of a Rx7. I just don't know what year. I would like to get a short shift for it, but have to know what year it is first
Old 11-02-03, 10:04 PM
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I have the B& M and now that i have installed it, it squeeked a bit but i used something similar to that dynomat and that when right away


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