Running 9's. I'm serious.
10-30-05, 09:56 AM
#26
Full Member
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Walnut Creek
Posts: 188
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Got a time slip? 
There is not alot of rotarys running 6's and 7's.Come on dude, be real.There might be some but over 100K + and no-one on this site is even 1/2 that level.
I did heads and cam swap on my motor and got a 10.9 from it.I got video and a slip for proof.I get 25mpg and reliable 421 at the wheels.I never wrench on my car anymore.I seen 20B's run low 10's that are barley streetable.Do you realize how much money and time you need to spend to get those times.3 times what I spent at least.
There is not alot of rotarys running 6's and 7's.Come on dude, be real.There might be some but over 100K + and no-one on this site is even 1/2 that level.I did heads and cam swap on my motor and got a 10.9 from it.I got video and a slip for proof.I get 25mpg and reliable 421 at the wheels.I never wrench on my car anymore.I seen 20B's run low 10's that are barley streetable.Do you realize how much money and time you need to spend to get those times.3 times what I spent at least.
Originally Posted by ErnieT
And why wouldn't you see a 9sec RX7 WITH A ROTARY on the street??? Take a look at one. lol...In all seriousness a LS1 has no better chance of running sub 10 sec. passes than a rotary. Plenty of rotary's running 6's and 7's. So NEXT question!
10-30-05, 10:04 AM
#27
Originally Posted by ls1240z
Got a time slip?
https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generation-specific-1993-2002-16/pics-me-%40-track-my-10-sec-pass-128190/
Can you make a 6 or 7 second rotary? Sure. Does the fact that nobody here has one make it impossible? Not really. If you haven't noticed, most FD owners aren't huge drag racers. They may go out and run their cars for the heck of it, but most of them don't bother to try and get anything lower than low 12's or high 11's. For most of the people here, that's fast enough but it doesn't mean it can't go faster.
10-30-05, 10:59 AM
#28
Insane Burning Diarrhea
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Noo Yawk City / San Diego
Posts: 1,796
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by Mahjik
Here's Ernie a few years ago on a stock motor (i.e. no internal upgrades):
https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.php?t=128190
Can you make a 6 or 7 second rotary? Sure. Does the fact that nobody here has one make it impossible? Not really. If you haven't noticed, most FD owners aren't huge drag racers. They may go out and run their cars for the heck of it, but most of them don't bother to try and get anything lower than low 12's or high 11's. For most of the people here, that's fast enough but it doesn't mean it can't go faster.
https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.php?t=128190
Can you make a 6 or 7 second rotary? Sure. Does the fact that nobody here has one make it impossible? Not really. If you haven't noticed, most FD owners aren't huge drag racers. They may go out and run their cars for the heck of it, but most of them don't bother to try and get anything lower than low 12's or high 11's. For most of the people here, that's fast enough but it doesn't mean it can't go faster.
10-30-05, 12:51 PM
#31
Living life 9 seconds at a time
iTrader: (2)
Join Date: Feb 2001
Location: Abingdon, Md
Posts: 6,541
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by SayNoToPistons
wheres the pics Ernie?
http://www.vosko.net/media/dragracing/ernie/
10-30-05, 08:01 PM
#34
moon ******
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Jacksonville, Florida
Posts: 1,308
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by ErnieT
And why wouldn't you see a 9sec RX7 WITH A ROTARY on the street??? Take a look at one. lol...In all seriousness a LS1 has no better chance of running sub 10 sec. passes than a rotary. Plenty of rotary's running 6's and 7's. So NEXT question!
Im sure you could reason that a 700 hp 13b wouldnt last as longas a 700 hp 20b - so why would a bigger piston engine not follow the same rule?
But, because he said "rotary" instead of "13b" he was making a very generalized statement. Rotaries CAN make power, but the issue he and I have with it is $$$ to get there, and HOW you get it. You cant tune as aggressively with a rotary as you can on a piston engine... AFR and spark advance wise anyway. I also see people using largeish turbos, doing porting, and keeping the boost ratios low (generally in the efficiency island to keep it cool) versus just kicking up the boost with a slightly smaller one.
Different strokes for different folks... but each engine reaches the same end with different means - and has a different powerband at the end of it because of the turbo sizing, tuning, and displacement.
Also, Ernie, got a dyno graph to go with it? I'd wager its mighty peaky! And what was the race weight of the car?
10-30-05, 08:19 PM
#35
Front Range Express
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Colorado Springs
Posts: 571
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Nihilanthic- I pretty much agree with your perspective on this... especially what you said earlier about getting life insurance (lol). My wife MADE ME get a policy, or else.
10-30-05, 08:27 PM
#36
Living life 9 seconds at a time
iTrader: (2)
Join Date: Feb 2001
Location: Abingdon, Md
Posts: 6,541
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by Nihilanthic
Also, Ernie, got a dyno graph to go with it? I'd wager its mighty peaky! And what was the race weight of the car?
Oh, and my car weighed in at a lofty 2980 with me in it.
Last edited by ErnieT; 10-30-05 at 08:29 PM.
10-30-05, 08:32 PM
#37
moon ******
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Jacksonville, Florida
Posts: 1,308
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
440 whp and 2980 race weight. BTW, wheres that dyno?
Also, GNX7 has 430 whp N/A in a LS1. Sure, it can blow up, but not at that power level, turbo or otherwise, unless he tries to race without any oil in the engine.
Also, GNX7 has 430 whp N/A in a LS1. Sure, it can blow up, but not at that power level, turbo or otherwise, unless he tries to race without any oil in the engine.
10-30-05, 08:38 PM
#38
Living life 9 seconds at a time
iTrader: (2)
Join Date: Feb 2001
Location: Abingdon, Md
Posts: 6,541
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by Nihilanthic
440 whp and 2980 race weight. BTW, wheres that dyno?
Also, GNX7 has 430 whp N/A in a LS1. Sure, it can blow up, but not at that power level, turbo or otherwise, unless he tries to race without any oil in the engine.
Also, GNX7 has 430 whp N/A in a LS1. Sure, it can blow up, but not at that power level, turbo or otherwise, unless he tries to race without any oil in the engine.
10-30-05, 08:40 PM
#39
Banned. I got OWNED!!!
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Belleville, IL
Posts: 5,506
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by Nihilanthic
440 whp and 2980 race weight. BTW, wheres that dyno?
Also, GNX7 has 430 whp N/A in a LS1. Sure, it can blow up, but not at that power level, turbo or otherwise, unless he tries to race without any oil in the engine.
Also, GNX7 has 430 whp N/A in a LS1. Sure, it can blow up, but not at that power level, turbo or otherwise, unless he tries to race without any oil in the engine.
10-30-05, 08:48 PM
#41
moon ******
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Jacksonville, Florida
Posts: 1,308
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
ErnieT - a turbo at 20 psi making 440 whp in a 13B wont spool until what, 4K?
LUPE - really? Id sure like to see them! Thats not straining the internals at all, so unless someone just took the drainplug out of his oilpan, HOW is that going to happen?
LUPE - really? Id sure like to see them! Thats not straining the internals at all, so unless someone just took the drainplug out of his oilpan, HOW is that going to happen?
10-30-05, 08:53 PM
#42
Living life 9 seconds at a time
iTrader: (2)
Join Date: Feb 2001
Location: Abingdon, Md
Posts: 6,541
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by Nihilanthic
ErnieT - a turbo at 20 psi making 440 whp in a 13B wont spool until what, 4K?
?
?
10-30-05, 08:58 PM
#43
Banned. I got OWNED!!!
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Belleville, IL
Posts: 5,506
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by Nihilanthic
ErnieT - a turbo at 20 psi making 440 whp in a 13B wont spool until what, 4K?
LUPE - really? Id sure like to see them! Thats not straining the internals at all, so unless someone just took the drainplug out of his oilpan, HOW is that going to happen?
LUPE - really? Id sure like to see them! Thats not straining the internals at all, so unless someone just took the drainplug out of his oilpan, HOW is that going to happen?
Well, LS1's have problems right out of the box. They don't need to be modded to need rebuilds.
Subject:
Higher Than Expected Oil Consumption
(Replace Rings)
Models:
1999-2001 Chevrolet Camaro, Corvette
1999-2001 Pontiac Firebird
with 5.7L Engine (VINs G, S - RPOs LS1, LS6)
Condition
Some owners may comment on higher than expected oil consumption. When checked, the oil consumption could be in the range of 400-600 miles per quart (700-1000 km/L).
Cause
The cause for this condition may be an interaction between the piston rings and the cylinder bore in vehicles that are operated at higher RPMs - typically manual transmission vehicles driven in a manner where the engine is frequently or consistently operating at greater than 3200 RPM.
Correction
A new set of piston rings is currently available through GMSPO. The new rings are part of a complete piston ring kit. Install only the number 2 compression ring and the oil expander ring from the piston ring kit. All other rings in the piston ring kit should be discarded. The original number 1 compression ring and the oil ring rails should be re-used in their original positions on the piston. All pistons should be used in the same cylinder bore.
Important: Do not dress or hone the cylinder bore. Nothing should be done to change the bore finish for this condition. Changing the bore finish may aggravate the condition.
Refer to the Unit Repair Manual for appropriate ring removal and replacement procedure.
The number 1 compression ring and the upper and lower oil expander rails are re-used because they are already broken in for the bore that they are in. The new number 2 compression ring is made with a very sharp edge that will break in quickly.
Changing only the piston rings noted, with no change in driving style, should change oil consumption to an acceptable level. Changes in driving style that reduce the amount of time spent at higher RPMs will also positively effect oil consumption.
In addition to the standard size piston ring kit listed below, a 0.25 mm oversized piston ring kit is available. The oversized piston ring kit should only be used in those rare instances where the cylinder bore size has been machined larger to accommodate the 0.25 mm oversized piston rings.
10-30-05, 09:07 PM
#44
moon ******
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Jacksonville, Florida
Posts: 1,308
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Are you trying to instigate a fight here or are you just misinformed?
I guess that thread that I was flaming in that made you come out to tell me to stop trolling in and that SB2 FC that owned GTORX7s 20b swap must have slipped your mind. P.S. - it has the same redline, and it could rev higher if he built it that way!
"Mullet" crap is the same old image bullshit that everyone is too busy obsessing about to get over. Save the subjectivity for the subjective, please. Like, say, how good one engine sounds vs another, or your preference of paint colors... not things that are, infact, objective!
But yeah. V8s can be built to rev as high as you want, and if you dont know that its nobodys fault but yours, as Google works for everyone equally as well. The thing is, we dont look at revs as a goal to achieve, so if we make the power we want, we dont keep spinning it up and pushing the powerband so high we lose lowend.
Again, thats a PREFERENCE. If we can make the same power at lower rpms we dont get some need to see the tach needle move higher.
Whats your point, exactly?
I guess that thread that I was flaming in that made you come out to tell me to stop trolling in and that SB2 FC that owned GTORX7s 20b swap must have slipped your mind. P.S. - it has the same redline, and it could rev higher if he built it that way!
"Mullet" crap is the same old image bullshit that everyone is too busy obsessing about to get over. Save the subjectivity for the subjective, please. Like, say, how good one engine sounds vs another, or your preference of paint colors... not things that are, infact, objective!
But yeah. V8s can be built to rev as high as you want, and if you dont know that its nobodys fault but yours, as Google works for everyone equally as well. The thing is, we dont look at revs as a goal to achieve, so if we make the power we want, we dont keep spinning it up and pushing the powerband so high we lose lowend.
Again, thats a PREFERENCE. If we can make the same power at lower rpms we dont get some need to see the tach needle move higher.
Whats your point, exactly?
10-30-05, 09:10 PM
#46
As for everyone saying it takes a lot of money to go fast with a 13b:
I am 18, and am like 99% done my 9 second street driven 13b powered FD. I have been building this car for a little over a year, and on a very meager budget have gotten some awesome results.
As it sits at 20lbs of boost, i am using the fuel for mid 500hp, which will net very low 10's on et streets.
I havent gotten into where my twin t3/t4 turbos really start flowing. A few more pounds of boost and I should be well on my way into the 9's.
As far as 'streetable' goes, That is up to the individual. I dont have much of an interior, nor do I care to. I beat the HELL out of my car almost every day. The only reason I built this car was to have something that was scarry fast, in a straight line and around corners. A properly TUNED rotary can be very reliable, even at higher boost levels. The problem with most people is they either lack the knowledge, skills, or money to put together a car that will be reliable. And, often people dont spend the time to tune it, or pay to have it professionally done. I would have no problem taking the car on long trips (if my ears lasted the exhaust noise)
I have contemplated a LS1 swapper in the rx7. For now, I just see no reason to do it. A 9 second street car is pretty much the ****. There is no real need for anything faster then that. You also dont *need* a 20b to make the kind of power you need to run 9's.
I know that I leave a lot in the dark with my post, no dyno sheets, or timeslips (actually went to teh track today and got turned away due to it being overcrowded)
ernie's comment about the v8 being just as hard to get to run 9's might be a little far fetched, as there is a HUGE aftermarket and tons of support for the ls1 guys. There isnt that kind of background for someone building up a 13b, so it is defentally harder IMO.
also ernie, v8's have come a long way sence 1978, most head/cam/intakemani combos can flow well into some serious rpm's, my friend with a 408 ls1 shifts at 8k.
At the end of the day if your car goes fast, I dont give a **** what is under the hood. But that's just me. . .
I am 18, and am like 99% done my 9 second street driven 13b powered FD. I have been building this car for a little over a year, and on a very meager budget have gotten some awesome results.
As it sits at 20lbs of boost, i am using the fuel for mid 500hp, which will net very low 10's on et streets.
I havent gotten into where my twin t3/t4 turbos really start flowing. A few more pounds of boost and I should be well on my way into the 9's.
As far as 'streetable' goes, That is up to the individual. I dont have much of an interior, nor do I care to. I beat the HELL out of my car almost every day. The only reason I built this car was to have something that was scarry fast, in a straight line and around corners. A properly TUNED rotary can be very reliable, even at higher boost levels. The problem with most people is they either lack the knowledge, skills, or money to put together a car that will be reliable. And, often people dont spend the time to tune it, or pay to have it professionally done. I would have no problem taking the car on long trips (if my ears lasted the exhaust noise)
I have contemplated a LS1 swapper in the rx7. For now, I just see no reason to do it. A 9 second street car is pretty much the ****. There is no real need for anything faster then that. You also dont *need* a 20b to make the kind of power you need to run 9's.
I know that I leave a lot in the dark with my post, no dyno sheets, or timeslips (actually went to teh track today and got turned away due to it being overcrowded)
ernie's comment about the v8 being just as hard to get to run 9's might be a little far fetched, as there is a HUGE aftermarket and tons of support for the ls1 guys. There isnt that kind of background for someone building up a 13b, so it is defentally harder IMO.
also ernie, v8's have come a long way sence 1978, most head/cam/intakemani combos can flow well into some serious rpm's, my friend with a 408 ls1 shifts at 8k.
At the end of the day if your car goes fast, I dont give a **** what is under the hood. But that's just me. . .
10-30-05, 09:12 PM
#47
moon ******
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Jacksonville, Florida
Posts: 1,308
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by LUPE
Well, LS1's have problems right out of the box. They don't need to be modded to need rebuilds.
Subject:
Higher Than Expected Oil Consumption
(Replace Rings)
Models:
1999-2001 Chevrolet Camaro, Corvette
1999-2001 Pontiac Firebird
with 5.7L Engine (VINs G, S - RPOs LS1, LS6)
Condition
Some owners may comment on higher than expected oil consumption. When checked, the oil consumption could be in the range of 400-600 miles per quart (700-1000 km/L).
Cause
The cause for this condition may be an interaction between the piston rings and the cylinder bore in vehicles that are operated at higher RPMs - typically manual transmission vehicles driven in a manner where the engine is frequently or consistently operating at greater than 3200 RPM.
Correction
A new set of piston rings is currently available through GMSPO. The new rings are part of a complete piston ring kit. Install only the number 2 compression ring and the oil expander ring from the piston ring kit. All other rings in the piston ring kit should be discarded. The original number 1 compression ring and the oil ring rails should be re-used in their original positions on the piston. All pistons should be used in the same cylinder bore.
Important: Do not dress or hone the cylinder bore. Nothing should be done to change the bore finish for this condition. Changing the bore finish may aggravate the condition.
Refer to the Unit Repair Manual for appropriate ring removal and replacement procedure.
The number 1 compression ring and the upper and lower oil expander rails are re-used because they are already broken in for the bore that they are in. The new number 2 compression ring is made with a very sharp edge that will break in quickly.
Changing only the piston rings noted, with no change in driving style, should change oil consumption to an acceptable level. Changes in driving style that reduce the amount of time spent at higher RPMs will also positively effect oil consumption.
In addition to the standard size piston ring kit listed below, a 0.25 mm oversized piston ring kit is available. The oversized piston ring kit should only be used in those rare instances where the cylinder bore size has been machined larger to accommodate the 0.25 mm oversized piston rings.
Subject:
Higher Than Expected Oil Consumption
(Replace Rings)
Models:
1999-2001 Chevrolet Camaro, Corvette
1999-2001 Pontiac Firebird
with 5.7L Engine (VINs G, S - RPOs LS1, LS6)
Condition
Some owners may comment on higher than expected oil consumption. When checked, the oil consumption could be in the range of 400-600 miles per quart (700-1000 km/L).
Cause
The cause for this condition may be an interaction between the piston rings and the cylinder bore in vehicles that are operated at higher RPMs - typically manual transmission vehicles driven in a manner where the engine is frequently or consistently operating at greater than 3200 RPM.
Correction
A new set of piston rings is currently available through GMSPO. The new rings are part of a complete piston ring kit. Install only the number 2 compression ring and the oil expander ring from the piston ring kit. All other rings in the piston ring kit should be discarded. The original number 1 compression ring and the oil ring rails should be re-used in their original positions on the piston. All pistons should be used in the same cylinder bore.
Important: Do not dress or hone the cylinder bore. Nothing should be done to change the bore finish for this condition. Changing the bore finish may aggravate the condition.
Refer to the Unit Repair Manual for appropriate ring removal and replacement procedure.
The number 1 compression ring and the upper and lower oil expander rails are re-used because they are already broken in for the bore that they are in. The new number 2 compression ring is made with a very sharp edge that will break in quickly.
Changing only the piston rings noted, with no change in driving style, should change oil consumption to an acceptable level. Changes in driving style that reduce the amount of time spent at higher RPMs will also positively effect oil consumption.
In addition to the standard size piston ring kit listed below, a 0.25 mm oversized piston ring kit is available. The oversized piston ring kit should only be used in those rare instances where the cylinder bore size has been machined larger to accommodate the 0.25 mm oversized piston rings.
So, a LS1 with a FAULT is just like a rotary in the variable of oil consumption. Riiight.... Now how does that play into them blowing up? If you can top off the oil of a rotary you can top off the oil of piston engine, too.
Oh, and ErnieT - I love RX-7s! Im just not obsessed about what kind of engine is in it or sling subjective insults based on the image given to them by certain social groups.
10-30-05, 09:16 PM
#48
Living life 9 seconds at a time
iTrader: (2)
Join Date: Feb 2001
Location: Abingdon, Md
Posts: 6,541
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by Nihilanthic
Are you trying to instigate a fight here or are you just misinformed?
I guess that thread that I was flaming in that made you come out to tell me to stop trolling in and that SB2 FC that owned GTORX7s 20b swap must have slipped your mind. P.S. - it has the same redline, and it could rev higher if he built it that way!
"Mullet" crap is the same old image bullshit that everyone is too busy obsessing about to get over. Save the subjectivity for the subjective, please. Like, say, how good one engine sounds vs another, or your preference of paint colors... not things that are, infact, objective!
But yeah. V8s can be built to rev as high as you want, and if you dont know that its nobodys fault but yours, as Google works for everyone equally as well. The thing is, we dont look at revs as a goal to achieve, so if we make the power we want, we dont keep spinning it up and pushing the powerband so high we lose lowend.
Again, thats a PREFERENCE. If we can make the same power at lower rpms we dont get some need to see the tach needle move higher.
Whats your point, exactly?
I guess that thread that I was flaming in that made you come out to tell me to stop trolling in and that SB2 FC that owned GTORX7s 20b swap must have slipped your mind. P.S. - it has the same redline, and it could rev higher if he built it that way!
"Mullet" crap is the same old image bullshit that everyone is too busy obsessing about to get over. Save the subjectivity for the subjective, please. Like, say, how good one engine sounds vs another, or your preference of paint colors... not things that are, infact, objective!
But yeah. V8s can be built to rev as high as you want, and if you dont know that its nobodys fault but yours, as Google works for everyone equally as well. The thing is, we dont look at revs as a goal to achieve, so if we make the power we want, we dont keep spinning it up and pushing the powerband so high we lose lowend.
Again, thats a PREFERENCE. If we can make the same power at lower rpms we dont get some need to see the tach needle move higher.
Whats your point, exactly?
10-30-05, 09:18 PM
#49
moon ******
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Jacksonville, Florida
Posts: 1,308
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
rfreeman27 - the difference that some guys will draw attention is HOW you get into the 9s. You wont spool very early and its going to have a different throttle responce and the turbos kicking in different than just giving more throttle to a N/A engine. Not everyone wants to strip a car and have on/off turbos that kick in at 4K. If you want to, thats okay!
BTW, what T3/T4 turbos, exactly? What Weight of the car? T3/T4 doesnt give me any info on the hotside or compressor size except its a T3 or a T4... you might as well just say "two garret turbos".
As far as reliability, well, you cant seriously think thats going to last 100K+ between rebuilds, can you? Im not saying its going to blow up unless you put in shitty gas or push the spark advance real far (which you know better than to do) but its going to have compression degrade over time. Its just a fact of life with using a 13b.
BTW, what T3/T4 turbos, exactly? What Weight of the car? T3/T4 doesnt give me any info on the hotside or compressor size except its a T3 or a T4... you might as well just say "two garret turbos".
As far as reliability, well, you cant seriously think thats going to last 100K+ between rebuilds, can you? Im not saying its going to blow up unless you put in shitty gas or push the spark advance real far (which you know better than to do) but its going to have compression degrade over time. Its just a fact of life with using a 13b.
10-30-05, 09:26 PM
#50
moon ******
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Jacksonville, Florida
Posts: 1,308
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by ErnieT
Actually its just the opposite. Everytime I stated facts, you try and question it. Like I said, this IS a RX7 forum so don't expect support on a piston vs rotary topic. And yes I take offense when someone questions my knowledge considering how long I've been around and how long you've been in the game and just gave up by pulling your motor in favor of a camero motor.
Saying **** like all v8s shift at 5K and its somehow related to 'mullets' in anything but the minds of people who have that stereotype doesnt exactly help the way you come accross right now. Yeah, some v8s are made to shift there. Some shift at 3 or 4K because theyre diesels! Some shift at 8.5K and some shift even higher than that.
As far as 'support on piston vs rotary' I dont care! If you want to make it into another case of a psychological construction of "us" vs "them" and you somehow belong to some "rotary team" while the "piston team" is "out to get you" and ''dis your rides" (and your engines, yo!) then be my guest. Its all the same in my mind as VTEC vs anything, or Turbo vs NA, or one religion vs another. Or, one race vs another, one religion vs another, right handed vs left handed... hey, why not setup a big arguement about one football team vs another?
As far as your 'time in the game' congratulations. You have meaningful experience about rotaries to share. But, your statement of 'giving up' and 'changing sides' to the 'piston team' (especially those awful v8s) is a SUBJECTIVE thing that you and some rotary fans have, that really doesnt mean jack **** except its a personal insult to you. If thats how you feel, then fine, say it!
Just dont expect everyone to give a damn, or agree with you! To some people its a tool to achieve peformance out of a car, and some people, just like you, have a preference of power delivery and low end, or what it sounds like, or just simply have a preference of what engine they like.