Rotary engine balancing services review and shop suggestions?
#1
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Rotary engine balancing services review and shop suggestions?
I am about to ship out my 12A internals to be balanced and would like some advice as to where to send them. I have researched this topic on this forum and found the following list of individuals that perform the balancing service Paul Yaw, Daryl Drummond, CLR, Rodger Mandenville and Downing but cant find much information about them. I have purchased parts from Racing beat and Mazda trix to build this engine so I am familiar with them but before I spend north of $500 for the balancing I would like some people with experience to weigh in on their reviews of various shops and their services. Information such as how to contact, approximate price, turn around time, knowledge and quality of work is very helpful.
Little background about my needs/build: First rotary engine build and I am trying to avoid cutting any corners. Building a 12a with a big bridgeport, already have hardened stationary gears, high pressure oil system, race bearings, carbon apex seals, aluminum flywheel. My rotor set is mismatched and I would like to spin to or past 10,000rpm depending on what my carb can support so I recognize that balancing is a requirement. I also would like to get the rotor clearancing procedure done as outlined by Racing Beat. I live in Indiana so I know I will likely have to ship parts but before I spend the money I would appreciate any opinion or other options that I am not aware of. Thanks for your time.
Little background about my needs/build: First rotary engine build and I am trying to avoid cutting any corners. Building a 12a with a big bridgeport, already have hardened stationary gears, high pressure oil system, race bearings, carbon apex seals, aluminum flywheel. My rotor set is mismatched and I would like to spin to or past 10,000rpm depending on what my carb can support so I recognize that balancing is a requirement. I also would like to get the rotor clearancing procedure done as outlined by Racing Beat. I live in Indiana so I know I will likely have to ship parts but before I spend the money I would appreciate any opinion or other options that I am not aware of. Thanks for your time.
#5
www.lms-efi.com
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I've used CLR and Mandeville. Mandeville is less expensive and turns the work around very quickly. Roger has been in the game as long as anyone. His work and pedigree speak for itself.
When shipping a rotating assembly, you can fit two rotors and the counter weights in a single USPS Priority large flat rate box. Ship it all anywhere in the US for about $20 insured. Beats the heck out of UPS for price.
When shipping a rotating assembly, you can fit two rotors and the counter weights in a single USPS Priority large flat rate box. Ship it all anywhere in the US for about $20 insured. Beats the heck out of UPS for price.
#6
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Thanks for the info. Definitely a good price for balancing, but I'm not sure what extra hassle it would be to ship to Canada?
Thanks for the tip on the USPS flat rate box, thats a good idea! Then I would just have to find a method to send the E-shaft and I'd be set.
I found CLR motorsports contact info on Facebook but I cant find any info on Roger Mandeville?
I've used CLR and Mandeville. Mandeville is less expensive and turns the work around very quickly. Roger has been in the game as long as anyone. His work and pedigree speak for itself.
When shipping a rotating assembly, you can fit two rotors and the counter weights in a single USPS Priority large flat rate box. Ship it all anywhere in the US for about $20 insured. Beats the heck out of UPS for price.
When shipping a rotating assembly, you can fit two rotors and the counter weights in a single USPS Priority large flat rate box. Ship it all anywhere in the US for about $20 insured. Beats the heck out of UPS for price.
I found CLR motorsports contact info on Facebook but I cant find any info on Roger Mandeville?
#7
www.lms-efi.com
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https://www.facebook.com/pages/Mande...66774590014772
As long as you're using a standard, unmodified e-shaft, you don't need to send it in. Just need the rotors and counter weights. Mandeville and CLR at least don't require it. If you're using an 8 e-shaft with 7 rotors, you'll need to tell them. Be prepared for Carlos to talk you out of using an 8 shaft, if you're planning on it. Not sure on Roger's take on the 8 shafts. Think Roger gets $350 for a 2-rotor, been a while and my memory isn't the greatest. Carlos is about $500 iirc.
As long as you're using a standard, unmodified e-shaft, you don't need to send it in. Just need the rotors and counter weights. Mandeville and CLR at least don't require it. If you're using an 8 e-shaft with 7 rotors, you'll need to tell them. Be prepared for Carlos to talk you out of using an 8 shaft, if you're planning on it. Not sure on Roger's take on the 8 shafts. Think Roger gets $350 for a 2-rotor, been a while and my memory isn't the greatest. Carlos is about $500 iirc.
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#9
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Yeah monkman, I would like to see how the pros package them.
I was thinking that I would cut a cube of hard styrofoam to the size of a flate rate usps box, then cut that in half and hollow out recesses for the rotors and counterweights. I already cleaned the rotors and taped rubber tubes cut lengthwise over the apex seal locations and around the edges of the rotors for extra protection.
I was thinking that I would cut a cube of hard styrofoam to the size of a flate rate usps box, then cut that in half and hollow out recesses for the rotors and counterweights. I already cleaned the rotors and taped rubber tubes cut lengthwise over the apex seal locations and around the edges of the rotors for extra protection.
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the factory rotor packaging is pretty elaborate.
they have a top and bottom piece, which is two layers with a round cut out. so the bottom piece goes in the box, the rotor goes in there, then there is a round cardboard tube, that fits in the bottom part, the top part goes on, and then you close the box.
it protects all the corners, which is the important part
it wouldn't be too hard to do something like that in a usps box either
they have a top and bottom piece, which is two layers with a round cut out. so the bottom piece goes in the box, the rotor goes in there, then there is a round cardboard tube, that fits in the bottom part, the top part goes on, and then you close the box.
it protects all the corners, which is the important part
it wouldn't be too hard to do something like that in a usps box either
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