Questions for engine builders
02-16-03, 04:40 AM
#1
Questions for engine builders
How thick should the shim be in a rear pressure regulator if trying for 90psi? Is 5mm too thick? I've got two of the adjustable style regulators and the shim in one is a lock washer. A ground corner seal is in the other. The corner seal is thicker than the lock washer by a few mms. I'm curious if anyone here has personally adjusted or has ever purchased an adustable regulator from Racing Beat and/or what shim thickness gives what psi. Is there a chart out there on the net?
I'm also curious about rotor and main (stationary gear) bearing clearancing. How deep does normal clearancing cut into the copper? Also, polishing the eccentric shaft. Is it worth it?
I have a 4 window rear stationary gear. That's right, 4 window. It's used and I'm going to check tolerances tomorrow, but it looks ok so far.
Incidentally, I just looked at http://www.mazdatrix.com/b4.htm
At the bottom of the page it shows a 3 window bearing and the three windows are long ovals. My 4 window bearing has four nearly round holes and a groove behind the bearing that is visible through the windows.
You know, that rear gear of mine may be this one: http://www.racingbeat.com/resultset....rtNumber=10015
Or this one: http://www.racingbeat.com/resultset....rtNumber=10012
Also, Mazdatrix' picture of the rear gear shows the gear teeth to be longer than on the front gear. My 4 window stat gear also has these longer teeth. My 12A front AND rear gears are both short. Is it ok to use my long geared, 4 windowed stat gear in a 12A? I'm only asking because of this page: http://www.racingbeat.com/resultset....rtNumber=10017 where it mentions they are intended for 13B engines only. However, I haven't seen anything that resembles a screw-lock bearing or nitriding... yet.
Hmm, I may have answered a couple of my own questions already, but let me know if I get these right:
Only the rear stationary gear should have a three window bearing and 'Special-Groove'. The front can remain stock.
Clearancing is ok, as long as the oil pressure is high enough to fill the gap. Will 90psi be high enough with normal clearancing?
Thanks for reading, and if you know the answers, please type away!
I'm also curious about rotor and main (stationary gear) bearing clearancing. How deep does normal clearancing cut into the copper? Also, polishing the eccentric shaft. Is it worth it?
I have a 4 window rear stationary gear. That's right, 4 window. It's used and I'm going to check tolerances tomorrow, but it looks ok so far.
Incidentally, I just looked at http://www.mazdatrix.com/b4.htm
At the bottom of the page it shows a 3 window bearing and the three windows are long ovals. My 4 window bearing has four nearly round holes and a groove behind the bearing that is visible through the windows.
You know, that rear gear of mine may be this one: http://www.racingbeat.com/resultset....rtNumber=10015
Or this one: http://www.racingbeat.com/resultset....rtNumber=10012
Also, Mazdatrix' picture of the rear gear shows the gear teeth to be longer than on the front gear. My 4 window stat gear also has these longer teeth. My 12A front AND rear gears are both short. Is it ok to use my long geared, 4 windowed stat gear in a 12A? I'm only asking because of this page: http://www.racingbeat.com/resultset....rtNumber=10017 where it mentions they are intended for 13B engines only. However, I haven't seen anything that resembles a screw-lock bearing or nitriding... yet.
Hmm, I may have answered a couple of my own questions already, but let me know if I get these right:
Only the rear stationary gear should have a three window bearing and 'Special-Groove'. The front can remain stock.
Clearancing is ok, as long as the oil pressure is high enough to fill the gap. Will 90psi be high enough with normal clearancing?
Thanks for reading, and if you know the answers, please type away!
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trickster
2nd Generation Specific (1986-1992)
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07-01-23 04:40 PM