peejay

I acquired a collection of parts that included a Cosmo bellhousing, T5 adapter, and a Ford V8 T5 transmission. It has never been assembled to an engine yet and I need to acquire a clutch disk and figure out the pilot situation.

Clutch disk will hopefully be easy, it should not be too hard to find the combination of 8 7/8" disk and 10-spline input. That may have even been a stock Ford application.

Pilot bearing, however. How do the kits do it? Do you have to cut down the Ford input shaft, or do you install a Chevy input shaft (I don't think a 23-tooth WC Chevy shaft ever existed), or do you take the nice overengineered roller bearing out of the end of the eccentric shaft and ram in some uncouth bushing?

If it's the bushing, then I'll opt for Option A.

heynoman

iTrader: (5)

Contact Kennedy engineering I have the same setup sitting in the basement and am also missing the pilot I just figure I was gonna have to use a bronze pilot bushing which I've heard are great and work better then pilot bearings since they are less likely to bind and fail I will eventually have to order a bushing from them since I can't find size i need anywhere luckily I don't plan on using that set up anytime soon the size is .6733 Id x .7874 od x .6299 if you find one else where let me know

peejay

I had my input shaft machined down to Mazda size, and I re-hardened it myself.

I don't want to do the trans swap yet because I am still weighing clutch options, and to get the shifter to come out of the tunner in the right spot I will have to move the engine and trans back 6 inches or so, so I will want to do the exhaust at the same time...

Besides, I still have to send the gears out to Liberty to be face plated.

Right now I have been concentrating on putting my new rearend together. Just got the confirmation e-mail from Dutchman that my axles are on the way. They made them to my length specs and with GSL-SE bolt pattern. I will not be using GSL-SE brakes with it though.

heynoman

iTrader: (5)

Have you consider just extended your shifter rod and moving the whole shifter back? It will let you keep you engine in its original location and let you keep your original exhaust.

peejay

The T5 shifter is in the same spot as an SA shifter. I have a series 3. It would come out in the middle of the dash and I would have to hack it up. I don't want to do that.

Plus, I want to get more weight off the nose, moving the drivetrain back will help. And having a shorter driveshaft will mean less plunge travel for the same suspension travel, which is good, and the natural frequency will be higher, which is also good.

The only downside is that I need to modify the exhaust... which I need to do anyway. And I need to make new engine and trans mounts... which I need to do anyway. And I need to make a different driveshaft... which I need to do anyway