Ok Lets Cut The Bull Shyt
06-12-04, 06:40 PM
#26
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Originally posted by travisorus rex
It was a joke. "U pritty ummmm got fogger U"
BTW, 9.20 is not a mid 8 second street car. It doesn't matter what the 60 foot is, it is still a 9.20 second car.
It was a joke. "U pritty ummmm got fogger U"
BTW, 9.20 is not a mid 8 second street car. It doesn't matter what the 60 foot is, it is still a 9.20 second car.
well n e ways ima be using a t51R turbo with this with maybe a 125 shot for those who was asking. Im asking for advice out of expirience not of what u heard. what i wana know is what seals were abel using
06-13-04, 04:29 PM
#28
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Originally posted by t-von
IMHO since your going to be running so much boost and rebuilding from time to time, I would go with the aviation seals. From what I understand when they blow they warp and don't destroy the housings and turbos like some of the others. This could make future rebuilds alot less expensive.
IMHO since your going to be running so much boost and rebuilding from time to time, I would go with the aviation seals. From what I understand when they blow they warp and don't destroy the housings and turbos like some of the others. This could make future rebuilds alot less expensive.
06-14-04, 07:10 PM
#29
Hey, where did my $$$ go?
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Most of the racers I've talked to run the stock seals.
You didnt answer any of my quesitons on the 1st page...probably cause you didnt know the answers cause your full of bull. Basically what I was doing with those questions was trying to "cut the bull shyt"
STEPHEN
You didnt answer any of my quesitons on the 1st page...probably cause you didnt know the answers cause your full of bull. Basically what I was doing with those questions was trying to "cut the bull shyt"
STEPHEN
06-14-04, 08:02 PM
#30
Originally posted by Silver7
I have heard of people boosting at or near 30 psi with just about every seal out there including stock 2mm. Seals don't break because they can't handle the boost, they break because they can't handle the detonation, usually associated with boost.
I have heard of people boosting at or near 30 psi with just about every seal out there including stock 2mm. Seals don't break because they can't handle the boost, they break because they can't handle the detonation, usually associated with boost.
just an observation here, and i'm not directing this at anyone in particular, but i've noticed, both here and on the other boards that i subscribe to that deal with boost issues (Toyota MR2 and Audi S4) everyone looks for a quick fix that's supposed to be some "magic formula" that can replace lots of time spent configuring fuel, ignition and combustion temperature issues as the relate to boost. the $ 6000 built motor is going to grenade just as fast and as the $1000 stock motor will when you try to sidestep good tuning with cash and magic.
don't get me wrong, upgraded parts help - so don't think that i'm saying they don't. i'm just saying that they will be reduced to trash at sub-stratospheric boost levels just as easily as stock parts if the tuning support is not there.
06-14-04, 08:31 PM
#31
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fool i already answered the question, Im running HKS T51R, no egt ,Wideband o2 from FJO, A/Fs are gunna depend if i run water injection or not, If i use NOS ima use a 125 shot dual fogger, fuel syste, will be running 2 intank walbro 255 pumps, to feed 1600 secondary with 1000 maybe primary and work from there.
Originally posted by SPOautos
Most of the racers I've talked to run the stock seals.
You didnt answer any of my quesitons on the 1st page...probably cause you didnt know the answers cause your full of bull. Basically what I was doing with those questions was trying to "cut the bull shyt"
STEPHEN
Most of the racers I've talked to run the stock seals.
You didnt answer any of my quesitons on the 1st page...probably cause you didnt know the answers cause your full of bull. Basically what I was doing with those questions was trying to "cut the bull shyt"
STEPHEN
06-15-04, 02:56 AM
#32
Originally posted by Silver7
Where did you hear this? I know there were a few sets that bowed but that was because of some manufacturing problems. These problems are supposedly worked out.
Where did you hear this? I know there were a few sets that bowed but that was because of some manufacturing problems. These problems are supposedly worked out.
I read that info somewhere (can't remember where). From what I understand, these seals are designed not to break under detination and warp instead preventing damage(don't quote me on that). I'm aware of the previous ones that warped. They did so "prematurely" because of the manufacturing defects. So in the end if the seals do what they are designed to do and only warp under extreme stress, I would rather have these in my engine because they would "hopefully" cause far less damage if they fail.
06-15-04, 03:33 AM
#33
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Heyy !!
Idont know much about rotaries but many tunners in P.R. use the mazda stock seals. My neighbor has a t-72 powerd rx-7 and has run 10:7 at 130mph with the stock mazda seals and no problem with them. Even full race motors uses them. In Puerto Rico theres a 3/4 chassis strarlet called Doña Ileana (Miss. Ileana) and that car has run 7:64 a 180 mph multiple ocassions and the use the stock mazda seals!!!.
Idont know much about rotaries but many tunners in P.R. use the mazda stock seals. My neighbor has a t-72 powerd rx-7 and has run 10:7 at 130mph with the stock mazda seals and no problem with them. Even full race motors uses them. In Puerto Rico theres a 3/4 chassis strarlet called Doña Ileana (Miss. Ileana) and that car has run 7:64 a 180 mph multiple ocassions and the use the stock mazda seals!!!.
06-15-04, 11:09 AM
#34
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FWIW, I have run stock 2mm @ ~28psi for over 5,000 miles with no problems. As has been said before, it's in the tuning. That said, Certain seals perform better within certain operating parameters, tell us exactly what you plan to do and we can direct you, but with the exception of the ultra high powered drag cars, I think you'll find most 4-600hp motors are running stock seals.
BTW Rynberg, it ALWAYS has to do w/tuning...
BTW Rynberg, it ALWAYS has to do w/tuning...
06-15-04, 05:03 PM
#35
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see thats what im saying some good info now, what kinda time slips and horespower you seen at 28 psi, one thing tho im looking to get over 600hp, you people can start knocking me now
06-21-04, 11:18 PM
#39
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Originally posted by T88Rx7
fool i already answered the question, Im running HKS T51R, no egt ,Wideband o2 from FJO, A/Fs are gunna depend if i run water injection or not, If i use NOS ima use a 125 shot dual fogger, fuel syste, will be running 2 intank walbro 255 pumps, to feed 1600 secondary with 1000 maybe primary and work from there.
fool i already answered the question, Im running HKS T51R, no egt ,Wideband o2 from FJO, A/Fs are gunna depend if i run water injection or not, If i use NOS ima use a 125 shot dual fogger, fuel syste, will be running 2 intank walbro 255 pumps, to feed 1600 secondary with 1000 maybe primary and work from there.
Actually fool....you didnt answer ANY of those questions
And as a matter of fact you still havent answered some of the quetsions. Here is the list if you need it again...
"What turbo will this be on? What type egt's are you planning on running? What type of fuel are we talking about? Do you have a a/f ratio in mind? How much of a shot will you be running with it if any? "
What egt's are you going to run
What type of fuel are we talking about?
You really havent said what a/f ratio you were planning just that it might change with WI....well what is the a/f with and without?
The only thing you could tell me about is the NOS kit you were going to get haha
In addition I'm curious what computer you planning on running?
STEPHEN
Last edited by SPOautos; 06-21-04 at 11:23 PM.
06-22-04, 12:33 AM
#41
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what does it make a difference what egt im going to use all you need to know is that the car is gunna be tuned for what i have where doess egt and what a/f im going to be using, im talking about apex seals, dont worry about tunning. im going to be using c 116, let me ask you guys something what are you running?
06-22-04, 01:31 AM
#42
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Not arguing the absurdity of what people run etc.. For the little I know.. if cost is no object.. and you want the best. and you are going to run Le Mans etc.. or you have sponsorship.. it is really very simple.
Iannetti ceramics.
Seal better at Low RPM
Seal better at High RPM
Resistant to Detonation because of strength
(Cough) NAWZ versions for those so inclined to run Nitrous
Basically ask the people who are winning with rotaries in the professional series OTHER than bone stockers. And I dont mean entry level racing either. Even mid level may not be able to afford them. Go to the top rung. Unless they fab thier own, they use Iannetti or the most part. I am sure some choose not to.. but I imagine it is a cost issue, as they may not need them.
In EP.. max a 6-port realistically will see is about 10K.. stockers will hold up fine to a properly tuned motor at 10K. YOu wanna go GT2 or 3.. better move to them because of the higher RPM being seen. The chatter at high RPM of the seals coming off the housing in the mid point will cause problems for steelies. They weigh more so inertia carries them into the groove.. only to slam back against the housing after. (Look at a old rotor housing you know that has been over-revved you will see the chatter marks left because of steelies and old springs)
(GOing back to work now LOL)
Iannetti ceramics.
Seal better at Low RPM
Seal better at High RPM
Resistant to Detonation because of strength
(Cough) NAWZ versions for those so inclined to run Nitrous
Basically ask the people who are winning with rotaries in the professional series OTHER than bone stockers. And I dont mean entry level racing either. Even mid level may not be able to afford them. Go to the top rung. Unless they fab thier own, they use Iannetti or the most part. I am sure some choose not to.. but I imagine it is a cost issue, as they may not need them.
In EP.. max a 6-port realistically will see is about 10K.. stockers will hold up fine to a properly tuned motor at 10K. YOu wanna go GT2 or 3.. better move to them because of the higher RPM being seen. The chatter at high RPM of the seals coming off the housing in the mid point will cause problems for steelies. They weigh more so inertia carries them into the groove.. only to slam back against the housing after. (Look at a old rotor housing you know that has been over-revved you will see the chatter marks left because of steelies and old springs)
(GOing back to work now LOL)
06-22-04, 01:56 AM
#43
Banned. I got OWNED!!!
I have used stock 2mm seals with good results BUT !
They are not the nicest on the housing and they do have limitations in strength after some use.
I am running NRS ceramics now in a one piece 3mm design in their premium grey material, I used to run Ianetti 3mm one piece seals in a customers motor and all I can say is the outlay you will have on these seals more than pays for its self in long term durability (you can keep on reusing the seals !)
Biggest thing is you can reuse other major parts like rotors and housings which have a margin of wear that would otherwise happen and turn them into junk.
Ceramics allow you higher performance (revs and boost, operating temperature) + they increase component life almost exponentialy over stock or aftermarket ferrous seals. Only a person who builds their own engines can realy tell you the merits of running high tech seals, if your in it for the long haul then do yourself a favour and buy Quality Durable Apex Seals.
They are not the nicest on the housing and they do have limitations in strength after some use.
I am running NRS ceramics now in a one piece 3mm design in their premium grey material, I used to run Ianetti 3mm one piece seals in a customers motor and all I can say is the outlay you will have on these seals more than pays for its self in long term durability (you can keep on reusing the seals !)
Biggest thing is you can reuse other major parts like rotors and housings which have a margin of wear that would otherwise happen and turn them into junk.
Ceramics allow you higher performance (revs and boost, operating temperature) + they increase component life almost exponentialy over stock or aftermarket ferrous seals. Only a person who builds their own engines can realy tell you the merits of running high tech seals, if your in it for the long haul then do yourself a favour and buy Quality Durable Apex Seals.
06-23-04, 05:20 PM
#45
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Originally posted by T88Rx7
what does it make a difference what egt im going to use all you need to know is that the car is gunna be tuned for what i have where doess egt and what a/f im going to be using, im talking about apex seals, dont worry about tunning. im going to be using c 116, let me ask you guys something what are you running?
what does it make a difference what egt im going to use all you need to know is that the car is gunna be tuned for what i have where doess egt and what a/f im going to be using, im talking about apex seals, dont worry about tunning. im going to be using c 116, let me ask you guys something what are you running?
The reason it matter is cause differnt materials have different characteristics including heat ranges, ect.
It seems like to me you need to be doing a LOT of reading before you get into this high boost and nitrous combo.
STEPHEN
06-23-04, 05:24 PM
#46
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well if you people can understand the question, its saying what is the best seal under the worst condition meaning that can stand worse detonation, boost etc, tuning is not an issue when it comes to what kind of seals to get
06-24-04, 04:37 PM
#47
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Originally posted by T88Rx7
well if you people can understand the question, its saying what is the best seal under the worst condition meaning that can stand worse detonation, boost etc, tuning is not an issue when it comes to what kind of seals to get
well if you people can understand the question, its saying what is the best seal under the worst condition meaning that can stand worse detonation, boost etc, tuning is not an issue when it comes to what kind of seals to get
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