Rx7_Nut13B

iTrader: (1)

These companies has templates

Mazdatrix
Racing Beat
Pineapple < I think they are working on these
Yaw Power

This port is a Racing Beat Race Port

The nice thing about templates, They will work on anything 12a 13b 20b 26b What ever, they all have the same shape. The ports are just a little off.

mono4lamar

iTrader: (32)

^ do you know of any feed back of each companies ports? you must like the racing beats

felix_is_alive

awesome write-up , this will help a lot of people , whats up with the fingernails though ?

mono4lamar

iTrader: (32)

^ lol i was waiting for someone to say it... those are man hands!

Rx7_Nut13B

iTrader: (1)

I hate long nails.... And i allways have grease under them ALLWAYS. If i am not sleeping or working, i am in the garage doing something with the 7's

Hyper4mance2k

iTrader: (40)

Great thread, and might I add you've got some greezy hair. I'd suggest some head and shoulders...

Rx7_Nut13B

iTrader: (1)

Everyones a Critic

mono4lamar

iTrader: (32)

Alright lets not turn this into that... lets keep it on topic the guys doing a great job of showing some porting.

TonyD89

iTrader: (10)

I have a sorta-on-topic question. How much material does that template leave between the bridge and the water seal groove? It appears about 1mm (.040). Just curious because I will be doing a bridge here soon. No template. Just plexiglass tracings to keep things right. Thanks.

diabolical1

iTrader: (3)

wow. until recently, i've been a little apprehensive about trying a bridge myself, but you make it look so simple. i had already come to terms with doing one, but i don't think it's going to be as intimidating as i thought now.

thanks.

badandyrx7

awsome job !
your a real giver!

Rx7_Nut13B

iTrader: (1)

I like to leave about the same as the smallest point in the entire housing, even if the porting template wants me to go farther, it isnt worth the extra air if you will have a water seal problem in the furture.

I will try and do somemore today

Bruceman

iTrader: (5)

Thanks this is valuable info.
I'm BPing a 12A and am too tight to buy templates so I'm using a degree wheel and marking the irons. Your pictures give me confidence.

Rx7_Nut13B

iTrader: (1)

I made my own bridge for my custom 6-Port Bridgeporting

Use the rotor housing for the curve of the bridge then just add to it towards the water seal and then find the Corner seal path.

http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b1...h_IMG_0558.jpg
http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b1...h_IMG_0580.jpg

bigdv519

iTrader: (3)

Great job Chuck.

Rx7_Nut13B

iTrader: (1)

That is the only work i do

Rx7_Nut13B

iTrader: (1)

Ok here is the rest.

These are the tools that you will need to do this type of porting


If you cant find the exact bits just get something close

Setup you die grinder




Start with the bridge because if you mess that up you didnt waste all of your time porting the secondary

Start your cutting like this


DO NOT CUT IT LIKE THIS, you will not get a stright line



Here is about half done with the bridge





Just need to be cleaned up with sand paper, but you are done with the port.
Just remember dont worry about where the scribed mark is on the inside of the port (Closest to the water seal) you will need to use your own judgement on how thick you want to leave the metal. I like to have more than others



Now lets start on the main port
Change your bit to something that has more bite, also here is the angle that you will want to port this at


DO NOT PORT LIKE THIS, you will run the risk of going into the water housing


Here is done with the ruff cutting



Just port the scribed line at the bottom like you did at the top

Rx7_Nut13B

iTrader: (1)

Next we need to work on smoothing everything out
Spray some oil on the iron to help with the sanding



Now to help even more with the hard to reach parts make something like this




Start sanding your main port




After you are done with that, change your tool to something like this



Start your sanding of the bridge, PLEASE Take your time and make it as smooth as you can, the better it is the more miles you will get out of your motor.




Ok here is the finished product, i have just went over everything with 1000 grid sandpaper to really get it smooth, looks like there is some cloth stuck on the edges from where i wiped it off with.



Allways take both irons and make sure they are pretty close, if they need to be changed now is the easy place to do it.

Rx7_Nut13B

iTrader: (1)

Ok now we need to notch the Rotor housing so we can use this new bridgeport

Here is the port without the notching




Here is where the notching needs to go


Take your porting template and lay it onto the rotor housing



Here is the amount that needs to be removed



Ok after you have marked your port, add 1/4 of a inch on each side of the port. Also you will need to port appox 5/32 into the rotor housing

This grinder bit is the best i think


Start slow and just take your time untill you finish







Here is what it looks like with the rotor housing in place






That is it,

I changed my mind about showing how to port the center housing. If you got this far you can get the center done. Just use the bridge porting template without the bridge.

Rx7_Nut13B

iTrader: (1)

This was a late night for me, I just wanted to get this thread done, so it could start helping people not feel so scared about doing porting. As long as you just take your time and double check everything, there is nothing to worry about.

IF YOU WOULD LIKE THIS TO BECOME A STICKY PLEASE ASK FOR IT IN THIS THREAD

I was just wondering what my turbo will look like in my engine bay, O yea Sexy Sexy Sexy




THANKS FOR EVERYONES TIME!!

blacknmild874

excellent stuff man. maybe one day when ill grow the ***** to try this out.

STICKY!

telum01

agreed! sticky! great thread, thanks for all the info!!

badandyrx7

Sticky!

philiptompkins

iTrader: (4)

Sticky!

rotariesrule

nice job. sticky.