Hi,
Whats the highest PSI a stock 13B can handle ??

And if it is not very high,
What mods are required to handle 30 psi ??

Thanks

 

Probably a BOV???

I'm no expert though

*edit* probabaly a really loud on too. 30psi leaving that thing, almost gives me wood.

 

why the hell do you want 30 psi?

 

i bet if you got 3 stickers you could do it

no but seriously, why do you want to know? why 30psi?

if your wondering how much hp you can make with 30psi your not going to figure out once we tell you, there are many other factors

back on topic, i think ive read RICE RACING stating that a stock motor (donno what series) can take 29, but im not 100%

-Jacob

 

mine has seen 15psi for a while on the stock turbo, then it had a pd fire.

 

A guy approached me at the mall and asked me because i'm working for a performance shop.

 

Well as far as just the engine itself goes, stock internals can handle quite a bit, approx. 22-28 psi as long as tuned properly.

How reliable that is would be another story, not to mention all the external engine modifications necessary.

It's definitely over 20 psi though, as tested by many well known shops, such as Peter Farrel Supercars.

 

what type of modifications are done specifically for sustaining higher boost?

 

i donno what is needed for higher boost. But i know people dowl engines to withstand more hp, also make sure everything is clearnced right. i donno

 

Alright, Thanks for the help

 

I was wondering the same thing, my turbo will support like 30 lbs. but I didn't think the motor would.

The most I have boosted is 12 lbs and I would like to increase that to about 14 lbs so I can reap some of the benefits of having a big *** turbo.

 

I've run 28 psi for some time, no internal "fortification" such as doweling. ALL proper mods done. The list is long to say the least. This is on an S5 motor. Carl Byck

 

The highest level I've heard of is Ralph Friends 3rd gen running a T-72. Last I talked to him he was boosting right around 32psi. CJ

 

Off the top of my head,
- upgraded apex seals
- race clearanced rotors
- cyrogenically frozen parts (stationary gears, apex seals, eccentric shaft)
- shot peened parts (like apex seals)

ARP studs are a good idea too, although not usually necessary.

And regarding post just before mine... 32 psi on a completely stock engine? Really? if so, WOW!

 

Demetrios was tuning my car and we were running 28psi on my bone stock reman. We ran a CBR 929 on a 3rd gear roll and I was steady pulling him. It was the craziest thing I've ever done. Only reason we were running so much boost was the vacume line to the wastegate melted shut so the wastegate never opened. But it pulled like a freight train.

 

FYI,
None of the above is needed to run high boost. Demetrios ran 36psi on stock apex seals all year. No "race clearanced rotors", no frozend parts, no shot peened parts.........All nothing more than mis-information.

 

Do us all a big favor and find out, you know , do some tests for use at the track, come back and tell use(take one for the team!)
Speaking of the bs internal mods, can someone explain to me what " locked rotors" are? Someone mention this in a thread awhile back. frozen parts, shot peened parts, arp studs, Ive never heard of these things.

 

My motor uses stock internals, albeit from both an S5, and an S6. most of that other stuff is more for higher RPMs, than high boost.

 

Sorry, I noticed you said a stock 13B....This was a ported motor, along with a bunch of other stuff. CJ

 

So what are those internal modifications for then?(obviously high power, which is usually hand-in-hand with high boost, or no?)

Well, besides the race clearanced rotors, which usually is only done in engine running higher than usual RPM levels.

 

Cearanced rotors yeild more power (due to less friction "only seals touch LOL") and also increase life of the engine.

True stock engines can go but they loose out on power and reliability compared to one with basic high performance mods

WTF are ARP studs, r u talking about a rotary ?