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most power for the buck

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Old 12-28-14, 01:06 AM
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most power for the buck

So I've been trying to figure out a gameplan for the build I'm going to do before I buy any parts or vehicle. I am wondering what will give me the most power for my money? I have 2.5k right now and growing,after this summer I hope to be at about 5k more. With money only being on the power of the car (no aesthetics or superficial items with exception of safety pieces) what kind of power can I get and how? Right now I'm not sure whether to go turbo bridge or a pp. On the peripheral I'm not sure if there's a way I can boost it,but if I could get 10 pounds on a pp I would be very happy. I also have an opportunity to buy an s4 13b with 1k miles all oem for 200,so that's likely the motor I will use if I can get it. So what kind of numbers can I be getting on these ports and how much boost can I run on a pp or bridge without having to go crazy expensive?

Thanks in advance
Old 01-02-15, 10:20 PM
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2.5k sounds about enough to buy a high mileage but still cleanish na fc. Another 2.5k would quickly ensue just fixing the previous owners' neglect and making it not roll like a boat when turning. I have a hunch you should start there.
Old 01-04-15, 01:20 PM
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Well I'm trying to stay away from a fc as I prefer the weight savings of an fb. But I have found a couple decent fb's for 2k in my area. I had another idea that might suit me better, a high boost Swiss port? Keeps the power down in an affordable range (I think? need help on that one) and get the fun of the turbo lag and the lumpy idle.

Is that a rational idea? or am I going about it the wrong way?
Old 01-04-15, 02:11 PM
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Swiss port? If you want to do it super cheap, PP would most definitely not be the answer. Why don't you do a 6-port turbo and just run low boost? You'd have great spool, and wouldn't break driveline parts. The NA FCs are relatively weak compared to the T2s so unless you want to swap out everything/ start with a T2 then this option probably makes the most sense. This way you can also have the funds to rebuild the motor properly. Porting on the NA doesn't make sense though because of the choked intake manifold. How much power were you looking for again?
Old 01-04-15, 03:06 PM
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Corrected for you.

Originally Posted by Hatchet Jack
2k sounds about enough to buy a high mileage but still cleanish fb. Another 2.5k would quickly ensue just fixing the previous owners' neglect and making it not roll like a boat when turning. I have a hunch you should start there.
Swiss port? Let me guess; you want dat rotary brap and turbo sounds, but you want it cheap. I just saw your other thread concerning your goals. The advice those guys gave you was spot on. Hp = $$$. Just get a running stock turbo S4 engine to tinker with.
Old 01-04-15, 03:17 PM
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Also, no one has ever commented on my bridged idle, save for a handful at drift meets, and the less-than-impressed police officer who gave me a warning. No one cares about how it sounds if you're just tuning for noise. Seriously. Porting is done for power, not for idling.

No swiss cheese port in my opinion. Haha
Old 01-04-15, 10:29 PM
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Originally Posted by Hatchet Jack
Corrected for you.



Swiss port? Let me guess; you want dat rotary brap and turbo sounds, but you want it cheap. I just saw your other thread concerning your goals. The advice those guys gave you was spot on. Hp = $$$. Just get a running stock turbo S4 engine to tinker with.
Yes,that's the point of the swiss port,I like the lumpy idle,and the turbo sspooling/not coming online till higher rpms. And I honestly don't care what other people are thinking of it,I'm building the car for me. If I was building it for other people I would get something pretty.

As for power,as much as I can afford,and due to the fact I'm not going to be racing often, I want a fun car,and due to the fact I'm mainly restricted to street driving,anything over 450ish is going to be unusable for me as I'm not going to endanger other people in the road to use all that power.

Thanks for the help
Old 01-05-15, 01:46 AM
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Well then get a used T2 long block, open it up, drill some holes. Close it up. Then sell it when it drives like garbage. You can show off to your 240 friends your new idle, have stock-like performance and have money left over to buy some crown vics from the scrappers and a pair of used coils. Now that I've saved you $7,000, you owe me $500 for the financial advice.
Old 01-05-15, 06:10 AM
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450 hp? That's too much for anyone. A Swiss port wouldn't cost any less than a full bridge. 450 hp requires standalone stuff anyways. Internet-Google knowledge does little; you need hands on experience before you ignore these guys' advice.

Good luck.
Old 01-07-15, 07:50 PM
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How would a 2jz be? I can afford it if I get a cheaper base car,and I can leave it stock for about a year or so till I have more experience and more need for that kinda power. Are the conversions expensive?
Old 01-07-15, 08:07 PM
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Research, research, research.

Swaps can get very expensive, most that are abandoned are due to under budgeting. Physically getting the engine and transmission into the car is the easy part. It is everything else that is time consuming.

Build a reliable base and then go from there.
Old 01-08-15, 09:41 PM
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Originally Posted by 86svo9l
Research, research, research.

Swaps can get very expensive, most that are abandoned are due to under budgeting. Physically getting the engine and transmission into the car is the easy part. It is everything else that is time consuming.

Build a reliable base and then go from there.
Can you tell me about how much to budget for a 2jz swap after car and engine+tranny?
Old 01-08-15, 11:53 PM
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More than 10k
Old 01-09-15, 11:16 AM
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Originally Posted by 7speed
More than 10k
10k worth of odds and ends caused by a different motor?!?
Old 01-11-15, 11:21 AM
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Stuff really adds up. My recommendation is to make sure to start with a complete drivetrain pullout. If you try to piece stuff together you could end up spending a lot more and wasting a bunch of time finding parts. Or you save a little money, but still waste a bunch of time finding parts. Not sure what JZ pullouts go for, but I barely broke even by trying to piece my LS swap together, but lost almost a year gathering parts to "save money" when all along I should have just bit the bullet.

It is hard to see the cost of everything until you dive in. Make a complete realistic budget and stick to it. Odds are you will still go over. Do not forget the supporting mods to make the car handle the power, that will need to be figured in as well.

In the end it is worth it. Nothing like great driveability, a lot more power, more than double the fuel economy, and rock solid reliability to drive anywhere at any time.
Old 01-12-15, 07:11 AM
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Well sadly that's more than I can afford,and I think I'm gonna back out of the rx7 scene completely unless I find a steal on craigslist that I can pp. I'm now looking for Toyota/lexus vehicles with 2jz in them stock,or a 5.0 mustang. Thanks for the help guys,I just don't think I can make it happen on my budget.
Old 01-12-15, 02:02 PM
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No worries dude. Glad you realized this before half-finishing a car and letting it die like so many others have. The Mustang route I'd imagine to be the cheapest and suit your needs the best.
Old 01-12-15, 08:54 PM
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Originally Posted by 7speed
No worries dude. Glad you realized this before half-finishing a car and letting it die like so many others have. The Mustang route I'd imagine to be the cheapest and suit your needs the best.
Yeah,it's surprising how cheap stroker kits are for a Ford 5.0
wish I could have known that sooner.
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