It is very easy to get the pulleys wrong on an FC when mixing and matching (even like series) it is possible to be out 20 degrees! I have two S4 that are nowhere close to each other when I align them with a keyway (facing the same way). Get a racing beat aluminum pulley...

Also when checking locked timing give it a slight rev and check for drift. if it is excessive and your computer is worth a damn you can adjust for spark hardware latency.. its possible your timing is right but drifting with RPM.

For whatever reason my IGN1A coils call for ~130 usec

 

I made sure to check for timing drift. I saw none at all. I also used the same pulley from my last build which was just fine with the normal ignition timing in Haltech. I'll be going over the whole thing the next time I have it apart.

Edit: I revved the engine probably to about 4000 RPM when I checked for drift. I suppose I could take it higher next time just to have all bases covered.

 

Reviving an old thread....have you had any warpage issues since the increased methanol flow and dyno timing calibration?

Hope all is well.

 

Hi, all is well so far, thanks! Since the dyno session I've had a few instances where I lost a little compression after autocross days, but nothing drastic. And then compression was fully restored after doing some pulls with plenty of time in between.

I'm going to check my coolant temp-based fuel tables and see if I have enough fuel when the coolant temps get higher than normal.

All in all, she's running great with no real issues.

 

Haymate, thank you for the quick response. I seem to be experiencing a similar issue as you. My EGTs are not quite as high but I have been "bananaing" rear rotor apex seals. Bananaed them once (E and J seals) and tore the motor down. Did a full rebuild (RA Classics) a few months back and just yesterday I lost some compression doing my very first heavy back to back to back pulls, 14 PSI on a borg s369, twin 40mm gates. Comp was down to 75 average in the rear. Front is fine over 100.

I'm hoping that I can just drive it and let the apex seals "flatten back out" if you can call it that

I have also added a +7% compensation for my rear rotor injectors to hopefully keep it under control in the future

Any input would be appreciated

 

I said it before and I will say it again.

You guys are not bending apex seals cause you have an issue with the car.
The apex seals are just crap.

Put OEM in it and you won't have an issue again.

 

OEM seals wont bend just shatter and destroy your motor . Use PTS seals and have no problems . I have been using them for 20 years and not had 1 fail yet in all my race and road engines