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Hurley Seals Crap ?

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Old 10-21-02, 11:15 PM
  #26  
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You know, a better source for turbocharged motors may be Spencer Racing. They moved to a three rotor turbocharged unit in the historic class. Can't remember if their two-rotor was n/a or turbocharged. Very friendly guys who could probably offer a bit of advice that's more relavent to our operating parameters.
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Old 10-22-02, 10:04 AM
  #27  
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Originally posted by maxcooper
Has the team tried the non-water coolant and found it to not work, or is that a speculative opinion? We know that water has the best ability to carry heat under ideal conditions, but that isn't necessarily the driving factor under real conditions, where block-to-coolant transfer may be hampered by localized boiling. I haven't tried the other coolant yet, but I have a bunch of it and I plan to make the switch at some point to see how it works. It would be interesting to hear if they tried it and it didn't work or if their recommendation to avoid it was not based on experience. I am not flaming or trying to start anything (that's not my style anyway) -- I am genuinely curious.
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According to the builder, he actually tested some of the products a couple of years back with negative result. The heat disapating ability of the liquid was not as good as other coolants and definitely less effective than water. It seems to me, I read somewhere on the forum that coolant temps were actually substantially higher when using this stuff. If that is the case, and if the O rings are more likely to be adversely affected by temps over 88C, it seems reasonable to avoid the stuff. In fact the only thing I can think of that favors the use of that coolant is that there is no pressure on the system. Therefore, if my theory doesn't suck completely, when your O ring deteriorates, there is no pressure forcing it into the low pressure or non-pressurized sections of the combustion chambers and hence no coolant loss or telltale smoke.


BTW Max----I don't think anybody could ever accuse you of flaming or trying to start anything.


All others:

Perhaps I am being misunderstood here. I post here because I see it as an opportunity to share the information I get with the group. I am especially not advocating the universal use of ceramics (God knows I can't afford them) and as far as the 3mm/2mm battle, I have retired from that fray and made my personal decision as seen below.

Other than the times that someone is trying to sell us something, we get little enough chance to hear what pros have to say. Hopefully when we get the chance we incorporate it into our database of information, analyze it, and use it as we see best. I will continue to share whatever information I get because this is the best source of diverse opinions available.

Old 10-22-02, 03:34 PM
  #28  
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Evans NPG

Ok

I just found a thread that mentions the higher operating temps. It is the 3rd Generation Specific (1993-Current) forum > and Evans NPG 0 pressure.

In the most pertinent part (to this discussion) of the post, Michael Filippello wrote:

"One thing is that your temp guage will read slightly higher. I seem to have higher temps with the npg+ than i did with water. the thing is that now I don't worry until I get to around 240. part of the reason for the higher temps is that the coolant is doing a better job at removing the heat from the engine instead of breaking down and cascading. temps rise consistently and there isn't that chain reaction effect that you get with water based coolant. When water based coolant overheats it vaporizes and looses all ability too collect heat. this causes the hot spot to grow and the coolant to get hotter along with the hotspot. thus the chain reaction and quick rise in temp. I have run my car at 240 with no sideeffects."


By my figures, 240 F converts to 116 C a point considerably higher than the 88 C recommended and also arguably higher than the 90-95 C suggested by some as tolerable on the street.

I have no idea of other changes that Michael made to his car but he does say that the temps are higher with Evans than with traditional coolant. That is a good thing to know and consistent with the information given to me by the team. I would be interested to find out if others running this stuff are also experiencing the higher operating temps.
Old 10-22-02, 03:46 PM
  #29  
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yeah, but this is just one guy's explanation to try and justify his higher operating temps. this is not necessarily what is happening. if his water temps were lower he'd think the product was working too. but since it turned out to be higher he's gonna want to think it's working cause he doesn't want to feel he wasted his money. the fact is he, nor anyone, knows for sure if higher water temps w/ the evans is a good thing.
Old 10-22-02, 03:51 PM
  #30  
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I have also heard that the NPG has more resistance than water, I don't know if this would effect how some sensers operate?? In my car I have not seen any higher temps with the NPG + after getting the air pockets out.
Old 10-22-02, 04:37 PM
  #31  
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Originally posted by fdracer
yeah, but this is just one guy's explanation to try and justify his higher operating temps. this is not necessarily what is happening. if his water temps were lower he'd think the product was working too. but since it turned out to be higher he's gonna want to think it's working cause he doesn't want to feel he wasted his money. the fact is he, nor anyone, knows for sure if higher water temps w/ the evans is a good thing.
Actually the guys at Evans seem to suggest that a slightly higher temp will occur when using their product however, they also suggest that the final temps should be within the normal operational parameters but more consistent (less swings in temp within those parameters).
Old 10-24-02, 04:21 AM
  #32  
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IIRC, heat transfer is proportional to the temperature difference between the hot and cold parts. So I don't see how hotter coolant could possibly keep the engine cooler. Of course that may not be as important as eliminating hot spots, especially at O-ring failure points...
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