I'M GETTING MORE RESPONSES ABOUT THE ALTERNATOR!! Do a voltage test.If u dont know how to, pm or IM me and Ill explain it to you.

 

ive been told that having a bad rotor sounds like the car is about to start but will over spin its self, i had a 85 that the read rotor was blown, sounded like it wanted to start but the seal was melted on the rotor.good luck

 

Have you unhooked the Crane unit to see? You could always do the old shade tree mechanic trick of pulling the plug wire on each and setting it near soemthing metal that is ground to the car (strut bar), and have someone turn the car over...if its firing, you'll see it arc out to the metal. Of course, testing the coils is best, but more time consuming, this just lets you know its atleast trying to fire.

try unhooking the crane unit and crank it with it totally disabled. Its a known problem with cranes, msd's, and jacobs or the units going bad over time, or buring out the coils.

Tim Benton

 

I did the old spark plug test and I see that the plugs are definately firing off beat. The good news is that she cranks up easy now and theres good steady compression. Bad news is that to disconnect the Crane I gotta go buy a new ignition harness. The coils look fine but I don't know how to test them for sure. Should I disconnect the Crane first? or replace the coils?

 

I TOLD U YESTERDAY HOW TO CHECK THE COILS!!!! IF U DONT HAVE AN ELECTRIC/OHM METER GET ONE!!!! THEY'RE CHEAP!!!

 

since the coils are around $400 or more, I can't remember for sure, I'd disconnect the crane unti first and see how it runs. you should be able to unhack the hack job you had to do to get the crane running with the stock ignition. if its not that, then check the coils next like Justin said, but disconnection the crane costs no money, just time. Checking the coils cost money and time since you'd have to buy a tester (unless you have one). if you have one, then heck, check the coils first and see if they are firing.

Tim Benton

 

How cheap is an ohm meter? and where can I get one. Thanks guys in advance for your help.

 

Ohm meters are on sale at Harbor freight right now. I think around $6 or so for a DMM. Cheap. If you break it or the batteries go dead, just go get a new one. I have a Fluke for the more precise stuff, though.
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=41738
There are others too if this one is too cheap.

 

Your car behaves much like you would if one of your lungs were not working and you were trying to run down the road.

 

I was due for a fuel filter change. Could the fuel filters be that clogged?

 

it shouldn't been the fuel filter since you wouldn't have to do the unflood tricks to get it to crank from all the excess fuel on your spark plugs and in the chambers.

Tim Benton

 

This thread is getting old, but I would have to say its a problem with the Crane.. One day I though the motor was gone on my TII, it barely started, would die if I didn't keep it running above 1500 rpm, was really slow to rev and was rocking back and forth, sounds like the big bad blown motor syndrome doesn't it, the truth of the matter was I forgot to plug in the MSD that was running the leading coils, so it was running on trailings only, it was not blown, and I think sometimes the ignition is overlooked and I would hate to guess how many rotaries have been pulled when it was just an ignition problem...

As for the vaccum reading, I have a streetported 3 mm 13bt, it pulls 12" inches , and its not blown, if I saw the guage jumping around alot at idle, that would be a better indicator of a blown motor..Max

 

Max,

I'm more curious than anything concerning the vaccum to compression numbers, especially with streetported motors. We all know 17 on the vacuum side is considered good for a stock motor. With streetport numbers it varies, now from 12 with yours to around 14 to 15. Have you done a compression check lately? Just wondering what a 12 on the vacuum side means compression wise.

Tim Benton

 

I checked mine about a week ago, right after I got a boost spike of 17 psi, the car took off like a scolded cat, and I was a little worried, I have the 3 good bumps on each rotor, and cranking pressure was around 110-115 psi, the Tii's(87) being the lowest of the compression ratio's will give you lower numbers than say they 89-91 na's and such, but the streetport which alters intake duration and overlap a bit, will lower your vaccuum as compared to the stock port, just like the cam in a v-8, more cam, less vacuum. I would put the absolute bottom number you should have at 8" of vaccuum, anything below, the power brakes won't work properly.
I am really convinced though that 3mm's don't seal that great in re machined rotors, and my motor would be better off with 2mm's. The rotors in my motor were machined for the 3mm's and in reading and discussions with some rotary shops, the chances of the machining being 100% spot on is about 1 out of 10, this could also be the cause of my lower vaccuum readings, there could be something wrong, but its not a blown motor in my case, its just the way the motor was put together.
Racing beat is absolutely against remachining the rotors, they say it can never be done properly without extensive knowledge of seal movement and groove profile, at the first sign of trouble with this motor, I am going to build a 2mm rew for the car..Max

 

great info and thanks for the response. It does seem now, over time, that the 3 mm is falling out of grace with most reputable tuners, I can remember 5 years ago when 3 mm was the ****. Now it seems they aren't. If my engine ever goes, I'll stick with the 2 mm seals myself.

Tim Benton

 

Yes, it became popular to save rotors that had the groove messed up, and was supposedly stronger, which they may be,but as the rotary evolved the seals got thinner, I would say that Mazda did that for reasons other than just cost, there has to be something advantageous to the thinner seals. The other thing about the thicker seals, is it has basically shifted damage from overboost from the seals to the endplates and what not. Max

 

Have you checked your injectors? If your ignition is ok I'd check the injectors. The only prob is you'd have to send them off.

Tim - at 900 - 1000rpms, I pull about 430mm of vacume according to the PFC but about 12in according to the boost gauge. You know how they read different. Anyway I have a streetport. Its been pulling that since fresh so its not blown.

Just thought I'd throw that in for comparison.

Tim - email me at SJWhite2000@aol.com I wanted to ask you something about your turbo situation

Later,
STEPHEN

 

I don't suppose it's something stupid like a loose hose to the MAP sensor - FD's are notorious for popping the MAP hose and sounding like a dead motor...



-Ted