louved_gen1

Im in the process of gathering things for my engine to make it more suitable for high rpms and need a little help. I'm looking for a set of s5 rotors and counterweights right now and so far thats all I've got in mind except for possibly the 80psi oil pressure regulator from Racing Beat. If it helps, my ultimate goal for my engine is a streetable full bridge that is capable of reaching 9000rpm everyonce in a while. Any help or advice on making my engine more reliable at these high engine speeds would be greatful. thanks, Steve

smnc

Hardened stationary gears, ceramic apex seals...

louved_gen1

Ive considered both but are they completely necessary? Explain.

smnc

Well, it really depends on what you're doing with the car.

If you're just talking about occasionally bliping the thottle up past 8k, or actually driving up in that range.

Apex seals start to "chatter" at high revs. that is, they skip along the rotor housing, damaging the seal and housing. They also don't seal terribly well past 8k.
Ceramic seals are designed to address these problems and run in the high rev range. However, they don't seal too well, down low, so you'll lose some of your low-end power.

Another potential problem is damaging the stationary gears. Metal fatigue can be an issue if going past the redline repeatedly. The hardend gears are more duarable, and will hold up better.

I also remebered, make sure to upgrade your oil cooler lines to Stainless Braid. NOTHING sucks more than blowing an oil line.

Plus you might want to consider a reduced pully system. Your water pump wasn't designed to run at those kinds of revs. Cavitation (air bubles)can form in the pump, and that's REAL bad.

louved_gen1

Its going to be street driven so it wont be riding 9000rpms just hitting it in between hard shifts. would ceramic seals be reliable for say 30,000 miles?? thanks for the great information.

chairchild

if you're only going to occasionaly "blip" to 9k, then all you need to do is jump up your oil pressure



just try not to stay there for long, as it's BAD for the engine!

louved_gen1

Well i was kinda planning on buying the racingbeat 80psi regulator and stainless oil lines? I have probably come to close to 9000rpm before (buried the tach in my fb) and it didnt have any problem but ive only done that a few times. Otherwise I would always shift at 8k.

smnc

As he said, for occasional blips, oil pressure should be fine. I, personally, would do the oil cooler lines too, but everything else should be fine stock.

The RB stuff should be perfect for your application.

smnc

Generally I shift around 6500-8k rpm. That's pretty much where peak power is. After that, things pretty much flatten out.

The only time I sift higher is when I'm really pushing hard. My ported motor ran great, and I've taken past 8k once or twice...

louved_gen1

Well that was when my engine was 1/2 bridged and it pulled all the way to 8000 and past that easily it just didnt get there fast enough for me...lol. I plan on getting a 4.88 by the time my car is done so given that I can shift at 9000rpm will help reduce the short gear feeling plus give me alot more torque.

smnc

I hear that. Even with just my big streetport my car pulled strongly up past the redline. It just pulled slightly less after about 7k

I too was starting to the "shot gear blues"...

Of course Now I'm building a new car...

louved_gen1

Yeah im building up this engine getting a 4.88 and shootin some paint on my widebody. Itll be like getting a new car

smnc

Sweet!