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Help with idle, blown seal?

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Old May 16, 2002 | 11:39 PM
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Help with idle, blown seal?

Alright on the car I purchased (I'm sure plenty of people have read about it already) it doesn't idle at 1400 anymore, in fact when you turn the key it revs up and then immediately dies. For those of you who don't know it's an 89 TurboII. If you start it up and press down and hold the gas before it dies, you can keep the car running. After awhile of driving (and keeping the RPMS above 2k) when you come to a stop sign or something and try to let it idle, it will bounce between 1-1000rpms and eventually die (after maybe 5-20 seconds). There is (I found out later) a full 2 1/2 inch exhaust system and what looks like a K&N filter. I don't know where to look for an FCD to prevent fuel cut but the engine smells like it's running EXTREMELY rich. (could just be that I'm not used to a completely free flowing exhaust on a rotary). Has anyone encountered this problem? Could someone tell me where to look for an FCD. And does anyone know some things I can check? Does a blown seal make the car behave like this? Is there someway I can check to see if I have a blown seal without having to get the compression checked? Thanks for the help.
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Old May 17, 2002 | 11:55 AM
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It's possible that you could have a vacuum leak. I had a similar problem after I changed my injectors a few years ago.
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Old May 17, 2002 | 12:04 PM
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How could I check for a vacuum leak? Where might it be leaking? Any problem places to look at specifically?

I'm having a rotary mechanic look at it early next week (hopefully) and I'll have him check compression.
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Old May 17, 2002 | 12:22 PM
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Originally posted by BlackDragon
How could I check for a vacuum leak? Where might it be leaking? Any problem places to look at specifically?

I'm having a rotary mechanic look at it early next week (hopefully) and I'll have him check compression.
You could try listening for it at idle, but that may be tough. One way is to spray carburetor cleaner in different areas of the intake, and if it gets sucked in anywhere it should raise the idle a little. That will be where you should look for the leak. The other way is to just take everything apart and make sure its ok.
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Old May 17, 2002 | 04:50 PM
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So I should not use water to check because the water won't compress nor combust correct? Or is water ok to pour over the hoses?
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Old May 20, 2002 | 10:51 AM
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Check your TID for holes or cracks, if you have the tid, how is your BOV connected, if its just open aired, that will give you a killer vacuum leak, check for a broken hose or a leaking intercooler as well, other possibilites include bad vacuum boost on the power brakes,as well as bad solenoids on the vac spider, basically it sounds like you have the vacuum leak from hell...Max
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Old May 20, 2002 | 12:31 PM
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The BOV is "open aired" I believe. Now that you mention the brakes, there is oil (or something) leaking from the bottom of the ABS assembly thing. I'm going to try and get a rotary mechanic to look at it ASAP....
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Old May 20, 2002 | 09:42 PM
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"...the mechanic attaches the tester, the crowd tenses up, boy he better deliver...theres the cranking! It's going....going ITS GOOD! THE COMPRESSION IS GOOD! WOOOO! THE CROWD GOES WILD!"

Alright, so the compression is good. MUST be either a vacuum leak or an intake air leak.

HOWEVER, now my ABS light went on. I believe the ABS unit is leaking oil from the bottom. Any fixes anyone? anyone had this same problem?

Another thing. I had my friend put his hands on the K&N style filter while I revved the engine up to see if there was much air flowing through it and he said that he could barely feel ANY air going past at all. Is that normal? Or does that mean I've for sure got a major intake leak somewhere else in the lines? Thanks for any help you guys can give me.
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