First time Drag Racing
10-05-02, 07:15 PM
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First time Drag Racing
This was my first time drag racing my FD. altitude is around 1100.0 feet and outside temperature was about 75 fahrenheit. I thought I would be in the 12ish but it did not happen. Some helpfull tips would be appreciated.
Rick
R/T....730
60'.... 2.033
330....5.589
1/8.....8.552
MPH...85.00
1000..11.072
1/4.....13.173
MPH...107.78
Mods- Power FC w/ base mod map,12.5 Lbs boost, M2 intake, M2 med intercooler, Pettit downpipe,and racing beat cat back.
Rick
R/T....730
60'.... 2.033
330....5.589
1/8.....8.552
MPH...85.00
1000..11.072
1/4.....13.173
MPH...107.78
Mods- Power FC w/ base mod map,12.5 Lbs boost, M2 intake, M2 med intercooler, Pettit downpipe,and racing beat cat back.
10-10-02, 04:46 PM
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DinoDude
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13.2 on 12.5 lbs of boost is fine. The most important issue is your tires. Good 60' times are 1.5-1.7 & that requires tires that really stick off the line. Can't do it with street tires. What are you running?
10-11-02, 06:49 PM
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Originally posted by tcb100
13.2 on 12.5 lbs of boost is fine. The most important issue is your tires. Good 60' times are 1.5-1.7 & that requires tires that really stick off the line. Can't do it with street tires. What are you running?
13.2 on 12.5 lbs of boost is fine. The most important issue is your tires. Good 60' times are 1.5-1.7 & that requires tires that really stick off the line. Can't do it with street tires. What are you running?
However, I have read other1/4 mile threads W/ similar mods and they were slower of the line but faster 1/8 and 1/4 speeds. Would a High flow cat gain me 2-3 MPH on top or do I have to up the boost?
Thanks
Rick
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10-11-02, 10:41 PM
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Rick, let me give you the advice Peter Farrell gave me: the first thing to do is go buy a set of Mickey Thompson ET Streets & put them on stock rims.
They are bias belted tires and they stick without putting your rear axles at risk. Rev it to 5,000 & dump the clutch. No slip, just slingshot. An astounding difference.
That will get your 60' times into a more reasonable range & you will have a fix on what the car actually does. You don't yet know what the car will do with all that spinning your wheels in 1st & 2nd.
Start there.
Tom
They are bias belted tires and they stick without putting your rear axles at risk. Rev it to 5,000 & dump the clutch. No slip, just slingshot. An astounding difference.
That will get your 60' times into a more reasonable range & you will have a fix on what the car actually does. You don't yet know what the car will do with all that spinning your wheels in 1st & 2nd.
Start there.
Tom
10-12-02, 10:40 AM
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Originally posted by tcb100
Rick, let me give you the advice Peter Farrell gave me: the first thing to do is go buy a set of Mickey Thompson ET Streets & put them on stock rims.
They are bias belted tires and they stick without putting your rear axles at risk. Rev it to 5,000 & dump the clutch. No slip, just slingshot. An astounding difference.
That will get your 60' times into a more reasonable range & you will have a fix on what the car actually does. You don't yet know what the car will do with all that spinning your wheels in 1st & 2nd.
Start there.
Tom
Rick, let me give you the advice Peter Farrell gave me: the first thing to do is go buy a set of Mickey Thompson ET Streets & put them on stock rims.
They are bias belted tires and they stick without putting your rear axles at risk. Rev it to 5,000 & dump the clutch. No slip, just slingshot. An astounding difference.
That will get your 60' times into a more reasonable range & you will have a fix on what the car actually does. You don't yet know what the car will do with all that spinning your wheels in 1st & 2nd.
Start there.
Tom
Thanks
Rick
10-12-02, 12:37 PM
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MT ET Streets, 26x 10.5 x 16. Get a good tire pressure gauge & when you get to the track, drop the pressure to 15 lbs. Thompson recommends that the tires should be within 20 degrees of the track temp so just a brief burn-out will do.
They are fine to drive to and from the track on, that is why they were invented - just understand that they only have little groves for "tread" to keep them DOT legal so you have zero wet traction.
And do not fool around on corners with a mix of radial and bias tires. The car will not handle the way you are used to. Once you are at the track however, they do exactly what you want them to: hook up and go.
They are single purpose tires, for the drags, so its best to get a spare set of rims, get em mounted and balanced, and just put them on when you are going to the track. The tracks all have air pumps so put them back up to 35 or so for the ride home.
Again, this is the starting point. With a 13.2 on street tires, you will easily be in the 12s, with no additional goodies.
They are fine to drive to and from the track on, that is why they were invented - just understand that they only have little groves for "tread" to keep them DOT legal so you have zero wet traction.
And do not fool around on corners with a mix of radial and bias tires. The car will not handle the way you are used to. Once you are at the track however, they do exactly what you want them to: hook up and go.
They are single purpose tires, for the drags, so its best to get a spare set of rims, get em mounted and balanced, and just put them on when you are going to the track. The tracks all have air pumps so put them back up to 35 or so for the ride home.
Again, this is the starting point. With a 13.2 on street tires, you will easily be in the 12s, with no additional goodies.
10-12-02, 04:07 PM
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Originally posted by tcb100
MT ET Streets, 26x 10.5 x 16. Get a good tire pressure gauge & when you get to the track, drop the pressure to 15 lbs. Thompson recommends that the tires should be within 20 degrees of the track temp so just a brief burn-out will do.
They are fine to drive to and from the track on, that is why they were invented - just understand that they only have little groves for "tread" to keep them DOT legal so you have zero wet traction.
And do not fool around on corners with a mix of radial and bias tires. The car will not handle the way you are used to. Once you are at the track however, they do exactly what you want them to: hook up and go.
They are single purpose tires, for the drags, so its best to get a spare set of rims, get em mounted and balanced, and just put them on when you are going to the track. The tracks all have air pumps so put them back up to 35 or so for the ride home.
Again, this is the starting point. With a 13.2 on street tires, you will easily be in the 12s, with no additional goodies.
MT ET Streets, 26x 10.5 x 16. Get a good tire pressure gauge & when you get to the track, drop the pressure to 15 lbs. Thompson recommends that the tires should be within 20 degrees of the track temp so just a brief burn-out will do.
They are fine to drive to and from the track on, that is why they were invented - just understand that they only have little groves for "tread" to keep them DOT legal so you have zero wet traction.
And do not fool around on corners with a mix of radial and bias tires. The car will not handle the way you are used to. Once you are at the track however, they do exactly what you want them to: hook up and go.
They are single purpose tires, for the drags, so its best to get a spare set of rims, get em mounted and balanced, and just put them on when you are going to the track. The tracks all have air pumps so put them back up to 35 or so for the ride home.
Again, this is the starting point. With a 13.2 on street tires, you will easily be in the 12s, with no additional goodies.
Thanks
Rick
10-13-02, 11:23 AM
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Originally posted by tcb100
Your rear tires are used to launch the car. Use ET Streets. Your front tires are used to steer the car. What you have on right now is just dandy.
Your rear tires are used to launch the car. Use ET Streets. Your front tires are used to steer the car. What you have on right now is just dandy.
I do not want to run 18x9 wheels in the front and 16x8 wheels in the back. I was thinking more towards lighter wheels and tires for the front. I have the wheels. Thanks
Rick
10-13-02, 11:58 AM
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I was kidding. I did not realize you were running 18s. There is nothing wrong with the stock rims & used, they are pretty cheap here on the forum. They are light so if you still have them they are fine. Pettit & Farrell both told me that the stock rims are all you need unless you plan to squeeze every hundreth out of the car.
The ET Streets only weigh about 20 lbs. & the stock rims go about 15.5 lbs. As far as tires for the front go I don't think it matters much, I have never seen a comment about that by the serious racers, just high quality Z rated at street pressures or a little higher. I have Michelin Pilots that I think are on the heavy side (but great in the rain) as my street tire. The RX-7's suspension was designed for a 15.5 lb wheel and a tire of less than 23 lbs. so I think you can just pick one of the many good street tires out there. Drag racing is so much the launch that its the rears that matter.
Tom
The ET Streets only weigh about 20 lbs. & the stock rims go about 15.5 lbs. As far as tires for the front go I don't think it matters much, I have never seen a comment about that by the serious racers, just high quality Z rated at street pressures or a little higher. I have Michelin Pilots that I think are on the heavy side (but great in the rain) as my street tire. The RX-7's suspension was designed for a 15.5 lb wheel and a tire of less than 23 lbs. so I think you can just pick one of the many good street tires out there. Drag racing is so much the launch that its the rears that matter.
Tom
10-13-02, 10:42 PM
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Re: First time Drag Racing
Originally posted by RICKRX7
This was my first time drag racing my FD. altitude is around 1100.0 feet and outside temperature was about 75 fahrenheit. I thought I would be in the 12ish but it did not happen. Some helpfull tips would be appreciated.
Rick
R/T....730
60'.... 2.033
330....5.589
1/8.....8.552
MPH...85.00
1000..11.072
1/4.....13.173
MPH...107.78
Mods- Power FC w/ base mod map,12.5 Lbs boost, M2 intake, M2 med intercooler, Pettit downpipe,and racing beat cat back.
This was my first time drag racing my FD. altitude is around 1100.0 feet and outside temperature was about 75 fahrenheit. I thought I would be in the 12ish but it did not happen. Some helpfull tips would be appreciated.
Rick
R/T....730
60'.... 2.033
330....5.589
1/8.....8.552
MPH...85.00
1000..11.072
1/4.....13.173
MPH...107.78
Mods- Power FC w/ base mod map,12.5 Lbs boost, M2 intake, M2 med intercooler, Pettit downpipe,and racing beat cat back.
10-14-02, 08:55 PM
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Re: Re: First time Drag Racing
Originally posted by 93redFD
well, first of all, Im sure the factory clutch is slipping some. those street slicks are going to make it slick really bad. If would stay away from the drag strip untill you get a better clutch. Once it slips bad the first time it slips all the time, atleast that is what mu clutch did. witha good clutch and drag radials you should be some where in low to mid 12's.
well, first of all, Im sure the factory clutch is slipping some. those street slicks are going to make it slick really bad. If would stay away from the drag strip untill you get a better clutch. Once it slips bad the first time it slips all the time, atleast that is what mu clutch did. witha good clutch and drag radials you should be some where in low to mid 12's.
thanks
Rick
10-16-02, 09:41 AM
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That's a pretty strong time for those mods but like what has already been stated new clutch, new tires=12s. Just watch you don't get too carried away with that boost. 12.5 is running on that fine line as far as rotaries
10-16-02, 10:08 AM
#19
Eats, Sleeps, Dreams Rotary
i dont think u need a clutch.
Also, that was an excellent launch for street tires.
I would think your et should be alittle lower and a higher mph as well. You should be in the 12s with that 60'. I think i read you have 18s...maybe thats it.
Also, that was an excellent launch for street tires.
I would think your et should be alittle lower and a higher mph as well. You should be in the 12s with that 60'. I think i read you have 18s...maybe thats it.
10-16-02, 09:26 PM
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A little drag racing info:
ET= Elapsed Time
Trap Speed= final speed
18" rims may be slightly heavy for Drag racing, that places alot of the weight towards the outside of the wheel/tire combo. This imposes more resistance. With rotating mass, the closer the mass to the pivot point the less resistance. Putting that much weight towards the outer part of the wheel/tire creates a larger moment arm.
I suggest putting the ET Streets on a second set of factory rims, or even going to 15" rims, and bring them to the track with you. Put them on at the track, you will save alot of mileage on the tires that way. They are not cheap tires and also incase you get stuck in rain on the way there or back. If you are wanting to change the front tires go with skinny 15's. That would be ideal for drag racing. Another advantage to using 15's on the rear is the sidewall wrinkle. ET Streets are designed so that the side wall will wrinkle and absorb power without breaking traction. This stored power is then released later. Watch the professional drag racers, and you can actually see the tires wrinkle when they launch.
ET= Elapsed Time
Trap Speed= final speed
18" rims may be slightly heavy for Drag racing, that places alot of the weight towards the outside of the wheel/tire combo. This imposes more resistance. With rotating mass, the closer the mass to the pivot point the less resistance. Putting that much weight towards the outer part of the wheel/tire creates a larger moment arm.
I suggest putting the ET Streets on a second set of factory rims, or even going to 15" rims, and bring them to the track with you. Put them on at the track, you will save alot of mileage on the tires that way. They are not cheap tires and also incase you get stuck in rain on the way there or back. If you are wanting to change the front tires go with skinny 15's. That would be ideal for drag racing. Another advantage to using 15's on the rear is the sidewall wrinkle. ET Streets are designed so that the side wall will wrinkle and absorb power without breaking traction. This stored power is then released later. Watch the professional drag racers, and you can actually see the tires wrinkle when they launch.
10-16-02, 10:58 PM
#23
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Originally posted by FD3S LIGHTNING
... Just watch you don't get too carried away with that boost. 12.5 is running on that fine line as far as rotaries
... Just watch you don't get too carried away with that boost. 12.5 is running on that fine line as far as rotaries
It's the boost by RPMs and the AFR to be exact. If you tune for the boost, the ambient temperatures and altitude (assuming you have enough fuel you can get through the injectors) you can run higher boost.
Albeit, I only ran a best time of 12.5 with horrible launchs (until I learned to warm up the ET Streets and drop at 5500rpm) but I was running solid rich AFR at 14 psi with a good warm weather tune.
Horrible driving, but much fun!
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