Okay, first of all I've been lurking this site for a long time deciding whether or not I wanted to get into rotaries. I'm looking to buy either a FC Turbo II or a 3rd gen. Here's my questions, can I make 350-400 reliably ? I'm willing to spend the money to do right once, this will be my daily driver most of the time and I need it not to explode. I would also like some proven platforms. I read about guys making 600+ hp in magazines all the time, and I don't that is realistic. I don't need that much hp anyways. I want to build my car to run on pump gas, (no alky injection) etc., not a shitload of boost, no nitrous and behave like a street car. So, any help that you guys can give me to sway me to the rotary will be appreciated greatly. Thanks in advance. Tim.

 

Reliably, yes. Aslong as you take care of the car, it wont let you down. rotarys are just needy, not unreliable

the #'s your looking for are also attainable on pumpgas

as for proven setups, opening up the intake and exhaust ports and runninig turbosetups such as a t04s, gt35, pt67 to name a quick few all could get you the power you want, and have been built many times over. a search for 'gt35 dyno' or something similar should result in a bunch of threads with members completed setups with graphs

id post more however i have to work, hope to see you in a rotary soon

 

Reliable?
20B + FC FTW
Please have $20,000 in your bank account before starting.
It would be nice to have another $10k just in case.


-Ted

 

Thanks CrackHeadMel.

 

Yes, definately a 20b for reliable 400hp from rotors. Or a 5.0 can do it with about a grand and a half in parts, plus labor to swap it into the chassis.

 

Yeah, I agree with Ted also. As far as the rotary engine is concerned, the 20B will definitely be reliable (but expensive) at those power levels.

Although, GtoRx7 has his N/A 20B which makes about 350 whp on 89 octane, and non-turbo rotaries are typically VERY reliable. Check his thread out in the 20B section, I believe he said he had a bit over $12k in the swap alone. Which isn't too bad, but that obviously doesn't include the cost of the car.

 

No 20b's.

 

mel pretty much hit it on the head, porting with any of those turbo setups will get you there, rx6 is also an option but a bit more expensive than the other setups listed. here are some more details you will need to cover:

fuel: bigger pump,bigger/ more injectors. most will swap out the stock secondaries for 1680's which requires a new fuel rail, lines, and fuel pressure regulator as well.

ecu: while it could probly be done with a piggyback, a stand alone like the power fc, microtec, haltec, etc. is your best bet.

Ign: you can run that power on the stock ignition but i would suggest an upgrade just to be safe, you can go with a plug and like like the hks or a full system like msd or jacobs.

Ic: you will need an intercooler, stock mount, front mount or v-mount should all work just fine for what you want.

Rad: I would suggest a radiator upgrade, for longevity reasons.

Hoses: while you are doing all of this you will need to replace the remaining vacuum lines with some new silicone.

Wiring: you may need a new wiring harness, many of these cars need them replaced, they get old and brittle and brake very easily.

Clutch: you will be pushing the limits of the stock clutch if not exceeding them, you will need some sort of upgraded clutch, probly a street/strip since you want to dd it.

Boost controller: if your ecu doesn't come with one, you will need it.

Tires: decent tires make a huuuge difference on a car putting out that much power.

Ast: get an aluminum one, the stockers are junk.

Turbo extras: If you don't buy a whole kit, you will need to get things like manifold, down pipe, coolant/oil lines/fittings....

ic piping: I know it's obvious but needs to be considered in your budget.

I know I am forgetting some things but that is the bulk of it. You should also consider coating the turbine housing manifold and down pipe with a ceramic coating and or wrapping them, getting rid of as much under hood temperature as possible will help quite a bit it keeping it reliable.

Hope that all helps.

 

Actually porting isn't necessary for his power goals. 13b in the Fd will make that power easily on a stock engine.


NoFive0, yodaddy is pretty much right on with everything you need to run that set-up reliably. Since reliability is your biggest concern, I would run RA apex seals since they are more knock resistant than the stockers. Also regardless of all the supporting mods you have, nothing will work right unless you have the set-up expertly "TUNED". Make sure your tuner doesn't tune to the ragged edge. It's not worth the few extra ponies you get. With the boost levels needed to reach your hp goals, I would shoot for A/F ratios no higher than the lower 11's.

 

Thanks guys.

 

whats the RA stand for?

 

Rotary Aviation. They're a company that sells seals, among other things.