experience with sintered iron clutch disk
04-30-03, 11:37 AM
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experience with sintered iron clutch disk
i'm having a hard time getting into gear at high rpm with my new clutch setup. just wondering if anyone else has any experience with the same setup as me. i doubt it but i figure its worth a shot 
04-30-03, 12:38 PM
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Vokso,
Are you running a full face or 6 puck, etc.? Unsprung? (How much horsepower are you running btw?). What flywheel are you using (stock, aluminum, steel, etc.)?
I have run cars w/ a full face (organic/organic and sprung hub), 6 pucks (kevlar/organic and unsprung) (copper and unsprung), and a 3 puck (don't remember).
What brand are you using (or is it a custom one)?
You may need a stronger pressure plate. A stronger pressure plate will help w/ your poor grip/slippage problem. But alternatively, you may want to look towards using a different friction material (depending on your power levels). I don't know how much you are currently running, so I will wait for your answer.
Are you running a full face or 6 puck, etc.? Unsprung? (How much horsepower are you running btw?). What flywheel are you using (stock, aluminum, steel, etc.)?
I have run cars w/ a full face (organic/organic and sprung hub), 6 pucks (kevlar/organic and unsprung) (copper and unsprung), and a 3 puck (don't remember).
What brand are you using (or is it a custom one)?
You may need a stronger pressure plate. A stronger pressure plate will help w/ your poor grip/slippage problem. But alternatively, you may want to look towards using a different friction material (depending on your power levels). I don't know how much you are currently running, so I will wait for your answer.
04-30-03, 01:11 PM
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it is a full face disk, unsprung, car made 459rwhp on the dyno... detuned it a little bit probably making 420-440 rhwp right now. using stock FD flywheel.
i annhilated an act extreme pp and 4 puck bronze clutch in 2k miles previous to this iron clutch.
it is an ACT disk and ACT extreme PP. PP is rated for 450lb/ft of torque so it should have enough clamping force.
power goal is above 500 RHWP on race gas. i can barely drive the car with the power it has now......
i annhilated an act extreme pp and 4 puck bronze clutch in 2k miles previous to this iron clutch.
it is an ACT disk and ACT extreme PP. PP is rated for 450lb/ft of torque so it should have enough clamping force.
power goal is above 500 RHWP on race gas. i can barely drive the car with the power it has now......
04-30-03, 02:10 PM
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This is info that I grabbed off a website:
"Applications up to 500HP. Good for drag racing and high horsepower street applications. Sintered Iron friction material should not be used with a stock flywheel. "
"Sintered Iron friction material - Popular for drag racers, it works great for high HP street cars also. It has a higher coefficient of friction than Kevlar when hot and does not chatter. Use only with a steel or aluminum flywheel."
I agree w/ those statements. I don't think you should use the stock flywheel. Also, the unsprung hub may be what is helping to "break stuff".
Most of the time, when people are making as much power as you, people tend to choose "puck" disks rather than solid faces (it grabs better). I would recommend a 6 puck if you are using the FD as your daily driver. (A friend of mind drove around w/ a 3 puck. He is nuts!!!!). The "pucks" make the clutch grab harder and more suddenly. So, while it is easy to just inch up on the car ahead of you (when parking) with a full face, w/ a "puck" disks, it makes the car jump forward when the clutch "grabs". Just takes a while to get used to.
The less number of pucks, the stronger the clutch will suddenly "grab".
BTW, what type of clutch, tranny, and diff fluid are you using?
"Applications up to 500HP. Good for drag racing and high horsepower street applications. Sintered Iron friction material should not be used with a stock flywheel. "
"Sintered Iron friction material - Popular for drag racers, it works great for high HP street cars also. It has a higher coefficient of friction than Kevlar when hot and does not chatter. Use only with a steel or aluminum flywheel."
I agree w/ those statements. I don't think you should use the stock flywheel. Also, the unsprung hub may be what is helping to "break stuff".
Most of the time, when people are making as much power as you, people tend to choose "puck" disks rather than solid faces (it grabs better). I would recommend a 6 puck if you are using the FD as your daily driver. (A friend of mind drove around w/ a 3 puck. He is nuts!!!!). The "pucks" make the clutch grab harder and more suddenly. So, while it is easy to just inch up on the car ahead of you (when parking) with a full face, w/ a "puck" disks, it makes the car jump forward when the clutch "grabs". Just takes a while to get used to.
The less number of pucks, the stronger the clutch will suddenly "grab".
BTW, what type of clutch, tranny, and diff fluid are you using?
Last edited by DomFD3S; 04-30-03 at 02:28 PM.
05-01-03, 12:56 AM
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hmm clutch fluid i don't know
tranny amsoil synthetic 75w90
diff kaaz oil
i had a 4 puck in the car that i DESTROYED. i drove that daily with no problems. the sintered iron actually has a lighter pedal feel
well the clutch is in the car and it works.... until it breaks its staying in. i might get adventurous and change the clutch fluid and change the clutch master .................
tranny amsoil synthetic 75w90
diff kaaz oil
i had a 4 puck in the car that i DESTROYED. i drove that daily with no problems. the sintered iron actually has a lighter pedal feel
well the clutch is in the car and it works.... until it breaks its staying in. i might get adventurous and change the clutch fluid and change the clutch master .................
05-01-03, 01:09 AM
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My theory: Why add more clamping pressure when you can add more surface area? In other words twin/triple disk clutches with the appropriate force are worth the extra expense IMO 
05-01-03, 01:11 AM
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Originally posted by relvinnian
My theory: Why add more clamping pressure when you can add more surface area? In other words twin/triple disk clutches with the appropriate force are worth the extra expense IMO
My theory: Why add more clamping pressure when you can add more surface area? In other words twin/triple disk clutches with the appropriate force are worth the extra expense IMO
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05-04-03, 09:06 PM
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i have had a pos centerforce on my car with stock flywheel for 15k miles on my t78 and streetported motor but i have never destroyed it yet(knocks on wood) but then i had a stock clutch on my 435rwhp trans am too soooo maybe im just less aggressive on clutches than i think i am?
05-04-03, 09:13 PM
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i have had a pos centerforce on my car with stock flywheel for 15k miles on my t78 and streetported motor but i have never destroyed it yet(knocks on wood) but then i had a stock clutch on my 435rwhp trans am too soooo maybe im just less aggressive on clutches than i think i am?
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