Engine Pic's(The Pro's will appreciate)...
07-01-06, 08:22 AM
#27
Originally Posted by now
i guess these stud kits still dont come with cap nuts
http://mahjik.homestead.com/files/FD...7/DSCF0448.jpg
07-01-06, 06:09 PM
#31
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Originally Posted by now
those still dont look like cap nuts,
a cap not would insure that no coolant would leak past the threads.
a cap not would insure that no coolant would leak past the threads.
07-01-06, 07:37 PM
#33
Originally Posted by now
those still dont look like cap nuts,
a cap not would insure that no coolant would leak past the threads.
a cap not would insure that no coolant would leak past the threads.
07-01-06, 09:03 PM
#35
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Originally Posted by Kim
.
07-01-06, 09:33 PM
#36
Originally Posted by ErnieT
They pro's in Australia have been using them for a decade. I have no worries as does Pica, Abel, etc...
like a cap nut would solve the minor coolant leaks you will get past the threads.
I cant believe that such a simple thing isn't being used, that's all.
matt
07-02-06, 12:26 AM
#37
Senior Member
First off thanks for putting up the pics of your build. It's some good rotography.
It's called shrink fit. It works great for metals with similar thermal expansion rates but watch out when you have localized heating or dissimilar metals. It also gets a bit tricky when the temps equalize before you get the parts seated... then you really understand just how good the hold really is.
Unfortunatly I've never applied the technique to anything near this cool though...
Keep up the awesome work (and the pics
)!
And as to the nuts, Did you notice the shape? they are 12pt (probably ARP) nuts. Even Ron Jeremy is jelous of deez nuts. If coolant leaking past the thread is a worry then a little loctite thread sealant should be used.
Try and find Acorn nuts with these specs:
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...t=arp-300-8336
The iron was put in an oven and the center bearing was cooled in the fridge for a day. It was then placed in and held in with a type of ring. Don't know the technical name for it....lol....The machine shop did that too.
Unfortunatly I've never applied the technique to anything near this cool though...
Keep up the awesome work (and the pics
)!And as to the nuts, Did you notice the shape? they are 12pt (probably ARP) nuts. Even Ron Jeremy is jelous of deez nuts. If coolant leaking past the thread is a worry then a little loctite thread sealant should be used.
Try and find Acorn nuts with these specs:
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...t=arp-300-8336
Last edited by RXBeetle; 07-02-06 at 12:43 AM.
07-02-06, 12:02 PM
#39
the mazda zoom zoom store
Originally Posted by ErnieT
You must be talking about somebody else. I havn't blown a motor in more than 2yrs. If you have nothing to contribute, don't post on my thread.
And not that its any of your business, but Kevin (FD3 Virgin) on the forum has my old motor. I wanted to build something I could boost over 40psi. Can you do that with your motor?
And not that its any of your business, but Kevin (FD3 Virgin) on the forum has my old motor. I wanted to build something I could boost over 40psi. Can you do that with your motor?
07-02-06, 01:11 PM
#40
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Originally Posted by zayrx7
hey! erine this zavier from rx7store, I thought that since you post about building another motor something happen to the other. I've been building engines for 5yrs now and to answer your question yes I can. Why don't you just do a 20B less boost more power.
07-03-06, 06:46 AM
#41
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Very Nice!
Its good to see that people are still putting loads of effort into the engines they build.
Hmmmm,centre bearing eccentric shaft.. NICE!!!
Thanks for sharing the pics!
Karis
Its good to see that people are still putting loads of effort into the engines they build.
Hmmmm,centre bearing eccentric shaft.. NICE!!!
Thanks for sharing the pics!
Karis
07-03-06, 02:02 PM
#42
I am just saying that a simple thing
like a cap nut would solve the minor coolant leaks you will get past the threads.
I cant believe that such a simple thing isn't being used, that's all.
I have read that capnuts have been used in the past (with a crush washer under it for seeling?) and another solution is to use some Hylomar on the threads and EVAN'S NPG+ in a zero pressure cooling system.
It is great to see a forum member using these trick Aus. bits- finally we will get some feedback and results!
Another charge leveled at GURU products is the roller center bearing will not have the reliability of a non contanct hydrodynamic (standard engine) bearing. I am optomistic on this issue since so many performance applications have used roller bearings in the past and present and there is actually pressurized oil available from the e-shaft (if they designed for this) instead of splash or misting used in standard roller bearing applications.
ErnieT- does the GURU e-shaft have an oil jet for the center bearing or does it depend on oil sloshing out of the rotors and onto the Int. housing?
like a cap nut would solve the minor coolant leaks you will get past the threads.
I cant believe that such a simple thing isn't being used, that's all.
I have read that capnuts have been used in the past (with a crush washer under it for seeling?) and another solution is to use some Hylomar on the threads and EVAN'S NPG+ in a zero pressure cooling system.
It is great to see a forum member using these trick Aus. bits- finally we will get some feedback and results!
Another charge leveled at GURU products is the roller center bearing will not have the reliability of a non contanct hydrodynamic (standard engine) bearing. I am optomistic on this issue since so many performance applications have used roller bearings in the past and present and there is actually pressurized oil available from the e-shaft (if they designed for this) instead of splash or misting used in standard roller bearing applications.
ErnieT- does the GURU e-shaft have an oil jet for the center bearing or does it depend on oil sloshing out of the rotors and onto the Int. housing?
07-03-06, 11:50 PM
#44
8.12 @18psi
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We had our crank bind up slightly when we would turn the motor. It was the rotors touching the irons. acouple of people had the same problems too. good luck with yours. the only thing other than the center bearing is to notch the a piece sticking otu of the rotor so that the crank can spin.
07-04-06, 12:03 AM
#45
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Originally Posted by jdmluver
We had our crank bind up slightly when we would turn the motor. It was the rotors touching the irons. acouple of people had the same problems too. good luck with yours. the only thing other than the center bearing is to notch the a piece sticking otu of the rotor so that the crank can spin.
07-04-06, 01:11 AM
#46
to bad Hylomar is no longer available
Are you sure? I think Permatex just didn't renew their distribution contract with the patent holder (Bently?).
I just bought a big tube of "Valco cincinatti" Hylomar from Mazdatrix.
It has a cancer health warning on it now- is it the new RoHS that made Permatex drop it?
Are you sure? I think Permatex just didn't renew their distribution contract with the patent holder (Bently?).
I just bought a big tube of "Valco cincinatti" Hylomar from Mazdatrix.
It has a cancer health warning on it now- is it the new RoHS that made Permatex drop it?
07-05-06, 12:03 AM
#48
Originally Posted by BLUE TII
to bad Hylomar is no longer available
Are you sure? I think Permatex just didn't renew their distribution contract with the patent holder (Bently?).
I just bought a big tube of "Valco cincinatti" Hylomar from Mazdatrix.
It has a cancer health warning on it now- is it the new RoHS that made Permatex drop it?
Are you sure? I think Permatex just didn't renew their distribution contract with the patent holder (Bently?).
I just bought a big tube of "Valco cincinatti" Hylomar from Mazdatrix.
It has a cancer health warning on it now- is it the new RoHS that made Permatex drop it?
matt
07-06-06, 08:43 AM
#49
Lives on the Forum
Originally Posted by red_ricer
WOW!!! That has got to be one of the coolest things I have seen done lately, I find that center plate idea to be incredible.
I think it was Top Fuel?
-Ted
07-06-06, 05:25 PM
#50
Originally Posted by now
those still dont look like cap nuts,
a cap not would insure that no coolant would leak past the threads.
a cap not would insure that no coolant would leak past the threads.
-S-