does precision engineering have a website?

 

Here are the nuts:

http://mahjik.homestead.com/files/FD...7/DSCF0448.jpg

 

(Drools)

DLC COAT THE E-SHAFT

 

WOW!!! That has got to be one of the coolest things I have seen done lately, I find that center plate idea to be incredible.

 

those still dont look like cap nuts,
a cap not would insure that no coolant would leak past the threads.

 

They pro's in Australia have been using them for a decade. I have no worries as does Pica, Abel, etc...

 

Nice build up!

 

I didn't say they were. I was simply showing you what they look like. From the few people in AU I have seen using them, I have yet to hear them complain of any problems.

 

.

 

The iron was put in an oven and the center bearing was cooled in the fridge for a day. It was then placed in and held in with a type of ring. Don't know the technical name for it....lol....The machine shop did that too.

 

not that the normal nuts are not fine, I am just saying that a simple thing
like a cap nut would solve the minor coolant leaks you will get past the threads.
I cant believe that such a simple thing isn't being used, that's all.
matt

 

First off thanks for putting up the pics of your build. It's some good rotography.

It's called shrink fit. It works great for metals with similar thermal expansion rates but watch out when you have localized heating or dissimilar metals. It also gets a bit tricky when the temps equalize before you get the parts seated... then you really understand just how good the hold really is.
Unfortunatly I've never applied the technique to anything near this cool though...
Keep up the awesome work (and the pics )!

And as to the nuts, Did you notice the shape? they are 12pt (probably ARP) nuts. Even Ron Jeremy is jelous of deez nuts. If coolant leaking past the thread is a worry then a little loctite thread sealant should be used.
Try and find Acorn nuts with these specs:
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...t=arp-300-8336

 

i cant wait for ray to get behind the laptop for my car... soon hopefully i can make a trip down there. when are you going to be there next if your even going there? looks amazing! what a truely solid setup

 

hey! erine this zavier from rx7store, I thought that since you post about building another motor something happen to the other. I've been building engines for 5yrs now and to answer your question yes I can. Why don't you just do a 20B less boost more power.

 

My bad, Zavier. It was taken the wrong way. And Im actually trading my whole setup to Ray in the winter for a 20B. And Im going with a GT45R T6 frame.

 

Very Nice!
Its good to see that people are still putting loads of effort into the engines they build.

Hmmmm,centre bearing eccentric shaft.. NICE!!!

Thanks for sharing the pics!

Karis

 

I am just saying that a simple thing
like a cap nut would solve the minor coolant leaks you will get past the threads.
I cant believe that such a simple thing isn't being used, that's all.

I have read that capnuts have been used in the past (with a crush washer under it for seeling?) and another solution is to use some Hylomar on the threads and EVAN'S NPG+ in a zero pressure cooling system.

It is great to see a forum member using these trick Aus. bits- finally we will get some feedback and results!

Another charge leveled at GURU products is the roller center bearing will not have the reliability of a non contanct hydrodynamic (standard engine) bearing. I am optomistic on this issue since so many performance applications have used roller bearings in the past and present and there is actually pressurized oil available from the e-shaft (if they designed for this) instead of splash or misting used in standard roller bearing applications.

ErnieT- does the GURU e-shaft have an oil jet for the center bearing or does it depend on oil sloshing out of the rotors and onto the Int. housing?

 

to bad Hylomar is no longer available
matt

 

We had our crank bind up slightly when we would turn the motor. It was the rotors touching the irons. acouple of people had the same problems too. good luck with yours. the only thing other than the center bearing is to notch the a piece sticking otu of the rotor so that the crank can spin.

 

I forget exactly what your supposed to do with the rotors to accomadate for the shaft, but I remember Guru sending the instructions and Ray was talking with them about it. I'll know in about two weeks, but Im not worried.

 

to bad Hylomar is no longer available

Are you sure? I think Permatex just didn't renew their distribution contract with the patent holder (Bently?).

I just bought a big tube of "Valco cincinatti" Hylomar from Mazdatrix.

It has a cancer health warning on it now- is it the new RoHS that made Permatex drop it?

 

Hylomar still exists. ValveCo carries it and there's a link to it on NoPistons for where to purchase it.

B

 

in canada it has been removed from the permatex line.
matt

 

Actually, some Japan shop was doing it a few years prior.
I think it was Top Fuel?


-Ted

 

On the next set I do here I have a set of some self sealing o-ringed nuts I will be trying out. Can't be any worse.

-S-