ARTGUY i appreciate it but i dont have a way to scan them or anything. if i could do that then i would be able to post em up. i appreciate the offer though. I think ill be able to get them tommorow. so i might have to email them to you then.Thanks

 

here you go!!





i dont know why it shows as a little square...so here is the link


http://www.conceptart.org/dynosheet/...esGregscar.jpg

 

cant get it to show up in the thread...the link will have to do.

j

 

You guys were doing runs back to back. Did you only increase the boost from run to run or did some fine tuning also? The last run was pretty much the cleanest looking one except for the little spike right at the end.
Next time you go to the dyno make sure you can get the runs in 'SAE Corrected' form. In 'Std' form there's no correction factor added to the runs. Normaly depending on conditions in the dyno room/area the 'Std' version would be about 10 to 13 hp higher than the 'SAE Corrected' one. I have also seen where it's the opposite so that's why the corrected version is important.
There are also differences in the 'mph' vs 'rpm' versions. It's difficult to get proper rpm readings on the dynos also. What works for me is to use the pickup on the #2 trailing wire and set it up to read correctly at 3000 rpm which is normaly at every '360' on the dyno ignition setup area. Also interference/noise is greatly decreased when using new dyno leads that got the filters and ground leads on them. Simply use the engine block as the best ground.
It's sad but true that there are a lot of dyno operators out there that love to fool their customers into believing that they got more power than it is actually. That's why I don't really use the dyno as indictaion of actual power but use it to see differences. In my opinion the only true indication of power would be the time slip at the end of the 1/4 mile!
So take it to the track and shut up the doubters!

crispeed
87 RX-7 TII
9.204@150.47mph
2600lbs
un-tubbed

 

Another easy way to insure the RPM is picked up without "blacking out" use the ignitor leads on the driver fender well(below the cruise control unit in touring models) right to the side of the brake booster/master cylinder. This will get you accurate ignition revs without interference from the engine harness and breakup. The best way to do this is just put the pickup lead around all of the wires in the ignitor lead harness.

 

the uncorrected standard version doesn't take in effect the cold air temps you were seeing up in PA at 5 pm. Although it does show what your car was making that day, at that temp, etc, it's hard to compare those uncorrected runs to a corrected run in warmer air. The dyno operator can easily choose which one to graph with the std one showing more hp in colder temps. Go back and ask him to pull up the same runs and have them in the corrected SAE format, they'll tend to be a little lower but its more indicative of what everyone one else posts, except for Don'tbearikki's plots which were also std and not sae corrected. I might call Arthur at my dyno and have him print my last dyno run (334 rwhp sae corrected) in std format and see what the difference is as well.

Tim

 

I can't see how a 1/4 mile run will give an acurate idea of HP being made, there are just as many variables between one personals runs and another as compared to different dynos etc.

traction, driver ability, temp etc etc etc

 

I think a more accurate way available with good ECU's is to use the logging ability and measure the time taken to travel 7000 to 8000rpm say in 4th, it is easy enough to use data from the car specifics to get the average power developed to accelerate from one speed to another, just make sure you are on a flat road and always use the same section to compare results, also make sure you test on a day when the wind is low.

This will eliminate traction issues and shift time from the equation, this is the method I use to varify my power figures. It is also possible to use an advanced program like car test 2000 to act as a third check to this to once you have gone to a dyno and got your cars power curve. I know with my car that I have use all three methods to act as checks to confirm the power results.

Drag racing will work excellent too if you are a good driver and have no traction problems or shifting difficulties....yeah ther are too many variables for NON drag racing people to F*#@ up and hence get the wrong MPH and think they do not have the power they realy have. I highly recommend car test 2000, this will give you an idea of all the variables involved.

 

That's why the term 'Dyno Queen' was invented!
Although it is not commonly used to describe nimble rx-7's it's generally used to describe S-p-a boats!

crispeed