Sup guys......I have good news and bad news. Good news is this turbo is everything I hoped it would be. Its a beast. Makes good power down low and even more up top. Dave at KDR says it would be capable of 500rwhp easily at 20psi once I go haltech in the spring.
First dyno run Dave (KD Rotary) 12.5 psi, I made 371rwhp...
Second dyno run @ 14 psi........I made 406rwhp by 5500 rpm.....letting out! Here is the bad news. My brand new HKS irridium plug(2weeks old) fouled out and the electrode shot into my new motor.... After a compression check. Its only my rear housing. Dave felt bad for me(kinda hard not to) and said he'd get right to fixing it for me. Hopefully by weeks end. Good thing is since I have heavy duty Hurley long life apex seals, when they break they dont damage the housing of rotor. So the rebuild won't be too long to do. Just sucks, cause its only a 2month old motor. Just a freak thing I suppose.
Dave did say I should have made about 450rwhp on the 14psi run when he let out, by looking at my power curve. It'll be interesting when I run 17.5 psi.......(max w/ the power fc)
I'll keep you guys posted.
Ernie

 

Here is the dyno run @ 12.5psi......I was really impressed how early the turbo made power.

 

the seals *might* not of scarred the housing
but the electrode sure should of...
you got a another hurly apex to put in?

 

good numbers get rid of those hks crap plugs jk. i bet even the guys at hks don't use em. i always see em stick with NGK!!!

fix it fast im getting hungry for some more numbers goodluck

 

It looks good. I'm glad to see that you did something different.

 

Hey Ernie!
Being that the dyno chart is rated in STD Horsepower instead of the general accepted SAE Corrected standards your readings are approx. 10 to 12 hp/tq higher than normal.
You should ask Dave to give you a print out of the runs in SAE Corrected readings.
Do yourself a favor and put some NGK's back in there and leave those Irridiums to magazine racers!

crispeed

 

Gee.......thanks

 

Nicely done!! Impressive horsepower figures. Switch to the Haltech E6K asap and you got a killer Ride!! By the way did you use race fuel or regular gasoline (93 octane)??? Well keep us posted and good luck with your car!!

 

Never seen that happen and i use them all the time.
Are you sure it did not run lean ?
what was the air fuel ratio ?
since its the back you don't have to pull the whole motor apart you can just pull the rear housing off.
hope their not charging you labor?
Makes me think that rotary engines are garbage,run to lean and you blow it .run too rich and you blow it .
how do you foul fine wire plugs under load?
just my 2 cents no need to flame.
Barry

 

if you pull your motor apart,even just the rear housing,you need at a minimum of a set of water seals

 

Water seals arn't a biggie. I used 3 gall. of race fuel. (114) and I fouled a plug not a wire... And no, I didn't run lean. I was running high 11's low 12's A/F which is near perfect. In fact a little on the rich side to be safe. I didn't detonate. Trust me, Dave and I know what detonation is.

 

Very Impressive... That thing spools up as fast or faster than my APEXi turbo. I made 300 RWHP at 5000 rpms at 15 psi.

 

I guess you never looked at the plugs they are called Fine wire because the electrode is made from Iridum and is the size of a pin. now do you think thats what blew your motor ,if you do .you and Dave is full of ..... .Low 12's i think is too lean. you don't need to be perfect on the dyno because when you get to the street its going to lean out. Trust me i know i blew alot of motors
Barry

 

Barry,
It turns out the ceramic on top of the plug is what shot into the engine. And the apex seal IS the only thing damaged. Dave took a digital pic and emailed me. And please, don't try to act as if you know more than Dave does when it comes to the 7. Im sure you know a bit, but Im also just as sure Dave has forgot more than you'll ever know when it comes to these cars. Dave has tuned probably 1000's of cars. And my car wasn't lean. I've detionated before and it did not detonate. Anyhoo......doesn't matter, I'll have my car by weeks end.

 

good to hear erniet, don't listen to the haters. just your mechanic.

luigi

 

Who's hating i just had some doubts about what hurt the motor.
If he didn't want reponses he should not of posted on a public forum. besides he has nothing i wan't . i made 380 with stock twins...........2 yrs ago.
Your'e the one who needs to put down the haterade

 

 

Hey Ernie!
Normally when you crack the ceramic it's the result of running to lean! You can break a motor without audible detonation! Just ask some of the people who have cracked end plates without breaking apex seals!
What gear were you running the car in when the plug broke?
What dyno were you using?
Load plays a very important part when tuning on the dyno. If it's a Dynojet you should be using 4th gear and tuning no leaner than 11.5:1 in my opinion!
Here's another little advice. Don't mix C-14 with pump gas! That's a NO NO in my experience!. Tune with pump at the level you're you're going to be running on the street and use C-16 for the high boost tuning. C-14 was not designed for boosted or supercharged conditions. Did you have any misfiring before the plug broke?

crispeed

 

RIGHT HERE!

 

Live and learn. Story of my life...
Your saying to only tune on pump gas on boost I run on the street? Thats fine but how will I know if my A/F is ok to run at higher boost at the track without tuning for it?
Thanks,
Ernie

 

What Chris is saying is: don't physically mix the two gasses in your tank. In other words drain yor tank and then fill up with c-16 and then tune your high boost areas.

 

sorry to hear what happened...
first off you should tune with only pump gas 93 (octane) record your maps..then get back n the dyno with only C-16 in the tank and tune again and of course record your maps.

 

RDRR

 

Ernie-

Your engine is ported right? And you have a front mount i/c?

 

Yes, to both........why?