Thanks for sharing.

:-) neil

 

Hi
I just read this entire thread and just want to say, Great Info.... Thanks for sharing, this is good stuff.
wm

 

What do you mean by;"so that I can run 5W-50 Synthetic in the Crankcase"?

 

Has anybody used the Oil Metering System designed by J.H.B Performance? http://jhbperformance.com/products.php#oil_system. This is an awesome idea, and I would like to do it to my vert. Thank you very much!

 

people have been asking me about this, so here's a bump

 

Nice, Thanks for the valuable info.

 

Took a shot on my first metal blocking plate. Top piece is the screwed up one, the bottom one is the unfinished piece. The middle piece is the template I used to help with cutting the metal plate.

 

Over the years, many people have asked me about how to do this for an FD type electronic MOP.

I just finished doing it to my FD last night, and as it turns out, it is actually easier as there is more room for the oil feed fitting. I will post pics and comments in a few days when I have some time.

 

Just got this all finished up last night. FD setup was no problem.

First off here is the Electronic MOP:



Here is where our fitting will go. I did find that the rubber hose tended to swell, so I recommend using a 1/16NPT or 1/8 NPT to -3 or -4 adapter with braided stainless PTFE lined hose:




I had a nifty dry break fitting I have been looking for a home for, so in my case the hole was M10x1 with an o-ring relief, and I had to remove a bit of material from the casting to make room:



Fitting Installed , and with -3 dry break:




I wouldnt really recommend this, but I didnt want to remove the front cover, so I just made the pressure relief notch with a dremel and made sure to clean up as well as possible. I also changed the oil after the setup was finished:



Gasket made from aluminum flashing. I drilled a 9/16 hole then used a conical die grinder wheel to get it exactly the right size. Then I traced the MOP with a scribe and cut it out with aircraft snips. Then used to MOP as a guide to drill the holes.



In the process of TIG'ing up a tank:



Tank Installed:





For the most part everything about this is the same as the FC version in the first post, except the different hole location.

 

I am using a mechanical OMP on my motor, its the four nozzle one but my REW only has 2 oil injectors , anyone know if it would be ok to plug two of the nozzles without damaging the pump ?

 

It is fine, just make sure it does not block flow to the other two ports. If you look close, you will see that they are all fed from the same passage.

 

Thanks alot!

 

I was thinking of using a mechanical pump instead, seems simpler. Not sure which one to use tho. suggestions??

 

So would this principle also be the same on an FD front cover? It would be great to not to have to drill the front cover if not necessary.


And if so, Patman why did you drill the front cover on the FD after Hailers mentioned it wasn't necessary and you agreed and said you would start doing the modification his way in future?

 

Short answer: It was a long time ago, I forgot about what he said and didn't go back and read this thread, I just did it the same as the first time. I still have not bothered to look at a front cover, but I don't doubt that HAILERS is correct.
Based on that, there is no reason you need to drill the front cover on your FD.

 

I am wondering how this worked long term I have always wanted to do this and now they don't sell the adapter so I will be making this! Great write up 👍!

 

I had a rotary aviation setup and got rid of it. Why?

(a) reservoir took up too much room in the engine bay
(b) I was not confident the gravity feed would provide sufficient head pressure to ensure the same level of oil flow as would be the case when fed via the front cover, particularly as the reservoir neared empty level. This was not helped by many reports of RX8 racers who found their cars used less oil when using the RA adapter compared with stock - a big worry on the RX8 where factory oiling was insufficient (in the series 1 at least). There's of discussion on this in the rx8club forums.
(c) hassle to fill up
(d) I reached the view that the concept of 2 stroke being superior to sump oil was flawed and removed the whole premise for the reservoir setup in the first place. Oil injection likely has no impact on carbon build-up in a rotary engine. The carbon build-up is mostly due to the incomplete combustion of petrol and is much worse in engines running overly rich. This is supported by evidence of engines running on dry fuels ie LPG/propane, and oil metering systems (no pre-mix) - they exhibit ZERO carbon build-up and demonstrate excellent wear profiles on the rotor housing. The whole concept of "synthetic oils can't be used in rotary engines as they don't burn" is overly simplistic. That's a much bigger debate but well documented elsewhere, eg Response from Mobil about Mobil 1 in rotary engines - AusRotary Also, the advantages of synthetic oils over mineral oils in rotary engines are probably overstated.

 

I run an RA adapter with a gravity fed tank and find myself adding oil quite frequently (have not measured the exact rate). I do agree that assumptions of carbon buildup burning engine oil is probably overblown, as with use of synthetic oil. However, i do "believe" that running dedicated OMP oil is better than using sump oil and since "better" is a relative term, i will leave it at that with no quantitative or even qualitative basis

 

Awesome thanks for the input. I had a rx-7 running all pre mix and I have one on the omp factory. I have always thought that 2 stroke is the way to go for the simple fact that it's ashles and it sticks to metal so I believe it is a better choice for the rotorys. However I had a buddy who ran royal purple for years!! on his s5 t2 so I do agree that we over think everything on these engines.

 

Over thinking is an understatement. So many people think the oil system on the 1st gen Rx8 is junk. Well if that's the case, why are there a hand full of Series 1 owners with over 200,000 miles on the OG engine? A poorly designed oil system wouldn't allow a rotary to last that long without the compression seals erasing themselves so the mileage tells me the flow is sufficient with the two nozzels. Those 200k engines all have something in common. They're mostly freeway driven and the owners simply crank their cars up and head for the expressway (which warms up their engines really fast). I've got a nice long post on someone's YT channel about how important it is to warm up these engines as fast as possible to reduce the amounts of carbon build up. Too many people like to idle to warm up but IMO, that's a rotary death sentence because this is when the majority of carbon buildup occurs. It takes far too long for the rotors themselves to heat up because they're 9lb pieces of cast iron who's heating is slowed by the internal oil cavity. Plus you have enriched fuel being dumped in during cold start. As the carbon builds up on the rotor faces, pieces eventually break away from the face and this is what scratches the rotor housings. It has nothing to do with not having enough lube. This is purely foreign object damage that causes loss of compression over time due the rotor housing being all scratched up.