Direct Apex Seal Lubrication
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Joined: Mar 2003
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From: Cleveland, OH
Direct Apex Seal Lubrication
Hurley page:
http://www.hurleyrotary.com/hmelub.aspx
Has anybody ever had experience with this? Any opinions? Second hand info? Anything?
It seems like a very good idea, but I have some concerns.
I'm assuming centrifugal force plays a big role in how much oil is metered, but is the amount of oil metered increased at the proper rate? If its 'tuned' to inject the proper amount at 7000 rpm will it be too much or too little at idle? If it has this kind of problem then it would obviously be a race only mod, but will it be good on the street? Also, I'm assuming the control valve is there to prevent combustion pressures from forcing thier way into the center of the rotor, but will boost pressures also have a serious effect on the oil metering? There is possibly enough vacuum in the intake stroke to get enough oil in there regardless, but..... any comments?
Finally, xlnt7 on AusRotary.com posted back in April that he was using this system. If he posts here or anyone knows him, maybe we can get some firsthand feedback. I might register at AusRotary and shoot him a PM, too....
http://www.hurleyrotary.com/hmelub.aspx
Has anybody ever had experience with this? Any opinions? Second hand info? Anything?
It seems like a very good idea, but I have some concerns.
I'm assuming centrifugal force plays a big role in how much oil is metered, but is the amount of oil metered increased at the proper rate? If its 'tuned' to inject the proper amount at 7000 rpm will it be too much or too little at idle? If it has this kind of problem then it would obviously be a race only mod, but will it be good on the street? Also, I'm assuming the control valve is there to prevent combustion pressures from forcing thier way into the center of the rotor, but will boost pressures also have a serious effect on the oil metering? There is possibly enough vacuum in the intake stroke to get enough oil in there regardless, but..... any comments?Finally, xlnt7 on AusRotary.com posted back in April that he was using this system. If he posts here or anyone knows him, maybe we can get some firsthand feedback. I might register at AusRotary and shoot him a PM, too....
Special Dark
Joined: May 2001
Posts: 820
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From: oklahoma
A while back I heard that this system caused excessive oil injection leading to a lot of smoke and plug fouling. It was probably intended for drag racing. They might have improved the design recently though.
50mpg - oooooh yeah!
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 527
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From: UK
we were on about this a while ago in this section - we came with with shitloads of ideas including this one, then we found out that Hurley had beat us to it.
The valve is the same used as in the e-shaft, so you can definately expect linear, useable, oil amounts.
But I still prefer remote-resevoir setups over stock, internal, or pre-mix setups.
The cleanest option, without needing to measure stuff out EVERY time you fill up
The valve is the same used as in the e-shaft, so you can definately expect linear, useable, oil amounts.
But I still prefer remote-resevoir setups over stock, internal, or pre-mix setups.
The cleanest option, without needing to measure stuff out EVERY time you fill up
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Engine motor oil is not designed to burn. The apex seal grooves are a perfect place for carbon to build-up. The only action that prevents huge amounts of deposits is the sliding action of the apex seal - not the best system in my book. Burning engine oil is always a compromise. I still find pre-mix a superior solution.
Side story, I had my FC sitting around for TWO years. I was worried about firing the car up, so I spun the engine over by hand. The engine spun over VERY easily and smoothly; too easily to the point I was worried the seals had stuck or my seals were all gone. No, the car fired up the first time and ran fine. I give all kudos to the pre-mixing I was doing previous to having the car down so long. I have never come across a rotary that could do that with burning the engine oil internally.
-Ted
Side story, I had my FC sitting around for TWO years. I was worried about firing the car up, so I spun the engine over by hand. The engine spun over VERY easily and smoothly; too easily to the point I was worried the seals had stuck or my seals were all gone. No, the car fired up the first time and ran fine. I give all kudos to the pre-mixing I was doing previous to having the car down so long. I have never come across a rotary that could do that with burning the engine oil internally.
-Ted
???
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Joined: Mar 2003
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From: Cleveland, OH
Just got this back from xlnt7:
Oh well, anybody know of anyone else who has it? Guess we gotta wait. 
Hi CyperNinja,
To tell you the honest truth, while I have the mod done on my engine. I am still building up the car, etc and haven't had the opportunity to run it yet. I'm always away for work, so my project progress is incredibly slow. That said, I do hope to have the car running in about 3 months or so, so I may be able to let you know then. It is a total ground up re-build, with the aim being for street and mild track duties.
When I spoken to Mr Hurley about the mod, "he" said it was very successful. How much that's worth I don't know, but I have seen his seals in working engines and they perform without fault.
So I'm afraid I can't give the the run down as you had hoped.
Cheers
Robin
xlnt@autospeed.com
To tell you the honest truth, while I have the mod done on my engine. I am still building up the car, etc and haven't had the opportunity to run it yet. I'm always away for work, so my project progress is incredibly slow. That said, I do hope to have the car running in about 3 months or so, so I may be able to let you know then. It is a total ground up re-build, with the aim being for street and mild track duties.
When I spoken to Mr Hurley about the mod, "he" said it was very successful. How much that's worth I don't know, but I have seen his seals in working engines and they perform without fault.
So I'm afraid I can't give the the run down as you had hoped.
Cheers
Robin
xlnt@autospeed.com
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