Copper exhaust gaskets
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02-18-04, 12:30 PM
#54
woowoo!!!!
I got my gaskets installed. They are very nice..... and sealed up my exhaust perfectly.
Great Job Scrap!!!
As soon, as I get up the courage to pull my turbo kit apart, I will send you the rest of the gaskets that I need done.
Thanks Again.
I got my gaskets installed. They are very nice..... and sealed up my exhaust perfectly.
Great Job Scrap!!!
As soon, as I get up the courage to pull my turbo kit apart, I will send you the rest of the gaskets that I need done.
Thanks Again.
02-19-04, 06:47 PM
#55
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I'm glad they worked out well. I got my drill press working this week (Cutting down on my production time), so I can now make any of the 2-bolt, single-hole exhaust gaskets for $12 + shipping. I'm waiting for a tax return check so I can buy a press and get that down to $10.
I've heard that the 3" flanges we use for turbo downpipes and catbacks are universal. Does anyone know if they're the same for domestic aftermarket as well aas import systems? I'm curious if the market is broad enough to go into high-volume production. (Big $$$ to get started, but I can sell them in bulk for even less and make good money)
I've heard that the 3" flanges we use for turbo downpipes and catbacks are universal. Does anyone know if they're the same for domestic aftermarket as well aas import systems? I'm curious if the market is broad enough to go into high-volume production. (Big $$$ to get started, but I can sell them in bulk for even less and make good money)
02-20-04, 06:41 PM
#57
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Wow, that really sucks. I feel for you. Don't worry about the order, I won't hold you to it.
Does anyone else have a use for a 12A header flange and matching 1/8" copper gasket?
Does anyone else have a use for a 12A header flange and matching 1/8" copper gasket?
06-22-04, 11:28 AM
#59
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time to revive the thread... i got one of these copper gaskets and it wont seal! is there a trick to it? i'm about to pull it off and JB Weld it... the leak is stopping my 5/6 ports from opening. whats the magic trick to making copper seal?! help :-(
06-22-04, 12:00 PM
#60
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Woh! Don't JB weld it! 
I know this ain't my thread but let me throw out an idea or two. If you know the mating surfaces are good and the gasket does not appear to be messed up the only reason I can think that the gasket would not seal is that you either are not tightening it enough, which I doubt is the case, or the copper is hardening.
If it was me I would pull the gasket and heat it up with a propane or oxy-acet torch to anneal it. It will stay soft for a pretty good while.
They make a spray-on copper gasket sealer that we used to use on high HP V8 head gaskets before they came out with the really bad *** gaskets. I would spray a light and EVEN coat of the copper spray on each side of the gasket and install it after it tacks up a bit.
The copper spray is great stuff and this does not take away from the copper gaskets. We used the stuff on copper head gaskets that cost more than these here are selling for. It is a great precautionary measure even if you think you won't need it.
A trick that works well with both the copper spray as well as spray paint is to get a large bowl of hot water (as hot as it comes out of the faucet, not boiling) and put the can in for about 5 minutes. Then shake it up real well and it will spray very nicely.
I still plan on getting some of these gaskets but I already planned on prepping them anyways.
I know this ain't my thread but let me throw out an idea or two. If you know the mating surfaces are good and the gasket does not appear to be messed up the only reason I can think that the gasket would not seal is that you either are not tightening it enough, which I doubt is the case, or the copper is hardening. If it was me I would pull the gasket and heat it up with a propane or oxy-acet torch to anneal it. It will stay soft for a pretty good while.
They make a spray-on copper gasket sealer that we used to use on high HP V8 head gaskets before they came out with the really bad *** gaskets. I would spray a light and EVEN coat of the copper spray on each side of the gasket and install it after it tacks up a bit.
The copper spray is great stuff and this does not take away from the copper gaskets. We used the stuff on copper head gaskets that cost more than these here are selling for. It is a great precautionary measure even if you think you won't need it.
A trick that works well with both the copper spray as well as spray paint is to get a large bowl of hot water (as hot as it comes out of the faucet, not boiling) and put the can in for about 5 minutes. Then shake it up real well and it will spray very nicely.
I still plan on getting some of these gaskets but I already planned on prepping them anyways.
06-22-04, 12:25 PM
#61
I have been using one of ScrapFC's copper gaskets for my turbo to downpipe connection- since it has been bored out to a size that doesn't work w/ stock SS gasket.
This copper gasket is sealing GREAT!
I had to remove my downpipe once already and the gasket was stuck to the parts w/ a perfect ring of discoloration on both sides where the heat had expanded the gasket into the texture of the flanges.
Ian
You must make sure that the flanges and the gasket are flat. No gasket will be able to seal on warped flanges.
This copper gasket is sealing GREAT!
I had to remove my downpipe once already and the gasket was stuck to the parts w/ a perfect ring of discoloration on both sides where the heat had expanded the gasket into the texture of the flanges.
Ian
You must make sure that the flanges and the gasket are flat. No gasket will be able to seal on warped flanges.
06-22-04, 05:06 PM
#62
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Thanks for the feedback guys! I haven't been doing much of this lately...
If it's leaking badly, the flanges are the most likely culprit. The copper gaskets are pretty much impossible to burn or blow out, (Send me one of mine that's been blown or melted along with an explanation of how it went and I'll give you a new one!) but they can't compensate for much warpage. It's also possible the gaskets were bent during shipping. I've been working them with a small body hammer on a flat surface to get them true. (It really doesn't take much force) You just have to re-anneal every time you work it for the best seal.
To re-anneal the copper, work it over with the torch until it just starts to glow and then quench it in water.
Sorry that I haven't been able to warn everyone of every possible issue. I'm new to this, and they worked perfectly the first time I put a set into my car.
If it's leaking badly, the flanges are the most likely culprit. The copper gaskets are pretty much impossible to burn or blow out, (Send me one of mine that's been blown or melted along with an explanation of how it went and I'll give you a new one!) but they can't compensate for much warpage. It's also possible the gaskets were bent during shipping. I've been working them with a small body hammer on a flat surface to get them true. (It really doesn't take much force) You just have to re-anneal every time you work it for the best seal.
To re-anneal the copper, work it over with the torch until it just starts to glow and then quench it in water.
Sorry that I haven't been able to warn everyone of every possible issue. I'm new to this, and they worked perfectly the first time I put a set into my car.
06-24-04, 08:06 AM
#64
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You can get one of these for less than $20 at most hardware stores. That is less than what most shops would charge you to mess with it.
From what I have read the amount of time ranges from a day to a couple of weeks depending on the temperature it is subjected to after it is annealed that it will remain in an annealed state.
From what I have read the amount of time ranges from a day to a couple of weeks depending on the temperature it is subjected to after it is annealed that it will remain in an annealed state.
Last edited by Scalliwag; 06-24-04 at 08:10 AM.
06-24-04, 12:46 PM
#66
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Any cheapie propane torch will do the job just fine in less than 5 minutes. Copper soaks in heat very readily. I've seen simple torch kits for less than $10. Mine has a built-in igniter and cost me $15 12 years ago. It still works great!
As for the duration of the annealing, I have 1/8" scrap copper pieces in my garage that I annealed months ago and I can still bend them easily by hand. I'm pretty sure the gaskets will work harden due to the clamping force of the exhaust flange, so if they're removed they should either be replaced in the same orientation they were in or reannealed.
As for the duration of the annealing, I have 1/8" scrap copper pieces in my garage that I annealed months ago and I can still bend them easily by hand. I'm pretty sure the gaskets will work harden due to the clamping force of the exhaust flange, so if they're removed they should either be replaced in the same orientation they were in or reannealed.
06-24-04, 01:12 PM
#67
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Originally posted by Josh18_2k
so uh, what else will i need to do this? a metalpan with water i presume, what should i put the gasket on? the ground? i dont really have a good workplace... flip it over with a spatula? throw me some ideas here.
so uh, what else will i need to do this? a metalpan with water i presume, what should i put the gasket on? the ground? i dont really have a good workplace... flip it over with a spatula? throw me some ideas here.
) to hang a heavy wire or cloths hanger from with the gasket hanging on it. Heat it up like Scrap said throw it into a pail of water using some pliers or whatever you can find. Or these torches will stand upright and you could hold the gasket above the flame with some BBQ tongs and pitch it into a pail when ready.
Plus those torches come in real handy for lots of stuff. So if you do any mechanical work at all it will come in useful later. Like getting the front bolt off of an e-shaft
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