turbostreetfighter

anybody out there interested in CNC porting? since the machinist industry is WAAAY down right now i have access to a few CNC mills and programs! i have been fiddling with it for a while now but did not have the machine time open to actually machine some plates. this will be for 13brew engines only for now. i am only going to do a street port and secondary bridge port designs. what this will do is give PRECISE timing and EXACT pocket volumes. it will not be cheap but for those looking for that extra edge it is the ticket. those of you who port know how bad the factory castings are and no matter how good any of you are you cannot beat the precision of a machine that will hold .00025 tolerances!! i am going to do this anyway but if there is enough interest i can set up fixtures that will allow me to machine the plates quicker than normal ( i dont have to pay for machine time so i am only doing them one off for now). post your opinions on the list but if you are seriously interested email me at wwm!@wt.net i do not know pricing as of yet, it depends on how many i can run at a time.


MWW

rxtasy3

iTrader: (2)

What controls r u writing programs for? The mills I use where I work have Fanuc and Mazak controls using EAI logic.

Scalliwag

This sounds pretty cool! Post pics pls!

turbostreetfighter

i use virtual Gibbs for programming, the Mazak has mazatrol (which i am certified) and the johnford VM 4020's use fanuc om controls pretty much what you are used to. are you a mill man or a lathman? i personally dont like lathes especially our 1400 IPM mazak! it is downright scary when you are setting up and running the first few parts on 100 percent!!

rxtasy3

iTrader: (2)

I do both but prefer the lathe. It only uses the Mazatrol programming, can't remember the model right now. The mill is VTC300, I think, it willl run both the Mazatrol and EAI programs. I don't run at 100% when running the first few pieces after a setup. The rapid rate on the Mazaks will go down to 5%. I was told while training to do setups, to slow things down cause when these things crash, they crash hard. The mills r Robodrill, 4 of then, with the Fanuc controls, and only one Mazak mill. I don't actually write the programs, we have someone using CAD for that, but I know enough to alter them as needed and can write some of the basic drill programs. We also have 2 Lagunamatics that r pretty easy, which I started out doing setups. But all programs r on a comp that we have there that has them stored on hard drive which has a program that's used to send to the macine. The Mazak's, as u know, have there own hard drive where THERE programs r stored.

SPOautos

Why dont you make some of those exhaust inserts. I'm sure people will be interested in those!!! Especially if you can do them pretty reasonable with no CNC charges

STEPHEN

turbostreetfighter

mainly because i dont personally need them and would rather spend time making my race car faster!!! but if you get enough people together that want to buy them i can make a run, but it needs to be at least 10 sets and they will be made of 7000 series aluminum instead of steel ( as you are porting , you will thank me for that!!)


MWW

Scalliwag

You guys are the probably the best in the forum to answer this question. I need to turn a 2" ID pipe on my small lathe. I think the tailstock has a #1 morse taper.
What would be the best way to support and center the pipe at the tail stock end?

Maxthe7man

TRBSTFTR:---> How much we talking for cnc porting? and can you lap the side plates as well? ..Max

rxtasy3

iTrader: (2)

Do u have the tail stock with the bearing in it and pointed at the end? If so, get something that's has an OD alittle bigger than the 2", like 2.25 or 2.5. put it in the chuck and put a .25 hole in the center. Then taper the OD down to bout 1.5. Hope this pic I drew gives u the idea.

Scalliwag

My tailstock has the cheapass dead center But I need to buy a live center anyways. Thanks for the advice I will give it a shot.

turbostreetfighter

max i am not sure on pricing yet but i can tell you that it will not be cheap!! i have my housings Blanchard ground at a place outside houston, it is far away so i try to do as many as i can at the same time. only problem is that you have to take all of the dowel pins out yourself.


MWW

yallgotboost

If u have a dead center go out and buy a live bull center. Bull center has a real big head on it that would be your best bet. Might be a little pricey look in MSC, or go in the yellow pages and look for machine shop supplys. We use bull canters alot at my work. All they are is a big live center. One that big may be a little hard to find for a #1 taper thats a little guy

nimrodTT

How much are you paying for the grinding? I found a guy a couple years ago that has a big enough lapping table just South of Houston. He's done housings before for some people in town. I think the guy wanted either $100 or $150 to do all four surfaces. Problem is, that guy doesn't work there anymore, but I could look into it if you're interested.

Scalliwag

I was wrong, it's a number 2. Harbor Freight sells the bullnose in a #2 for $20 but only online.

turbostreetfighter

How much are you paying for the grinding? I found a guy a couple years ago that has a big enough lapping table just South of Houston. He's done housings before for some people in town. I think the guy wanted either $100 or $150 to do all four surfaces. Problem is, that guy doesn't work there anymore, but I could look into it if you're interested.


this place charges me from 150-200 depending on how many i bring at a time and they are done a Blanchard machine which is superior over any othe surface grindiers!!


MWW

rotorbrain

why cant there be anything like that out here in TN? nobody wants to touch my plates!!!!

paul

Scalliwag

Are you checking with general OR automotive machine shops. Other that turning eccentrics shafts there is usually not much equipment in an automotive machine shop to help us wankel folks out.
I would find it hard to believe that in Tennessee there is not a general machine shop with a big enough lapping machine that is willing to do this. After all it is a flat surface and there is plenty of other machinery that require lapping, even in Tennessee!

Scalliwag

I have a good method for getting out the alignment dowels without boogering the edges for the front cover using a 7/16"-14 tap. (see pics) But the pin for the stationary gear is a bitch.
I use vise grips and I really hate doing it that way.
What method do you use?

nimrodTT

I think he means the big dowels, but I guess it depends on how they are securing the part. I've never had any need to take those front cover ones out, or the stationary gear pin.

Scalliwag

I am sure he is talking about these dowels. They need to come out if you are putting the part on a surface grinder or lapping table.
Since the surface is parallel to the surface being lapped it is just layed flat. Most surface grinders have a magnetic base. I am not sure what they use on lapping machines though.
The big dowels have to come out but that is just part of the engine breakdown.
But for lapping or surface grinding would be the only reason to ever need to pull them.

turbostreetfighter

the blanchard's use magnets to hole the parts down which is why all of the pins have to come out. the one for the stationary gear is a bitch!!! but it only had to be taken down a little bit so i usually just grind that one down but end up screwing up the dowels. that tap is a good idea, i will have to try that one.


MWW

Scalliwag

The nice part about the tap is that it goes in really easy because the hole is a little oversized for it. You just throw down a little WD40 and do it just like in the picture. It takes about 5 minutes at the most to pull them all.
I should have thought about grinding that stationary pin down. I tried to over-complicate that I guess
You are right though because you can leave about 1/4" or so of the pin and be below the surface that needs to rest on the table. Since all that pin does is locate the gear that is great idea! It will sure save a lot of headache and time.

Marcel Burkett

I also have been thinking about another type of milling, Has anyone tried to mill a groove into the housing and a matching one into the plates to use a solid wire type material in between the plates and housings for sealing ? , sort of like how they use the copper O rings between a piston engines head and block deck to hold very high compression.

Scalliwag

I've never made a tracing to compare, but the '85 and earlier 13b have the grooves on the rotor housings. I have not heard if they match up with the grooves on the '86 and later side plates. If that was the case you would not have to machine grooves to test your theory.
If you used a heavy gauged copper wire and made a special grind on the ends where they met it should work.
You would need to make some type of modification to the ends so that when the assembly was torqued that they would compress together in a way that would almost fuse them.