I came up with this plan today and was wondering what you gurus think.
I have a 94 FD, heater core is deleted and I am using a Davies Craig Electric Water Pump (EWP), the thermostat and housing are deleted in favor of the E&J water pump manifold. Throttle body bypass is also done.
So essentially, it evolves around using the old heater core outlet from the rear iron as the new inlet from the water pump and radiator - cold water enters the block here.
The water then goes both ways towards the front- through the rear iron like it always did, and forward through the drivers side (against what it was from factory).
The outlet for the throttle body feed becomes the coolant feed for the turbo(s)
The front iron now has two outlets for the now hot coolant, which Y together and feed the radiator (along with the hot from the turbo(s))
Cold water exits the radiator to the EWP, and then pushed to the rear iron, repeat.
I attached a rough sketch of what the flow would look like.

In my head this looks like it can work and possibly help run cooler, since both sides are getting "cold water", rather than the constantly hotter loop from the factory. Thoughts?

 

I dont see how this would perform any different than stock.... regardless of what order the coolant heats up, it's still going to heat up in the same manner. The cooling design with rob dahms 4 rotor makes sense considering the application but with a 2 rotor, I dont think there is a more "efficient" cool to path. The motor is just tiny.

 

Stock runs the water cooled by the radiator through the hot side of the engine first and then to balance temps sends the heated water through the cold side of the engine and out.

I would stick to this stock routing.

Trying to flow both the hot and cold side of the engine from the rear with cooled water from the radiator will mean there is more housing distortion between the hot side and cool side of engine and so you will have more wear.

 

The stock cooling path is extremely well engineered. The hottest part of the engine gets coolant first, then the coolant circulates past the cold part of the engine to stabilize temperature. Not like 99% of piston engines where the hottest part gets coolant last. The only thing really worth doing would be to increase the flow at the spark plugs, and/or increase block pressure to prevent localized boiling at the plugs.

 

I see now, the passenger side is essentially "too cold" so it uses the heated coolant to balance it and even out the temp variance throughout. makes sense.
Thanks fellas!