scalli.. what happened to vintagerotaries.com?

 

Thought I'd throw some info in on this thread and breathe some life into it. Thanks to Scalliwag for giving us all this great info and inspiring me to give producing a set of housings a try.

The big concern for myself was finding the right material for the insert. I didn't want to pay to have the right insert machined from a billet and happening upon something that is just the right size when you're not familiar with what is available can be hard. Luckily, as is usual, McMaster-Carr to the rescue. Below is a little of what I have found on their site. Taking advice from one of the guys that already posted in this thread I looked for "aluminum pipe" and found several combinations of sizes and schedules to give different port sizes. The pipe is available in several lengths. I'll give part numbers for the 12" pieces. That is as short as you can buy but longer pieces are available. The unthreaded aluminum pipe is essentially aluminum tubing is standard pipe sizes.


5038K251
1 1/2" Pipe Schedule 40
OD - 1.900"
ID - 1.610"
Wall - 1.45"

5038K322
2" Pipe Schedule 40
OD - 2.375"
ID - 2.067"
Wall - .154"

4559T511
1 1/2" Pipe Schedule 80
OD - 1.900"
ID - 1.500"
Wall - .200"

4559T611
2" Pipe Scheule 80
OD - 2.375"
ID - 1.939"
Wall - .218"

 

is there chatter problems with these housings?

 

Just finished up a pair. These use the 2" schedule 80 pipe. ID is 49.25 mm. I went with an angled entry to provide more clearance for the turbo assembly. Yeah, it's going to be turboed. We knocked the hole out with a Bridgeport mill. Turned about .040" off the OD of the tubing to reference it and to close up the amount of bare aluminum that would be around the edge of the port. They were turned to provide a .002" press fit. I froze the sleeves in the freezer for about an hour and they went in with slight encouragement from a hammer and block of wood. The sleeves were then TIG welded around the outside perimeter. Took about 30 minutes per housing to finish the insert to the rotor housing by hand.

All-in-all if the machinery is available or you can find any competent machine shop it's not a hard project at all to produce these housings. The acid test will be to see if we can make it run worth a damn.

 

NICE NICE KEEP US UPDATED ON THOSE HOUSINGS!!!b

 

C. Ludwig ,
Awesome job, seems like more people are doing the PP turbo thing nowadays, including me in the near future. What size turbo are you gonna run? My choice will depend on my budget :-(

Hey eatmyclutch, just noticed your signature-thing, I'm gonna be working in Dominguez Hills (wilmington/91freeway) in the near future!

Owen

 

We're using a 102mm GT42R. Not sure what we're even looking for as far as power. It's just something we're throwing together because we can. We'll see what happens.

 

Thanks,
I think that one dude in Australia was using a 35R. I am near broke so am contemplating a Master Power T70. Mine isn't a race car or anything so we'll see what happens.
Owen

 

Does anyone know what happened to Scalliwag? i havn't seen him posting since before vintage rotaries shut down

 

Dunno. I had PMed him months ago to see if he would make my housings for me. Never heard back from him.

 

No one has any info on what happed to him. You might check the SW forum, maybe some of them know.

 

has anyone come up with a decent intake plans for these housings i'm gonna try my hand at them sounds like fun

 

where did you guys buy a hole saw that will go deep enough. it has to cut almost 3" deep and the ones im fining in ACE and sears dont cut that deep.

on 2nd thought upon look at those pictures it seems that a normal depth one was used... o well ill figure it out... but in any case any other suggestions? i might just pick up a boring head and bar for my mill...

 

I cut through the outer casting first, removed the scrap from the saw and continued on with the inner casting. its deadsimple

 

cool, so does any one know if i HAVE to use a carbide tipped hole saw or will a bi metal cut it?
(no pun intended)

 

From my practices ones, bimetal hole saws will do it just fine. Though they might be pretty well worn out after a couple housings.

 

thanks much!

 

I rearranged my website, pics are down.
They are hosted here instead.
http://www.nopistons.com/forums/inde...howtopic=57303

 

ummmm DRO.... that would make producing multiple housings so much easier...
nice mill i got the same one

 

I'm going to simplify my intake design, my existing intake is available. Just add a 2-1/4" v-band clamp and flange and mine clamps right on.

I'm also keeping the injectors you can see in the picture, there are 4 injectors in the throttle body of approx. 550cc, but you'll need some to fill the holes in the runners.

 

i build peri port engines for my team in the caribbean....when we do our own housings all i use is a 2 inch hole saw and a jig on a drill mill.....that works great for us....then i insert a thick aluminum tube which i then port out to a venturi port.

 

I did my first PP housing today. Using a 2 inch hole saw, and drill press. I need to make a stand to hold the housing, it wasnt easy holding it still. Seemed to do fine, I think when the time comes, Ill have a machine shop do the actual hole. I noticed on a r26b diagram, the hole is at a slight angle. I also noticed it cut through one of the dowel holes, anyone have any info on this?

 

The R26B housings are very custom made

In the intake area, one TENSION BOLT less is sacrificable in the name of racing, I never hit ant tensionbolt holes when i did mine (6port motor)

 

I feel like dumping my single turbo setup in favour of a 13BREW NA PP setup. I've always preferred NAs...

Any clue if this is livable on a daily basis? Loud, brappy, high idling, horrible emissions and mileage type deal?

 

I know the r26b housings are specially made. But I figure a hole is a hole, and I wasnt sure with that angle what the port timing they had figured it to be