Try to get in contact with(i can get you the numbers if you want me 2),Loquito killer,Mikey Performance,Raul RG,Siguel Torres,Kape Performance,they sell 13B engines ready to go and this are full race motors.

 

Try Gaby Diaz 939-969-0106 you will have to keep calling till he answers (really busy building, tuning etc)
Tell him Sven sent you.

 

No such thing as a reliable 700HP rotary.

 

doesn't seem like anyone will drop info on building a higher hp engine.

so far i've "you'll never do it" or "it wont last".. i dont care how long it lasts, the longer the better. seems like this forum is loaded with people who parrot information and/or guys who love to keep secrets.

the next time one of the rotary-gods asks me some stupid question about their PC.. i'll just start responding with "you cant do it, it wont last".

lets horde all the info and never share it - screw helping other people out.

 

lol, well since I'm not a rotary expert I told you what I know and not what I hear. Detonate it going down the track once and you'll be sweeping apex seals off the track, lol.

But me personally if I where building a rotary engine and wanted it to hold up the best it can at 700 hp I would want to use a guru e-shaft with the center bearing.

 

yeah thanks for the insider tip there.. you've helped all of us understand the internal mods on high hp cars. thanks chap - way to stay on the topic.

 

hwnd, perhaps you should drop the sarcasm and actually spend more time researching the rotary engine.

Kyrasis6 may be no rotary expert as he purports, but he is not ignorant and HAS given you an insider tip.

Check out the thread on the CCM scan of a stat gear bearing that he did-

https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.php?t=612995&highlight=bearing+scan

THIS shows the abnormal wear that occurs on even a low power rotaries bearings due to poor engine design. With 2 bearings at the ends of the e-shaft there is a real problem with e-shaft flex.

Would you build a 3 main 700hp V-8? Well, Mazda hasn't evolved the rotary engine past the 3 main V-8 stage because there hasn't been funding or the need to do so in order to beat the piston engines badly enough to be banned and regulated out of most racing.

So, to try to build a reliable 700hp 2 rotor you should START with the basics of tension bolt stud kit to strengthen the stack, 2 piece e-shaft to lower the shaft flex, ceramic apex seals to lower friction, dry sump to keep cool the oil and maintain supply and 7.5:1 13G rotors and 116 octane leaded fuel or methanol.

 

Yeah, that's kinda what I meant to say before the TS got mad at me.

 

now we're getting somewhere!

 

No need to run 7.5 compression on methanol. Especially if intercooled.

-S-

 

I should probably give an update on that as my boss at the team I worked for when I did those told me to get them the f&^k off the net since it violated the confidentiality clause in my contract regarding equipment. I'll have to black out more of the information and re-upload them.

 

It was an interesting post - i was wondering when you'd update that

 

Hey I have faith in it being reliable I just do not have the know how to help you. sorry I do remeber when Abel started he said that he could get more runs in a rotary then pistons. So I hope that helps, ohhh and I think the 240 volvo would be awsome.

 

Yes it is if you consider larger displacement versions (20b or 4 rotor). IMHO 13b is way to over stressed at this level. The displacement to handle that kind of power over the long haul is too small.

 

I agree and I don't mean any disrespect to the 13B but anything over 400hp can't be trusted like it would from a larger displacement engine (ie: LS1).

 

I completely agree myself. Hell this is one of the major reasons the rotary has such a bad reputation. There's only so much reliable power you can safely extract from 2.6L.


And please lets not start a war about the displacement. The 13b breaths like a 2.6L end of storey.

 

There is not a more reliable factory buily japanese powerehouse suited for drag racing than the 2jz

 

now where is that photochop picture of a supra with 2 JZ's and Naz under the hood? lol, anyone know what I'm taking about?

 

found it:


2jz with naz swap

 

I beg to differ RB's can and are just the same. The 2J's that make the power people think are so amazing are far from stock. Pound for pound the RB's are as good or better in some cases.

As far as reliable 700hp rotary that would depend on the definition of reliable. ie context. There are 2rotors putting out far more than that and getting 50+ passes at the track. For that power level and that type of use that's pretty reliable. Will it be reliable on a street car? Not likely. Can you make 700hp and still make it streetable? Sure, just do what others do, make your 700+ run on the dyno and then drive around with lower boost on the street. A properly clearanced motor that is well maintained and setup, will be at least as reliable as the run of the mill 400hp ones that are half assed and beat on.

-S-

 

I agree about the rb thing for the most part. However I've seen quite a few 6 to 700 hp stock block supra's. A well setup supra can run 10 flat to 9.90's on 650hp.

 

Heres one for you back in 90 there were a few VG30's with stock blocks making 900hp not many people hear about that. BLitz was one I believe but I could be wrong. Yet all you here about is how you cant really make power with VG's Rb's will make the same power (600-700) on a stock block, you need to mod a few things as far as oil system and such but overall they are on par with 2J's for hp per liter. The 2J's here locally that I know have cement filled blocks to handle the power they run.

-S-

 

you couldn't have meant that literally....did you?

 

Cement filling the water passages in high hp piston engines is common in drag racing if a race designed block isn't available or they're pushing the block they have past it's design limits.

It's like the piston version of doweling a block.

 

So its like an extreme block guard? I say extreme because you can't run for very long if you have no coolant flow...right? A cement filled motor would be strictly for short bursts of drag?