Bomb Proof Rotary????
#29
watashi no shichi
iTrader: (4)
doesn't seem like anyone will drop info on building a higher hp engine.
so far i've "you'll never do it" or "it wont last".. i dont care how long it lasts, the longer the better. seems like this forum is loaded with people who parrot information and/or guys who love to keep secrets.
the next time one of the rotary-gods asks me some stupid question about their PC.. i'll just start responding with "you cant do it, it wont last".
lets horde all the info and never share it - screw helping other people out.
so far i've "you'll never do it" or "it wont last".. i dont care how long it lasts, the longer the better. seems like this forum is loaded with people who parrot information and/or guys who love to keep secrets.
the next time one of the rotary-gods asks me some stupid question about their PC.. i'll just start responding with "you cant do it, it wont last".
lets horde all the info and never share it - screw helping other people out.
#30
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lol, well since I'm not a rotary expert I told you what I know and not what I hear. Detonate it going down the track once and you'll be sweeping apex seals off the track, lol.
But me personally if I where building a rotary engine and wanted it to hold up the best it can at 700 hp I would want to use a guru e-shaft with the center bearing.
But me personally if I where building a rotary engine and wanted it to hold up the best it can at 700 hp I would want to use a guru e-shaft with the center bearing.
Last edited by Kyrasis6; 10-11-07 at 08:20 PM.
#32
Rotary Motoring
iTrader: (9)
hwnd, perhaps you should drop the sarcasm and actually spend more time researching the rotary engine.
Kyrasis6 may be no rotary expert as he purports, but he is not ignorant and HAS given you an insider tip.
Check out the thread on the CCM scan of a stat gear bearing that he did-
https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.php?t=612995&highlight=bearing+scan
THIS shows the abnormal wear that occurs on even a low power rotaries bearings due to poor engine design. With 2 bearings at the ends of the e-shaft there is a real problem with e-shaft flex.
Would you build a 3 main 700hp V-8? Well, Mazda hasn't evolved the rotary engine past the 3 main V-8 stage because there hasn't been funding or the need to do so in order to beat the piston engines badly enough to be banned and regulated out of most racing.
So, to try to build a reliable 700hp 2 rotor you should START with the basics of tension bolt stud kit to strengthen the stack, 2 piece e-shaft to lower the shaft flex, ceramic apex seals to lower friction, dry sump to keep cool the oil and maintain supply and 7.5:1 13G rotors and 116 octane leaded fuel or methanol.
Kyrasis6 may be no rotary expert as he purports, but he is not ignorant and HAS given you an insider tip.
Check out the thread on the CCM scan of a stat gear bearing that he did-
https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.php?t=612995&highlight=bearing+scan
THIS shows the abnormal wear that occurs on even a low power rotaries bearings due to poor engine design. With 2 bearings at the ends of the e-shaft there is a real problem with e-shaft flex.
Would you build a 3 main 700hp V-8? Well, Mazda hasn't evolved the rotary engine past the 3 main V-8 stage because there hasn't been funding or the need to do so in order to beat the piston engines badly enough to be banned and regulated out of most racing.
So, to try to build a reliable 700hp 2 rotor you should START with the basics of tension bolt stud kit to strengthen the stack, 2 piece e-shaft to lower the shaft flex, ceramic apex seals to lower friction, dry sump to keep cool the oil and maintain supply and 7.5:1 13G rotors and 116 octane leaded fuel or methanol.
#34
watashi no shichi
iTrader: (4)
So, to try to build a reliable 700hp 2 rotor you should START with the basics of tension bolt stud kit to strengthen the stack, 2 piece e-shaft to lower the shaft flex, ceramic apex seals to lower friction, dry sump to keep cool the oil and maintain supply and 7.5:1 13G rotors and 116 octane leaded fuel or methanol.
#36
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hwnd, perhaps you should drop the sarcasm and actually spend more time researching the rotary engine.
Kyrasis6 may be no rotary expert as he purports, but he is not ignorant and HAS given you an insider tip.
Check out the thread on the CCM scan of a stat gear bearing that he did-
https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...t=bearing+scan
Kyrasis6 may be no rotary expert as he purports, but he is not ignorant and HAS given you an insider tip.
Check out the thread on the CCM scan of a stat gear bearing that he did-
https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...t=bearing+scan
#38
Hey I have faith in it being reliable I just do not have the know how to help you. sorry I do remeber when Abel started he said that he could get more runs in a rotary then pistons. So I hope that helps, ohhh and I think the 240 volvo would be awsome.
#41
Rotor Head Extreme
iTrader: (8)
I completely agree myself. Hell this is one of the major reasons the rotary has such a bad reputation. There's only so much reliable power you can safely extract from 2.6L.
And please lets not start a war about the displacement. The 13b breaths like a 2.6L end of storey.
#45
Just in time to die
iTrader: (1)
I beg to differ RB's can and are just the same. The 2J's that make the power people think are so amazing are far from stock. Pound for pound the RB's are as good or better in some cases.
As far as reliable 700hp rotary that would depend on the definition of reliable. ie context. There are 2rotors putting out far more than that and getting 50+ passes at the track. For that power level and that type of use that's pretty reliable. Will it be reliable on a street car? Not likely. Can you make 700hp and still make it streetable? Sure, just do what others do, make your 700+ run on the dyno and then drive around with lower boost on the street. A properly clearanced motor that is well maintained and setup, will be at least as reliable as the run of the mill 400hp ones that are half assed and beat on.
-S-
#47
Just in time to die
iTrader: (1)
Heres one for you back in 90 there were a few VG30's with stock blocks making 900hp not many people hear about that. BLitz was one I believe but I could be wrong. Yet all you here about is how you cant really make power with VG's Rb's will make the same power (600-700) on a stock block, you need to mod a few things as far as oil system and such but overall they are on par with 2J's for hp per liter. The 2J's here locally that I know have cement filled blocks to handle the power they run.
-S-
-S-
#49
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Cement filling the water passages in high hp piston engines is common in drag racing if a race designed block isn't available or they're pushing the block they have past it's design limits.
It's like the piston version of doweling a block.
It's like the piston version of doweling a block.