userjh5174

Does anyone recommend the use of 2-stroke oil, in the fuel tank?

cabmakr33

That depends on what's done to your car. I have a full bridge and run it in mine.

JDK

iTrader: (8)

If you’re running the stock OMP and just driving the car on the street premixing is not necessary but can be done with no harm to the engine, running the car hard like track days/ dyno tuning I would premix 4oz’s of oil to a tank of fuel.
If you have no OMP, I would use 10 to 12oz’s of 2-stroke oil per tank for the street and 16 oz’s per tank for track/dyno use.
This is what I have used with success over the years; others may have different opinions.

userjh5174

I run stock on the engine set up, just air filters, exhaust and aluminum rad. Just want to provide extra protectection to those apex seals.

RacerXtreme7

iTrader: (2)

All you'll do is foul your plugs and carbon up the rotor faces unless your car is modded.

userjh5174

Thank you for your reply, men.

n0ferz

iTrader: (4)

So, if you premix with on a stock motor with a working omp, you will get in the end foul plugs and carbon on the rotors ?

RacerXtreme7

iTrader: (2)

In my experiences YES, and I had a modded fire breathing N/A. I ran rather expensive synthetic two stroke oil in the tank (Klotz race oil) and a working factory OMP running Castrol in the oil pan. I only added 3~4 ounces per fill up. I found carbon built up on the plugs frequently which caused detonation (good thing N/A's are tolerant of this, but turbos ARE NOT!) and upon looking into the exhaust port the rotor faces carboned up. So I stopped adding premixed and lived with the OMP and the problem went away. I eventually cleaned the engine out and rotor faces by heating the engine up and letting it siphon some water into a vac line and essentially steam clean the engine from the inside. Rotor faces looked great. I then ditched the OMP and went straight premix and had no problems either. My new engine however (now big turbo) I will use a mechanical OMP and block it off from the oil pan oil and it will have its own reservoir of 2 stroke synthetic along with running synthetic in the oil pan.

~Mike............

n0ferz

iTrader: (4)

I see, well I will premix just to be on the safe side while I have my omp working as well.

I will just use a couple of ounces less per tank and not every time I fill up the tank.

RacerXtreme7

iTrader: (2)

You should be fine, though I don't see a purpose in doing it. Just keep an eye on the plugs!

~Mike.........

n0ferz

iTrader: (4)

Will do!, thanks Mike.

Emir-

userjh5174

RacerXtreme7, thanks brother.

rob20rx7

iTrader: (1)

i have a 13bpp engine that we use for road racing. used beanol in the gas mix for a year and a half 1 ounce to the gallon. ate right through the oil control o-rings.

please note that these racing oils are awsome for thier chemical additives that help with lubrication but at the same time they contain castor oil. castor oil is not meant to be used where there are rubber o-rings that are expossed to extreme temps. that castor oil over the long term will detiriorate the o-rings causing oil blow by. The japs designed the motor to premix oil from the oil pan. so if your gona do it. minus will leave it how its meant. for street i would do about 4 oz to a 16 gallon fill up. and for race apps. i would do an ounce per gallon.

peejay

The amount of premix is kind of dependent on the engine used!

A lot of people use 1 ounce to 1 gallon of gasoline... a 1:128 ratio. This dates back to the 3mm iron seal engines which would inject about 1:400 oil:fuel at low load and ramping up to about 1:150 oil:fuel at full load. Running "rich" on oil all the time isn't necessarily hot for the plugs but it ensures that you have the proper amount of oil when you are running at heavy load.

The 2mm seal engines used less oil per fuel. The RX-8 uses less still. Every time Mazda updated the seals or the rotor housing surface, the main goal was to reduce the amount of oil necessary. So, what is good for, say, an FD, would be barely tolerable for a 12A.

Aftermarket seals need more oiling too. They aren't hardened the same way the factory ones are.

I have Atkins seals, and I premix at about 1:75. The engine seems noticably happier at this level than at 1:128. I also like to dump in a nice yummy bottle of vanilla scent.. smells like someone's smoking pipe tobacco nearby! But then I spend more on the extras when filling up, than I do on the actual *fuel*

If you have a FC or FD converted to 3mm seals, even Mazda ones, you need to add some oil to the fuel even if you have a working OMP, because the heavier seals need more lubrication. A lot of people miss out on this, and I suspect it's a big reason why so many people seem to have problems with them.

BTW - If your oil control O-rings are leaky, you don't need to premix or have oil injection much if at all, if you're just driving around...