toyosupr

i think its a gsl-se? has sun roof power windows ect.
ran a 15.1 i think at track and has a RB header and exhaust. took out some of the emmisons stuff.

whats the rwhp on this thing, i have no idea about rotory **** so sorry if i seem like i have no idea what im talkin about

stock engine 138hp? rb headers 30+hp and he says it has 200hp but where is all this power coming from. then he said that the 15.1 was a bad time and he needs to tune the car to get a lower time.

i search for n/a times and powers but couldnt find any thing, could you get let me know what hp gains you get from some n/a bolt-ons and maybe direct me to a post that has this info if there is one? thanks

chairchild

the gains that you see for headers, exhausts, and air filters, well - alone the mods mean jack-****.

I've heard someone say that a new exhaust got them an extra 5Bhp (this is for a classic mini mind you though, 36Bhp stock) yet.......if you add an air filter, new inlet and exhaust manifold, you can only gain 9Bhp.

Well, that REALLY had nothing to do with this post - just felt like whinging at people who expect mega-gains from just changing their exhaust/air filter.



Are you sure it's a GSL-SE? If it's got a big ol' carb with the air-filter sat on top, then its just a plain GSL I'm afraid - My GSL had a sunroof and power windows. And I'm also guessing that the bloke is talking out of his ****!!

Sponge Bob Square Pants

New exhausts have gotten people 58 hp increases, but this is only on certain cars, usually on a 2nd Gen Turbo that is running great but has an old exhaust with kinda cloggy cats, then replacing it all with new upgraded free flowing can make those gains.

I'm not sure about the stock HP and 1/4 Mile times.
I doubt that a new exhaust will produce the power needed to run 15.1 second 1/4 mile. A stock 2nd Gen Turbo runs about 15.1 - 15.3 and they have over 180 hp (flywheel).

Oh yeah, and you might have better success searching or browsing through the 1st Gen forum. Even though this is a performance question, 95% of the posts here apply to 86+ 13B questions.

How much was the car?
Tell us some more details about it

Evil Aviator

This formula is simple and gives a good ballpark figure. You can weigh the car at your local truck weigh station for a few dollars.

Wheel hp = Weight lbs / (ET / 5.825)^3

toyosupr

i think he paid 1200 for it.

and its not a carb.

thanks

12abridgeport

2450/(14.8/5.825)^3=149 HP

That's nice, i only had 149 horses at the wheels that got me into high 14's, with my own tuning.

riffraff

if you are running a 15.1 , then i would not imagine that you would have more than 140 to the wheels.

in my old setup i would run 15.0 all day long.. it pulled something like 138 rwhp (that was with the car weighing 2300lbs plus me)

WackyRotary

I'm kinda curious what kind of horsepower produces a 13.5-13.9second 1/4mile. I have gotten 14second-14.5second times for a turbo fitted to a streetport 12a. But my tires are street tires and don't have any traction AT ALL. Off the line my car sucks because too much wheelspin or not enough and it stumbles a little. 60ft times are what kill me the most, the tires again....

Anyway, I think since a stock 12a gets a 16-17second quarter with 101hp, I'm considerably higher with a 14.1.

prefix

Hi, I know this is off topic but I got a question. I have an 84 with a 13b. I was wondering 1) how much compression can you run on a rotary on 91 octane? and 2) where can I find a higher compression rotor for my engine?. Thanks.

Sponge Bob Square Pants

Your stock compression ratio for the 1st Gen 13B is 9.4:1

You could swap in some 1989-1991 2nd Gen NA rotors which have a 9.7:1 compression ratio.

This is the highest ratio for pre-renesis 13B rotors.

I'm not sure what the highest compression you can run on 91 octane is, but if you did get the 9.7:1 rotors, it would still be fine with that fuel.

toyosupr

cant you just mill the head or use a thinner head gasket



lol i had to. thanks for the info guys

riffraff

why waste the money on 91 octane fuel. your gsl-se will run better on 87, and i would imagine that the n/a fc's run better on lower octane as well.

only time that you really need to go to higher octaine on a rotary is with forced induction.

wackey rotary: i should hopefully be pulling about 180rwhp on my new motor; when the tracks open up next season, i will see what it can do.

chairchild

and yet again, I can proudly say that the lowest octane pump-fuel you can get here in the UK is 95 RON


But please don't say that the US stuff is "higher quality", it's watered-down with alchohol for christ sake!! It's the reason why UK fuel cost so much, the fuel tax is so damn high, they stopped shipping lower octane stuff because people were just buying the higher octane fuel for practically the same amount.

Please don't turn this into a "which fuel is better" thread - I just wanted to say that we get 95 RON as standard

Evil Aviator

After you realize that your 95 RON is not all that you think it is vs. the superior American PON standard, please also note the part about "better quality control".
http://www.btinternet.com/~madmole/R...RONMONPON.html

You are correct that the reason your fuel costs so much is because of high taxes. Welcome to socialism.

toyosupr

is it really diluted with alcohol... if so isn’t that more combustible then gasoline? i know its cleaner.

that article was good thanks for sharing.

chairchild

From what I've picked up on this site - there's LOADS of places in the US that do it, but I honestly don't know how many/where

Socialism?

It's down to that goddamn IDIOT of a prime ministor that we have that's caused everything to up in price - yet down in quality!!

chairchild

just picked this bit out of that article:

RON
95

PON
91

So it seems that next time I quote UK petrol, I should really say 91 PON (so most can easily identify)

Evil Aviator

Ethanol, MTBE, ETBE, "winter" gas, what are you talking about?

Yes, you know, that nasty little insidious political blunder behind the punitive gasoline prices.
http://www.kat.gr/kat/history/Mod/Th/Socialism.htm

That's probably a good idea since mostly Americans are on this forum. However, most of the forum members in other countries are on the RON standard. Also, there is not an exact RON to PON conversion factor unless you also know the MON. Otherwise, it is just speculation. This is the problem with the RON system. The PON system is an average of the RON and MON, which means that the petroleum companies must produce a good all-around fuel rather than gunning for high PON numbers at the expense of MON, which is actually more important for performance car applications.

toyosupr

seems like MON is usually close to 4 points less then PON and RON is 4 points higher then PON

Sponge Bob Square Pants

Maybe it's the night shift, maybe it's the coffee, but all those ONS are really making me confused

chairchild

[Quote]Ethanol, MTBE, ETBE, "winter" gas, what are you talking about?
[Quote]

The thing is - I don't even know WHAT I'm on about - I just keep reading on here how people keep saying their gas is mixed with Ethanol.

Ah well, I chuck fuel in, it burns it, and empties the tank just after I leave the filling-station

Evil Aviator

Hehehe, fair enough.

The FC is rated for up to 10% ethanol. The ethanol will reduce emissions, increase the octane rating, and it has anti-water and anti-freeze properties. Unfortunately, it also has less energy content and lower gas mileage. The gas mileage should only suffer by 2-3%, which is not even noticeable by most people. If your car is sucking gas, it is due to some other reason.

Son, if you can don only one concept of RON/MON/PON before the eon is gone you will have won by a ton, and that’s a non-con.

chairchild

What's wrong with 18Mpg?

I've got no idea what mods were done to my engine, but I'll be stripping it down soon. Cos I doubt a set of headers will be the main cause for that kinda mileage!! But then again, the carb was a bit iffy