Track Pad Recommendation
#1
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Track Brake Pad Recommendations (for car driven to and from the track)
Before I take my street driven FD to a track event I change out to my track pads at home, drive the the event (200-600 miles each way), track the car for one to three days, drive home and change back to street pads.
For the last few years I have used the Porterfield R4. and have been pretty happy. They don't fade with my current setup even under the most brutal conditions and they don't kill my rotors on the drive to and from the event (when cold).
However, I must admit I'm getting a bit annoyed with how quickly the Porterfield R4 pads wear out at the track. For example, last Tuesday I went through an entire set of pads in ONE DAY (~2.5 hours track time) at Laguna Seca (very hard on brakes). It was a two day event and I foolishly only brought my street pads (Porterfield R4S) as an emergency spare (which melted away the second day to about 1mm of pad after two 25 minute sessions even though I doubled my braking zones, cutting my day short).
Does anyone have a recommendation for a pad that:
1) Will not kill my rotors when cold during the drive to the track (like Hawk Blues, etc)
2) Will provide at least the fade resistance of the Porterfield R4
3) Will LAST LONGER than the Porterfield R4?
I'm sorry but slowing down or being nicer to my brakes is not an option
And I don't want the hassle of changing my pads at the actual event. My garage is so much more convenient. And I'm lazy.
Or am I just asking to have my cake and eat it to?
Thanks,
John
For the last few years I have used the Porterfield R4. and have been pretty happy. They don't fade with my current setup even under the most brutal conditions and they don't kill my rotors on the drive to and from the event (when cold).
However, I must admit I'm getting a bit annoyed with how quickly the Porterfield R4 pads wear out at the track. For example, last Tuesday I went through an entire set of pads in ONE DAY (~2.5 hours track time) at Laguna Seca (very hard on brakes). It was a two day event and I foolishly only brought my street pads (Porterfield R4S) as an emergency spare (which melted away the second day to about 1mm of pad after two 25 minute sessions even though I doubled my braking zones, cutting my day short).
Does anyone have a recommendation for a pad that:
1) Will not kill my rotors when cold during the drive to the track (like Hawk Blues, etc)
2) Will provide at least the fade resistance of the Porterfield R4
3) Will LAST LONGER than the Porterfield R4?
I'm sorry but slowing down or being nicer to my brakes is not an option
And I don't want the hassle of changing my pads at the actual event. My garage is so much more convenient. And I'm lazy.
Or am I just asking to have my cake and eat it to?
Thanks,
John
Last edited by John Magnuson; 12-02-05 at 10:58 PM.
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Stay away from carbotech, they are rotor friendly but last about 1/4 as long as the hawk blue and they don't have close to the same torque or feel.
Try the Cobalt spec B, i've heard alot of good things about them. I used to run their spec-VR compound on my RSX and it was amaizng. I even used it to daily drive a few times and never had any issues. Long life as well.
http://www.cobaltfriction.com/Produc...ds=3&x=27&y=14
Try the Cobalt spec B, i've heard alot of good things about them. I used to run their spec-VR compound on my RSX and it was amaizng. I even used it to daily drive a few times and never had any issues. Long life as well.
http://www.cobaltfriction.com/Produc...ds=3&x=27&y=14
#6
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Originally Posted by RussTypeS
Stay away from carbotech, they are rotor friendly but last about 1/4 as long as the hawk blue and they don't have close to the same torque or feel.
#7
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i would recomend cobalt as well......and if your goin 2 be using different compund pads i would recomend gettign new rotors..because using to different material on the same surface is not tht good....so wht i would do if i where you is get new pads for the track as well as a new set of rotors tht way you wont mess up your street rotors and they will last you a lil longer....i get rotors for like $18 each witch is pretty cheap.......just my 2c
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#9
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PFC 02s
Or go cheap and use blues. Driving 600 miles (i assume most is hwy) won't do that much damage to the rotors and you'll have to change them frequently anyway.
When I was using the stock setup I had to change pads and rotors frequently. Might be time to consider some bigger brakes
Or go cheap and use blues. Driving 600 miles (i assume most is hwy) won't do that much damage to the rotors and you'll have to change them frequently anyway.
When I was using the stock setup I had to change pads and rotors frequently. Might be time to consider some bigger brakes
#10
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He's already running a 4-wheel upgrade!
I think the short answer is, and i've found from running both a stock and upgrade setup, that there's no free lunch in brake pads. I've seen your times and threads, and my sense is that you're a very quick and aggressive. Anything that is going to be solidly streetable is going to be just a little less suitable for the track.
I've been running N-Techs "lapping day" pad... they also have a more aggressive "competition" pad. I was hoping that I could use big brakes and get away with the lappping day's because they are the best track pad i've used for the street... great initial bite when cold, good fade resistance... they'll last 2-3 events, and they are cheap. However, if you're really, really kicking ***, they will put heat in the rotors, and ultimately the fluid. They were perfect for almost a whole weekend at WGI, but when I dropped 3 seconds off my times on the last run, i started to get a long pedal. I'm going to try them with dedicated ducts at my next event (with StopTech fronts, stock rears), and if I can still boil the fluid, i'll go up to the competitions and see how that goes.
You could almost run the lapping day pads full time on the street if you had to.... you might try the competitions and see if they are livable for a drive to the track... however, I would say that you ought to invest in a couple tools, like a rear piston tool, a caliper spreader, and a rechargeable impact gun, and just make it less painful to change out to the track pads when you get there. I can usually do it in 30-45 minutes.... or try just doing the rears at home (that won't get too abused on the street), and then do the (quicker) fronts at the track.
Good luck!!
I think the short answer is, and i've found from running both a stock and upgrade setup, that there's no free lunch in brake pads. I've seen your times and threads, and my sense is that you're a very quick and aggressive. Anything that is going to be solidly streetable is going to be just a little less suitable for the track.
I've been running N-Techs "lapping day" pad... they also have a more aggressive "competition" pad. I was hoping that I could use big brakes and get away with the lappping day's because they are the best track pad i've used for the street... great initial bite when cold, good fade resistance... they'll last 2-3 events, and they are cheap. However, if you're really, really kicking ***, they will put heat in the rotors, and ultimately the fluid. They were perfect for almost a whole weekend at WGI, but when I dropped 3 seconds off my times on the last run, i started to get a long pedal. I'm going to try them with dedicated ducts at my next event (with StopTech fronts, stock rears), and if I can still boil the fluid, i'll go up to the competitions and see how that goes.
You could almost run the lapping day pads full time on the street if you had to.... you might try the competitions and see if they are livable for a drive to the track... however, I would say that you ought to invest in a couple tools, like a rear piston tool, a caliper spreader, and a rechargeable impact gun, and just make it less painful to change out to the track pads when you get there. I can usually do it in 30-45 minutes.... or try just doing the rears at home (that won't get too abused on the street), and then do the (quicker) fronts at the track.
Good luck!!
#12
Mr. Links
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Originally Posted by artowar
Fritz, you're talking about PFCs for non-stock FD brakes, right? I think that they've been out of production on FD sizes for a while...
https://www.rx7club.com/race-car-tech-103/yes-m2-wilwood-13-brake-kit-actually-fits-under-stock-16-fd-wheels-298706/
#13
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I think he's using the wilwood 6 piston brakes. The only real benefit they ever provided me was a thicker pad I only boiled my fluid once and that was with some wilwoods on a lightly modded car. I'm betting the calipers didn't have the thermlock pistons but that still sucks imo. Basically you get what you pay for.
I'd recommend some AP or Brembos.
I'd recommend some AP or Brembos.
#14
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I've had good experience with the CarboTech XP 8's at Roebling Road Raceway.
What CarboTech's were you using, and how long did they last for you, under what type of driving (e.g., daily, weekends only, track only, etc.) ?
I drive my FD about 2-3 times a week. The XP8's are noisy, leave lots of dust, but they are incredible, IMHO, and I've used the Porterfields R4 and R4S's.
:-) neil
What CarboTech's were you using, and how long did they last for you, under what type of driving (e.g., daily, weekends only, track only, etc.) ?
I drive my FD about 2-3 times a week. The XP8's are noisy, leave lots of dust, but they are incredible, IMHO, and I've used the Porterfields R4 and R4S's.
:-) neil
Last edited by M104-AMG; 12-04-05 at 05:28 PM.
#15
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Originally Posted by Mahjik
Unless something has changed, John is using a non-stock brake kit:
https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.php?t=298706
https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.php?t=298706
#16
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Originally Posted by Mahjik
Which model? They have several versions with different coefficients of friction... Most of their higher track models have a higher coefficient of friction than most other pads on the market (at least the ones confident enough to post that information about their product).
#17
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Originally Posted by RussTypeS
XP-8 I think, whatever ones g-force recommends, they lasted less then a weekend at Sebring...
IMHO, you need to treat them as consumeables, esp. on a heavy-braking circuit, and if you're also hard on them.
:-) neil
#18
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Originally Posted by RussTypeS
XP-8 I think, whatever ones g-force recommends, they lasted less then a weekend at Sebring...
Well, the XP8's are the lowest track pad they make. They are basically an entry level track pad. Judging by your site, you don't look to be a novice on the track. So, it's no wonder you burned through them. I would recommend at least the XP10 (or XP11's if they still make them) for experienced track drivers.
#19
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Originally Posted by Fritz Flynn
I think he's using the wilwood 6 piston brakes. The only real benefit they ever provided me was a thicker pad I only boiled my fluid once and that was with some wilwoods on a lightly modded car. I'm betting the calipers didn't have the thermlock pistons but that still sucks imo. Basically you get what you pay for.
I'd recommend some AP or Brembos.
I'd recommend some AP or Brembos.
Since I've been really happy with the Porterfield R4 pads in every other respect I think I may just stay with them and just remember to bring TWO sets of brake pads for a two day event at a track that is hard on brakes.
I would like to try AP or Brembo brakes... but that would mean buying new rims and tires... I really like that my current system fits under stock wheels.
Thanks for the advice everyone! Very helpful as usual.
-John
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