owen is fat

tinner, did you want the center bore diameter or the size of the rotor hat inner diameter?
I have a set of new front rotors sitting here and can get you those measurements pretty easily.

Black91n/a

On the wilwood and AP sites they have to scale cross section drawings of the calipers, so you can make a cross sectional scale drawing of the rotor and caliper arrangement to check wheel and hub clearance. All you have to do is print it to scale and then attach it to some cardboard and hold it up againt the wheel and the hub to see if it'll fit. You could do this with a number of different rotor offsets and sizes, along with different calipers to get the absolute biggest size possible.

tinner

iTrader: (2)

Both would be great, thanks!

Bern

Thanks Carl! I was just trying to get a feel for the speeds you were talking about. Also I see you car is a little on the heavy side. I'd love to see a pic of the current set-up.

-Bern

Bern

Very nice set-up up your friend has there!

tims

Carl,
I believe the there is only one of two part numbers for the Billet six piston Wilwoods. rotors can be interchanged. Caliper could be relocated, but a flat piece of steel with four holes in it is alot easier to make. the whole setup should only be $1000 to $1200. I think Paul charged me like $1400. I have not had any problems and the performance is phenomenal. I am going to try to make the enduro at Sears Point in September(or maybe october) you could try it for yourself if you want. I'll check for the part numbers this week. lots of options but bore sizes are the same. Calipers http://www.wilwood.com/Products/001-...-SL6/index.asp Hats http://www.wilwood.com/Products/003-...GTSF/index.asp rotors http://www.wilwood.com/Products/002-...2-GT/index.asp

Carl Byck

Tim, I think it is a no brainer to duplicate your set-up, based on the caliper drawings I think I can accomodate up to a 13" rotor. I gather the links you provided are to the specific part families? How far did you go in your efforts to find a master cylinder(or dual) that would be compatible with the OEM booster? Is it simply a matter of custom plumbing, mounting, or what was the problem? I assume Wilwood can identify the optimum bore, and stroke on the MC for a particular set-up. I want to get this done sooner rather than later, so whatever help you can give me is much appreciated by me, and I am sure the whole community. I guess the only other info I would need is the thickness of the adapter plate.

Can someone let me know what the OEM MC bore, and stroke are?
I will get recomendations from Wilwood on rotor type, you mentioned the rotors could be larger than what you got, I assume you did not get the 13s. If you PM me a good time to call, I can check in on the brakes, and talk with you about the ECU as well. Thanks, Carl

tims

Carl,
I bought the kit from Paul at K2RD and he developed it so you could use it on a stock FC, so it had to clear the stock wheels. The chart from Wilwood should give the max rotor diameter. the MC problem was that with the power booster you need a larger diameter MC. There were not alot of options to replace the original. the 929 and 3rd gen are slightly larger, but since these cars were not mass production models the cost is high just to test. I felt it was easier to convert to the manual brakes. I used the kit with the OEM MC and it worked fine but with heavy or quick pressure the tires would lock up easily. basicly you could operate the brakes with your big toe and almost no pressure. the problem is tires are expensive and a couple flat spotted tires will buy that manual brake conversion. There really is no perfect MC size. with the booster you can use the larger MC as the engine helps to push the pedal. with the manual brake setup I use a 3/4" bore for the front and a 15/16" for the rear, but I have reversed this with ggod results as well. smaller diameter=less pressure to operate the brakes and more pedal travel, larger diameter=more pressure and less travel. If I was to make this "kit" from scratch I would make an adapter from plywood and washers to get the spacing right then make it from aluminum or steel, depending on thickness. An eyeball measurement of mine looks to be around 1/2". if your good with geometry and a tape measure you could do it all on paper. call me anytime after 4pm I'll PM you the number

tims

Carl,
I finally sat down and came up with the wilwood part numbers for the setup on my car. there are alot of options but this is what I am using and it works great.

Part numbers:

Calipers: Billet superlite 6: 120-5960-RS and 120-5961-RS
Mounting Hat: 170-0176 plus mounting bolt kit 230-0150
Rotor: HD fixed rotor 12.19" dia x 1.25" thick: 160-3872

This setup will then need the adapter(commonly called a "dog Bone"). again I would use some plywood or thick balsa wood to make a pattern then have it made from aluminum or steel. I thought some other people here might want the info so I thought I would add it to this original post. good luck

ajhehr

Could you double check the part # for the rotor hats... those show to be a 5x4.75 bolt patern?

Thanks
Aaron

ajhehr

Also carl, tims... have you given thoughts to pad choice?

tims

sorry about that I got the bolt pattern wrong in the conversion. 170-0635 rotor would work fine, and has the correct bolt pattern. I currently use the Polymatrix B brake pad, but there are many different choices depending on usage.

KeloidJonesJr.

iTrader: (8)

Project Mu?

owen is fat

great info tim, thanks for sharing!

snub disphenoid

I also noticed that Greddy sells a GREX brake kit for the FC, but it says that it's for the rear. I wouldn't understand why you would ONLY sell a 330mm 4-piston kit for the rear, though. I'm interested in what you end up running, as I'll be going from 160 to 300 to hopefully eventually 400+hp on my track-driven FC

http://greddy.com/prod_brakes.htm

owen is fat

/\/\/\ thats probably just a misprint... theyre more likely a front kit.

DriveFast7

iTrader: (1)

Do you know how much larger that stock, and we're talking larger diameter not thickness, right?

Does the caliper need to be spaced out more or does it still use stock mounting?

How much better does it cool and how do you like it?

Thanks,
Brad

tims

The AWR brake setup is for an E-production car, and the rules make you use the same as stock brakes. So the rotors are stock diameter and maybe slightly thicker and work with the OEM calipers which also must be used per the rules of EP. It really would not be considered a big brake kit. It was mainly developed to be a lighter alternative to the stock rotors

Carl Byck

Tim, turns out, I had a bad ECU, AND a cracked rear iron (1.7 bar of boost road racing....) Anyway, I sent your E6K to Haltech and had it completely upgraded to all new software, chip set etc. I will be returning it shortly. Turns out I did not make the race after re-wiring the whole car with BDC, car fired up and ran well, but an invisible crack in the iron ended our day. I actually blew it up on the track last year, but the crack was so small that you had to get the engine up to ~180 before it leaked. @100 psi @ 150* it did not leak... Oh well, time for a fresh port, big brakes, lighten the car, Aquamist, etc. We have the aquamist pretty much done, and wired to the haltech, so it should be P&P when I get the motor back from BDC. Later, Carl

RX-Heven

iTrader: (1)

They are only like a 1/4" larger diameter but the same thickness just as Tims mentioned.

The fronts do require some machining to the hub and rotor hat to fit. The rears require a bit of grinding on the hub to clear the hat. No modifications to the front or rear calipers is necassary.

The brakes worked great this past weekend. I have new Hoosier S04's 285/30/18 up front and 335/30/18 in the rear on a 3200+ lb fc vert running ~400 rwhp. No fade all weekend. Running blues out back with HT-10's in the front with Motul 600 fluid. Pad choice along with adequate cooling is everything.

IndyFC

Ok I hate to be thread diggin but I have some questions. I'm currently in the middle of prepping my car for time attack/drift/auto-x and some light to moderate highway style racing. I'm swapping in a powerful LS1 engine w/ T-56 six speed and will be making upwards of 550rwhp. The car should weigh in around 2400-2600 when done.

My questions are as follows. The car is an '86 GXL so that means no TII special anything for me, but I'm swapping in a TII rear end. Can I just take all the TII stock suspension and bolt it up to my GXL? I want to be able to use the aftermarket resources for the TII and I figured by swapping in everything TII suspension/brakes wise that I could then upgrade to the aftermarket TII stuff.

Mainly the stuff in question is the Corksport rear upgrade and the AP Racing 6-Pot Front or Endless 6-Pot front. I would also like to upgrade to dual MCs. So if anyone could point me in the right direction as to where to go with this it would be greatly appreciated.

tims

the body shells are the same so all the OEM Mazda parts are interchangeable. manual brake with dual master cylinders is a custom setup and will need to be fabricated. not a hard job for even an amatuer fabricator/welder.

RETed

As amazing as this sounds, your GSL runs the same suspension and brakes as a Turbo II model.
The Turbo II model is basically a GXL model with a turbo engine in it.

BTW, some seller is selling a 13.0" Rotora BBK on eBay starting bid at $1,500...


-Ted

IndyFC

yea I saw that. Was gona buy it but can't seem to find part numbers for pads for the BBK because rotora doesn't offer that kit anymore.

So my GXL is the same as the TII minus the engine eh? Sweet! That means BBK from AP and Corksport here I come.

Now does anyone have any pictures of a Dual MC setup on an FC and what actually needs to be done for this to work properly. I mean is it an actual MC for each end of the car? I want to learn as much as possible about this.

IndyFC

Ok now I'm at a dilema. I'm looking at picking up the Corksport rear and the KVR AP Racing front kit within the next few days. I just can't seem to justify another $2000 for 6pots over 4pots. I mean is it really worth that much more cash for the 6pots?