Suspension for 1st gen?
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Joined: Jun 2014
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From: Illinois
Suspension for 1st gen?
Hey guys!
Coming from racing an Improved Touring VW Scirocco and I picked up a street FB that's bridgeported but not much else. The ultimate goal would be to get back on track with this car, maybe NASA PT or ST. Anyway, I'd like to start getting the car solid and handling well. I was wondering what kind of suspension setup people are running? I've heard of Tokico high pressure'a but not much else. Any feedback would be awesome!
Coming from racing an Improved Touring VW Scirocco and I picked up a street FB that's bridgeported but not much else. The ultimate goal would be to get back on track with this car, maybe NASA PT or ST. Anyway, I'd like to start getting the car solid and handling well. I was wondering what kind of suspension setup people are running? I've heard of Tokico high pressure'a but not much else. Any feedback would be awesome!
Hi Danny, Welcome to the crazy world of racing an FB. Your sig says you have an 87 GXL and you have been a member since 2014 so I assume you know the drill round these parts.
There are several threads in the 1st gen archive section that address handling, I would start there.
Depends on rules and your own fabrication ability but right off that bat I will say you should look into a panhard bar setup, tokico blues or illuminas, as much front camber as you can.
There are several threads in the 1st gen archive section that address handling, I would start there.
Depends on rules and your own fabrication ability but right off that bat I will say you should look into a panhard bar setup, tokico blues or illuminas, as much front camber as you can.
Baaahahahahahaaa Welcome to the madness!
So, my recommendation is, pick a class and a budget.
With the Bridgeport you'd be better off dyno re-classing for all NASA classes.
If you've been racing, you already know you can dump lot's of money quick and easy.
If you get a stock port motor you could have a more economic approach. PTF you can get the SCCA Pro 7 suspension and be competitive in both. Not much power, still very fun.
You could also get better shocks (koni) for better handling in PTF.
Moving up to PTE, still need stock port, but you can do most everything to the suspension excepted you'd keep the stock 4 link & wats link (there can be trade offs in performance to get a tri link and panhard bar.. ITA you can have about the same car, but less power (carb) though the tri link and panhard bar is ok.
PTD. All of the E build, all the performance goodys and tri link. Still stock port but you get to lose weight.
Next step in nasa is Dyno re-class.
SCCA Tri link set up works well but you cant go to low and they have been known to break.
A true Tri link done right would have a hole cut in the floor and mount inside the car. This pushes you UP in class for both SCCA and NASA.
Now if you want to stay with the stock rear 4 link. There are ways to make it handle OK. To limit the rear suspension bind.
One think I that rings true for everyone. If you can learn how to drive a 1st gen, with the 4 link, fast. YOU CAN DRIVE PETTY MUCH ANYTHING FAST.
So, my recommendation is, pick a class and a budget.
With the Bridgeport you'd be better off dyno re-classing for all NASA classes.
If you've been racing, you already know you can dump lot's of money quick and easy.
If you get a stock port motor you could have a more economic approach. PTF you can get the SCCA Pro 7 suspension and be competitive in both. Not much power, still very fun.
You could also get better shocks (koni) for better handling in PTF.
Moving up to PTE, still need stock port, but you can do most everything to the suspension excepted you'd keep the stock 4 link & wats link (there can be trade offs in performance to get a tri link and panhard bar.. ITA you can have about the same car, but less power (carb) though the tri link and panhard bar is ok.
PTD. All of the E build, all the performance goodys and tri link. Still stock port but you get to lose weight.
Next step in nasa is Dyno re-class.
SCCA Tri link set up works well but you cant go to low and they have been known to break.
A true Tri link done right would have a hole cut in the floor and mount inside the car. This pushes you UP in class for both SCCA and NASA.
Now if you want to stay with the stock rear 4 link. There are ways to make it handle OK. To limit the rear suspension bind.
One think I that rings true for everyone. If you can learn how to drive a 1st gen, with the 4 link, fast. YOU CAN DRIVE PETTY MUCH ANYTHING FAST.
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